tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-57571774366145133422024-03-05T10:27:06.271+01:00Alpengeist's TV (and other stuff) Repair BlogAlpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.comBlogger69125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-50680714355399687712020-11-26T20:53:00.004+01:002023-09-19T22:30:33.728+02:00Philips 46PFL9706 - random stripes and blocks in image - defect TCON resonator X200<p>This Philips has a unique backlight with more than 200 LEDs in a tight matrix. I generally like the high-end Philipses from the early 2010s. The good panels, decent sound, and Ambilight on three sides make them attractive products. The seller mentioned random stripes when it started cold, and after warm-up, the device worked ok.</p><p>When I fired it up, the image I got made me go "Ah, crap, panel fault or backlight is broken".</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwI4E6DT4EiqU-5aCAw3WNzvIckqampzeKW0GnAX3tChW7p3FBW6asqlMCC1QOmzX_SruMxj4uW87aJz0fvHpG8MDsiYOVh5NcySWS7sFUixY_mV1w4TnuPMoKKWbDWmd-tYzoBsJ7vueR/s2048/tv-12.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwI4E6DT4EiqU-5aCAw3WNzvIckqampzeKW0GnAX3tChW7p3FBW6asqlMCC1QOmzX_SruMxj4uW87aJz0fvHpG8MDsiYOVh5NcySWS7sFUixY_mV1w4TnuPMoKKWbDWmd-tYzoBsJ7vueR/w400-h300/tv-12.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Oa9jp_P0bILdffYtw-C00hrSMXFzXFw2sZlHXxDVt2f5pzkxRrGLsCiYaW_jwh1VCpbpQNW42wryTsIgGk1l1SCIIKBB45HkWRZdW7QemJlmpSux9aPtrgtNlHIg7BQMNPSUhq1MPdFh/s2048/tv-10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Oa9jp_P0bILdffYtw-C00hrSMXFzXFw2sZlHXxDVt2f5pzkxRrGLsCiYaW_jwh1VCpbpQNW42wryTsIgGk1l1SCIIKBB45HkWRZdW7QemJlmpSux9aPtrgtNlHIg7BQMNPSUhq1MPdFh/w400-h300/tv-10.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Not so quick! This backlight is capable of sharp local dimming! So, the mainboard was producing information and the dimming reacted to it. After a while, the patterns changed fundamentally:</p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6wCUHzo5SFDT00CfzpD1USd2TihOaIhizt89SERquLS5wQ5MKinV6nswBiHHff34sKdCaBewlCuXcimJTEQkmt3TaTgCk4Nais3grstHxQkAwk1UQ0ES9uCQ2rSt_Y51ktP30xJUW-gs_/s2048/tv-08.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6wCUHzo5SFDT00CfzpD1USd2TihOaIhizt89SERquLS5wQ5MKinV6nswBiHHff34sKdCaBewlCuXcimJTEQkmt3TaTgCk4Nais3grstHxQkAwk1UQ0ES9uCQ2rSt_Y51ktP30xJUW-gs_/w400-h300/tv-08.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbIv4Qc6Ewe35XGUlXkEnsWJRFLrqnUpY5sctVL3VekoQXkI7aLW1oQkDWt8nx2AuTexoA5r18h4WNXTAZ6sQ98RxEaIbsgkc_qyzRSiPckpu4LSNZANmvkCSifcvkboZrgWv5BKLerHVy/s2048/tv-07.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbIv4Qc6Ewe35XGUlXkEnsWJRFLrqnUpY5sctVL3VekoQXkI7aLW1oQkDWt8nx2AuTexoA5r18h4WNXTAZ6sQ98RxEaIbsgkc_qyzRSiPckpu4LSNZANmvkCSifcvkboZrgWv5BKLerHVy/w400-h300/tv-07.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Now, I was convinced that the TCON board was to blame. When pixels are in the wrong place and there is no constant pattern, the TCON is the go-to board.</p><p>After a search in the Iwenzo repair forum, where I am active, it appeared to be a standard fault with this model. The X200 resonator is faulty. Not quite broken, but mechanically unstable. The exact name is <b>C25M000000S001</b>. I bought it from Farnell's branch <b>develektro.com</b>, which is for private customers. Farnell only accepts business customers.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmWuGmFtd0xFS-U1bGxXFRL1x3rkbyczPJiHFLTCg6Za2cfPn2_3u0i76buJPGP4NY5z1Ei4Mg1w30D5NXoIs_IiT1js16PbJY1R7NLhragMey_FceUQN_UhjUpMcgcJfWeNpBVW4yBw12/s2048/tv-09.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmWuGmFtd0xFS-U1bGxXFRL1x3rkbyczPJiHFLTCg6Za2cfPn2_3u0i76buJPGP4NY5z1Ei4Mg1w30D5NXoIs_IiT1js16PbJY1R7NLhragMey_FceUQN_UhjUpMcgcJfWeNpBVW4yBw12/w400-h300/tv-09.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>With a preheater plate and hot air, the replacement is a matter of seconds without stressing the board.</p><p>The problem here is that the resonator is specified for 70°. It gets roasted by the chip and after a number of years, it is going to give up.</p><p>And here we are:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMw4JjJVSRkXbp7yBtckkzrgmvr6sTCKaEms3vHFWzfke2ciki-cPxvDSE_hfLh22aIZyb5xd_WH21sMIQXdT7DvwIxfT9gmWZHlToda4cdlceQ_bQU83nHAgJIt2owLUIbhYv_Ar90nWv/s2048/P1090958.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1538" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMw4JjJVSRkXbp7yBtckkzrgmvr6sTCKaEms3vHFWzfke2ciki-cPxvDSE_hfLh22aIZyb5xd_WH21sMIQXdT7DvwIxfT9gmWZHlToda4cdlceQ_bQU83nHAgJIt2owLUIbhYv_Ar90nWv/w640-h480/P1090958.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>The backlight has a minor problem caused by aging, however. In some situations, blocks of LEDs shine through slightly. This is also a known issue and the reason is the warped plane that carries the LEDs. They get a little too close to the diffusor foil. I'll fix that later, as I need to take apart the panel for this.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Update</h3><p>I ruined the moth-eye screen surface. To remove some fingerprints I used a soft microfiber cloth and a mild glass cleaner. That left a grey residue on the surface. After researching a little, the original Philips cleaning liquid is "alcohol-based". So, I put some Isopropanol on the cloth and wiped it again. That did even more damage.</p><p>Philips does not want you to clean the screen! They only supplied a small special cloth with a cleaner to remove single prints. The previous owner just dusted it off and never touched it.</p><p>I was able to get rid of the grey smear with Armor All and meticulous polishing. It is pitch black again, but it has none of the anti-glare properties anymore.</p>Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-67588480291871417612020-06-02T14:29:00.009+02:002023-03-16T00:46:13.852+01:00All I know about the Philips QFU mainboard problemsI have had my share of experiments and frustration with the Philips QFU mainboards from the xxx7 (QFU 1.1, 2.1 for some 6xx7) and xxx8 (QFU 1.2) series. I am going to continuously collect everything I know here in this post.<div><br /></div><h1 style="text-align: left;">General architecture</h1><div>The main Fusion CPU is actually two CPUs in one plus the Trident graphics device and therefore also called a system on a chip (SOC):</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>The boot processor, which runs on 3.3v standby voltage. It reads its bootscript (the standby software) from the <b>SPI EEPROM</b> 7CT3, which is a M25P05 512kBit type.</li></ul></div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>The main processor requires the 12V supply to be up and is fed by a number of DCDC converters. Its software is stored in the <b>8 GBit NAND flash rom</b>. This flash does not only contain the main software (the linux file system with the apps on it), but also the model-specific security keys and the MAC address. This is why a binary image from one board might not work properly on another.</li><li>There are two types of Fusion. The 120 and the 240. The exact difference I do not know. The 240 seems to be used in the higher models (7xxx and up).</li></ul></div><h1 style="text-align: left;">The original sins</h1><h2 style="text-align: left;">Undersized cooling</h2><div>Philips dramatically undersized the cooling of the Fusion processor. They stuffed too many functions onto the chip and did not take care of sufficient cooling. The Fusion 240 seem to have a larger heat sink with proper spring-loaded mounting posts, which stick through the board. The 120ies have sloppy small sinks glued with a heat pad. I am not 100% sure about the sink sizes though, so far I've seen larger sinks on QFU1.1 mainly.</div><div><br /></div><div>The back cover is so close to the heat sink, it almost sits on it. The engineers thought that a little convection cooling would do the job. Absolutely ridiculous. </div><div><br /></div><div>Cases have been reported where the sink fell off by itself because the pad glue failed. This indicates that there were temperatures of at least 80°C. When I remove the sinks I use a heat gun and gloves. The pad glue gives up and goes soft at about 80°.</div><div><br /></div><div>In a proper PC architecture, such a chip would sport a large cooler with a fan on it.</div><div><br /></div><div>The larger sinks seem to have the side effect of grilling the SPI boot EEPROM, which might lose its first data block and render the TV dead. More about that further down.</div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Warped QFU1.1 boards</h2><div><br /></div><div>The boards of the QFU1.1 series are so thin that they warp around the CPU. Under the CPU the board is flat and around the CPU it bends up and down.</div><div><br /></div><div>This makes <font color="#3367d6"><b>any attempt of reflowing or reballing futile</b></font>. The chip will never sit flat. I recently reflowed a QFU1.1. When the chip settled, it touched the board at one corner and lifted up a little on the opposite corner. Of course this was a total failure and the board is toast now.</div><div>Sometimes during my reflow experiments, the chip even jumped off the board with a snap due to the tension.</div><div><br /></div><div>The QFU2.1 are better in that respect, but they also tend not to be flat around the CPU.</div><div><br /></div><h1 style="text-align: left;">Known failures</h1><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>TV does not start and blinks 2x red after a couple of minutes. This is the classic. The 2x blink is reported by the boot processor, which observed that the main processor failed to boot. CPU or NAND failure.</li><li>TV randomly crashes after some time. CPU failure.</li><li>TV produces distorted image with striping or noise. Image freezes. CPU failure.</li><li>TV does nothing at all, not even blink. This can be a case of a corrupted SPI EEPROM.</li></ul><h2 style="text-align: left;">The infamous 2x blinks - the "K" fault</h2></div><div>I've seen many of those. When reading the log through the UART service port (see <a href="https://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2017/06/reading-philips-tv-logs-with-usb-uart.html" target="_blank">this post</a> how to do that), the log abruptly ends with the letter K. I described this fault in <a href="https://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2018/12/philips-55pfl6158-2-blinks-qfu-12-cpu.html" target="_blank">this post</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div>My suspicion is that the CPU loses communication with the NAND flash. This makes the diagnose, whether the CPU or the NAND is to blame, difficult. In most cases though, the CPU is the culprit.</div><div><br /></div><h1 style="text-align: left;">The only feasible attempt for a "fix" (hack)</h1><div><b>The Fusion CPU needs to be heated up to 180°C max in a controlled fashion. <font color="#d52c1f">The solder must not melt</font></b><font color="#d52c1f">!</font> As explained above, this can ruin the board due to the warping and tension under the CPU. </div><div><br /></div><div>I use an IR6500 reflow workstation for it, which allows me to use a controlled temperature curve. </div><div><br /></div><div>The next best method is a <b>pre-heated oven and a digital thermometer</b> with a type K remote sensor, which can be attached to the CPU. Those devices only cost a few bucks. This allows for proper monitoring of the temperature since ovens made for households are not precise. </div><div><br /></div><div>With any method, <b>cover the plastic parts and electrolytic capacitors in tin foil</b>. It is not strictly necessary to cover the other parts. They can handle it. The temperature is kept below the solder melting point, therefore there is no danger of dropping parts from the bottom side. With the rework station I only use a square tin foil mask around the CPU, just enough to cover the CI-slot.</div><div><br /></div><div>The solder balls under the CPU do not fully melt until 235° is reached on the top of the CPU. This chip is thick and needs plenty of heating to come off the board.</div><div><br /></div><div>I would rate the success rate of the baking technique at 50:50. It is like a coin toss. I have had a few successes in a row, but also losing streaks.</div><div><br /></div><h1 style="text-align: left;">The mysterious NAND flash</h1><div>I tried a to swap the NAND a few times and never succeeded. In <a href="https://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2018/07/philips-42pfl7008-qfu-12-defect-nvram.html" target="_blank">this post</a> I documented the tools I use.</div><div><br /></div><div>In a recent case I copied the original NAND image onto a new chip, soldered it in, and the UART log was gone. After putting back the original NAND, the log still was silent. Something must have happened in between the two actions and I never found out what. The NANDs behaved perfectly fine on the programmer tool and the verification against the image file succeeded. I have not damaged them. My suspicion is that the heat from the bottom preheater had triggered a defect in the CPU or on the board, which brings us back to square one.</div><div><br /></div><div>I experienced this twice. Only worked on the NAND, and yet, something else broke down. The UART lines are fed directly from the CPU. There is nothing in between. Thus, if nothing is put out there, the CPU is to blame. The service manual says that if there is no log, a communication problem with the NAND could be the reason. I don't understand that, why would the boot processor require the NAND? However, it fits the observation.</div><div><br /></div><div>There were reports that the NAND image from an identical QFU platform can work. I cannot confirm that as I even failed with the image from the same device. Also, the board-specific parameters and security keys will not match. You might not have network access, and the CI slot might not work after that. The service manuals describe in detail how to reconfigure a generic service board. The necessary tools and software are not available to normal people.</div><div><br /></div><div>All that brings me to the conclusion that <b>tampering with the NAND is also futile and not worth the time</b>.</div><div><br /></div><h1 style="text-align: left;">The boot SPI EEPROM</h1><div>This memory chip holds the boot software for the boot (stand-by) processor.</div><div><br /></div><div>I had only <a href="https://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2017/05/philips-46pfl8007-qfu11e-la-no-standby.html" target="_blank">one case</a> where the boot SPI EEPROM was corrupted. I've programmed a few of those for other people. It seems that this is more common in the QFU1.1 boards where the heat sink is covering the chip. It probably doesn't take too much heat, either.</div><div><br /></div><div>The fix is very easy if you have a programmer yourself or know someone who has. Go to <a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B2aQfvOPwQFsUjk2bmhYRnpIMm8?resourcekey=0-9CieaNOqplElzIZs60_MHA&usp=sharing" target="_blank">this link</a> for a collection of my tested boot images.</div>Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-88955647337711653082019-04-29T22:41:00.004+02:002020-10-03T16:12:10.594+02:00How to check if an AS15 chip is working okAn AS15 is nothing but a 14 + 1 channel buffer. 15 reference voltages at the inputs are buffered for higher currents on the outputs. A resistor ladder is connected to a reference voltage source and the AS15 picks up each of the ladder voltages and presents it at the outputs.<br />
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The typical image symptoms of a defect AS15 chip on TCON boards are:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>solarization - colors, especially darker ones are pink or green, for example</li>
<li>faded colors</li>
</ul>
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Many TVs with AUO panels built around 2009 have this defect.<br />
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First quick test: does it get hot? It must not. According to the datasheet, its idle current is 10-20 mA. That's not enough to heat up a chip. The last TCON I fixed reduced its total idle current by 150mA with a new chip.<br />
<br />
Besides apparent overheating, there is a technique to verify the chip's performance.<br />
Locate testpoints named VGA or VGMA, numbered 1 to 14 or up to 22. Measure those against ground. They must produce a consecutive sequence of decreasing voltage of around 15 down to 0. If there are "holes" or big jumps in between, the chip is broken.<br />
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However, the exact values vary between panels. There is no rule.<br />
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Also, locate the VGMAREF test point of the reference voltage. A typical voltage level there is 15.6V. I had a couple of defect TCONs where VGMA0 measured slightly higher than 15.6V. Apart from that everything looked ok. This is not possible in a working configuration! The reason is the AS15 leaking voltage to the inputs from its power supply rail.<br />
<br />
Note that some TCONs have 0V holes in the testpoint sequence because they only produce 14 or 18 voltages for 22 channels. Those TCONs have solder pads for up to two 4xOPAs, which are the buffers for voltages #15 to #22. Those are not always populated. The panels are wired to pick the active outputs accordingly. You must trace the origin of the testpoint voltages whether they lead to the AS15 or to the missing OPAs.<br />
<br />Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-12954397563541679472019-03-22T11:19:00.001+01:002021-08-09T15:56:07.563+02:00Onkyo TX-NR 5009 - defect main relay STD-S-109DMR2 - switching itself off - no sound - no imageI have already fixed an 809 and a 515 recently. The 809 had the famous DSP problem and a reflow of the chip fixed it. The 515 had a defect main relay.<br />
<br />
I have been using the 809 for a while. It replaced the <a href="https://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2017/03/marantz-sr7007-not-starting-rapidly.html">Marantz SR7007</a>, because its spacial sound representation was much more impressive.<br />
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When I saw the former top range 5009 on eBay I just had to have it. The seller said that it did not produce any sound. Thus, I was confident to find a familiar fault. I was wrong.<br />
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When I plugged it in cold straight from the box it started with a strange rattling noise from one of the relay. That couldn't be right. A check of the software versions showed that the DSP was ok. Good.<br />
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A few moments later - KLACK - the mains fuse triggered. This was reproducible. I unplugged the huge analog transformer and the fuse stayed on. A relay was acting up though. So, this relay switched the transformer on and off in a too quick succession. This triggered the fuse due to the inrush current.<br />
<br />
First I suspected a defect relay. However, with time and warm-up the problem disappeared. I went ahead, connected the TV and got no image. Not even the Onkyo logo. Sound from analog and optical inputs was basically ok, albeit a little too silent. The HDMI input and output seemed to be completely dead. My PC did not recognize it as a sound device via HDMI.<br />
<br />
So it had to be the HDMI board, which controls and digitally processes everything in this device. That's intimidating to begin with. So let's focus on the basics first. What improves with increasing temperatures? Capacitors! Although the measurements of the various DC supplies looked fine, I pulled off one of the SMD electrolytics and its ESR was abysmal!<br />
<br />
All of those suckers had to go. Seven super low ESR Nichicon HD took their place. I have plenty of them in stock specifically for Onkyo HDMI board rework.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1dqkS1dyoXtFGyh5xhHHXEIk1g2B3wLKF8zEk6M9zn0HBKLF5xFwJrWJMHEdyORFZFHzSLMHdC1rrPfXeOdvVh50sIYBypIH1eLPEazMMr6j0RsaJAXi6V9YkSOjx7isiQSdp2j0KYo7Q/s1600/20190321_224728.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1110" data-original-width="1480" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1dqkS1dyoXtFGyh5xhHHXEIk1g2B3wLKF8zEk6M9zn0HBKLF5xFwJrWJMHEdyORFZFHzSLMHdC1rrPfXeOdvVh50sIYBypIH1eLPEazMMr6j0RsaJAXi6V9YkSOjx7isiQSdp2j0KYo7Q/s640/20190321_224728.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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On the top side I mounted two heatsinks on the DSP (right corner) and on one image processor to keep those two under better working conditions. Five caps had to be replaced there.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr4klIPkG4vSvHpauLl3B07GzsUopVyM6mtra482WY7CN_YqF7A8uVL3ZOt2dsEi-7Zar8GcjJnY-g_psxNGdONW4z0gIWgxtbTFFOPL-8uT_JJKGO4PbfG27eA5Kmi4Qdu4zzP_aqmOrM/s1600/20190321_235732.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="787" data-original-width="1049" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr4klIPkG4vSvHpauLl3B07GzsUopVyM6mtra482WY7CN_YqF7A8uVL3ZOt2dsEi-7Zar8GcjJnY-g_psxNGdONW4z0gIWgxtbTFFOPL-8uT_JJKGO4PbfG27eA5Kmi4Qdu4zzP_aqmOrM/s640/20190321_235732.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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After putting the board back in the image was still missing. What the heck? A factory reset and the monster was good to go!<br />
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The 5009 is a huge piece of hardware and on a much higher level than the cheaper ones. The sound compared to the 809 is a lot smoother and more natural. Onkyo has put more effort into the digital domain, obviously, because the analog amplifiers are identical, with a little more juice in the power section.<br />
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<h3>
Update - Relay Trouble</h3>
<div>
<br /></div>
The receiver worked fine for a while and one evening it went <b>pop! </b>and the sound was gone. Everything else was normal. I noticed that it cooled down and my immediate suspicion was that the main transformer had switched off.<br />
<br />
The main relay died. Its coil was open. What is it with those Onkyos that their relays die like flies?<br />
<br />
Finding a replacement turned out to be difficult. The original part in the 5009 is a STD-S10DMR2. Notice the 2 at the end! Smaller Onkyos use the SDT-S-109LMR2.<br />
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Both types are designed with a reduced power consumption in mind. Let's look at the data sheet:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0bDv9AJG9WHoqJY1yhYDRGCtQutKbv86Hzi__1_wzkHhXhMhyL9Y8VfMU8oOdWybsnwlRyIRKjR9dYNyznQzlPP00HyN_Y3d5f90S80Rw1XIjDqvNH8ys90E-Yj7BLVPSgZfMqZGLyXku/s1600/STD.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="712" data-original-width="629" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0bDv9AJG9WHoqJY1yhYDRGCtQutKbv86Hzi__1_wzkHhXhMhyL9Y8VfMU8oOdWybsnwlRyIRKjR9dYNyznQzlPP00HyN_Y3d5f90S80Rw1XIjDqvNH8ys90E-Yj7BLVPSgZfMqZGLyXku/s1600/STD.jpg" /></a></div>
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In forums I read that the voltage is too high. I soldered in a resistor with the specified value of the coil and measured more than 10V until the speaker relays clicked. Then it went down to a little more than 9V.<br />
<br />
It was impossible to find the original DMR2 part, only the DMR. Also, the 9V types were unobtainable except from Aliexpress. On eBay I ordered 12V STD-DMR. In the meantime I found a spare 10A 12V relay for testing. After <b>adjusting R9109</b> it worked fine, the receiver is back alive. The voltage is now between 11.5 and 10.5 volts.<br />
<br />
So, the relays are not plug and play when you replace the low power with the normal types! <b>You must adjust R9109 to bring the voltage to the proper range</b>. Also, take notice if it is a LMR (5A) or DMR (10A) type! The size is the same, so, if you are planning to put some on stock, the DMR will fit all receivers.<br />
<br />
The DMRs have a higher inrush current rating of TV-8. In that sense, they are quite unique. During my search for a replacement I only found TV-5 ratings.<br />
<br />
I think that the low-power DMR2 / LMR2 relays were garbage and Onkyo hit them with a little too much voltage. It does not surprise me that I could not find any of those types. Only the normal ones.<br />
<br />
Surprisingly, only the main relay got too much voltage. The ones for the secondary transformers were all inside the spec.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Update Dec 2019</h3>
<br />
Still running almost every day without problems. I love this machine! The sound is smooth, colorful and detailed. The distance to the 809 that I've used for a while before is substantial.<br />
I have sourced relais with the TV-8 inrush current rating in the meantime. So far my replacement relais is working fine, so no hurry there.<div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Update August 2021</h3><div><br /></div><div>Still running perfectly fine. Besides the 55 inch Panasonic plasma TV this repair is giving me the most joy.<br />
<div>
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</div>Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com45tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-14635189892475096402019-03-14T17:01:00.002+01:002020-06-02T14:39:52.659+02:00More IR6500 tweaks - silencing fan - fixing flipped polarity of thermocouple socket - adjusting temperature offset - run bottom heater independently<h3>
Silence the fan</h3>
<div>
The fan is annoyingly loud. It is a line voltage fan, so you cannot just put some PC fan in there. The remedy is simple. I used four rubber mounts I had left over from my last PC build. I dumped the grill. It is unnecessary.</div>
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<div>
What a relief!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEQTuTRk0nTwxisr7EzvYjB2FhhManTToDz9HUxX-rIVJMV4jTimO7Y2QH7i-53hkQTo6kmwa3VQlTmwBKecdIxIiz2AitKLMzQMY12VLFNk_eEkfdeRkmAJwAuQyLPPGuFhhhnZpuJejx/s1600/IMG_2173.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEQTuTRk0nTwxisr7EzvYjB2FhhManTToDz9HUxX-rIVJMV4jTimO7Y2QH7i-53hkQTo6kmwa3VQlTmwBKecdIxIiz2AitKLMzQMY12VLFNk_eEkfdeRkmAJwAuQyLPPGuFhhhnZpuJejx/s400/IMG_2173.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Non-standard K-Type socket polarity</h3>
This device is full of surprises. I damaged the original thermocouple recently and plugged in another K-Type I had lying around. Surprise! The temperature figures were going down instead of up when I heated it.<br />
<br />
Why was that? For what reason ever, they managed to flip the polarity of the K-Type socket. It is non-standard! The original sensor also had the polarity wrong. Dafug?<br />
<br />
It is easy to fix though. Just open the bottom cover, unscrew the wires and put them back on in reverse.<br />
<br />
To make positioning of the sensor possible without fiddling with tape, I bough an adjustable holder <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LY-TS1-Omega-K-Type-TC-Magnet-Thermocouple-Sensor-Temperature-Wire-Holder-Jig-for-BGA-Rework/32854559410.html">HERE</a>. The integrated magnet is too weak. I glued a powerful neodym on top of it. This thing sticks!<br />
<br />
Very nice, sensitive, yet a little fragile sensors are <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Omega-K-Type-Thermocouple-sensor-temperature-Wire-for-BGA-reworking-soldering-station/32852784522.html">THESE</a>. They need a readjustment of the controller, which I will address next.<br />
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My sensor setup looks like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghaBDkgnBu0W-zjDLMO-IPLvJkh5HBViURHJEw5jhBKWT9j1e6vUdqr3f4dEo343NT4QsPeU3E-xin8xwVQfxqcLn1t52TjyXRXMn-R8073p5ljs3NDGwqSrHoYH4HNluTT15ppS6MSCLe/s1600/IMG_2172.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghaBDkgnBu0W-zjDLMO-IPLvJkh5HBViURHJEw5jhBKWT9j1e6vUdqr3f4dEo343NT4QsPeU3E-xin8xwVQfxqcLn1t52TjyXRXMn-R8073p5ljs3NDGwqSrHoYH4HNluTT15ppS6MSCLe/s640/IMG_2172.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Adjusting temperature offset</h3>
<br />
The new sensors were off by a few degrees and I investigated possibilities to fix this. Thankfully there is a decent manual available for the controller. The manual that came with the IR6500 is utter useless.<br />
<br />
It works like this:<br />
<ul>
<li>Measure the temperature in boiling water to get the difference to a reference My new sensor was 6°C off in reference to 100°C.</li>
<li>Press PAR/SET and hold until the controller switches to configuration mode. You will see some text instead of the usual temperature reading.</li>
<li>Press PAR/SET until OFSt appears.</li>
<li>Use the arrow keys to offset the difference.</li>
<li>Press PAR/SET until the normal display returns.</li>
</ul>
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<br />
<h3>
Run bottom heater independently</h3>
<br />
It always annoyed me that it wasn't possible to use the preheater alone, without running a program. I like to have the bottom heater at its max temperature and the board pre-heated before I even start the reflow process.<br />
<br />
It is easy. All you need is three wires and a toggle switch.<br />
<br />
The bottom controller's terminals 4 and 5 output the control voltage for the heater power relay. Terminal 5 goes straight to the relay. Terminal 4 is looped through the main controller's terminal 7, which gets connected to terminal 6 when a program starts. Terminal 6 goes to the heater relay.<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Remove the wire between main controller terminal 6 and the bottom heater switch.</li>
<li>Wire the toggle switch to choose between terminal 4 of the bottom controller and terminal 6 on the main controller. The common wire goes to the heater relay.</li>
</ul>
<div>
In ON position the bottom heater controller works independent from the main controller. With the temp set to 300 I get around 110°C on the upside of the boards.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVF_SDMloEK2TMLNpwLlEpsqUGbioEzAerX1Vk81NpYx4geH8c0bCsKRRNMqTEKRDqRE3ahv7K-zBSBwE6yzEqYa38fvgug_THNHxCEeK0VRDqfTwU0vyOpesC_W63hmdq_zleW6e1P2m1/s1600/IMG_2174.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVF_SDMloEK2TMLNpwLlEpsqUGbioEzAerX1Vk81NpYx4geH8c0bCsKRRNMqTEKRDqRE3ahv7K-zBSBwE6yzEqYa38fvgug_THNHxCEeK0VRDqfTwU0vyOpesC_W63hmdq_zleW6e1P2m1/s400/IMG_2174.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-48121919906012163362019-02-23T14:27:00.001+01:002019-02-23T14:27:19.179+01:00Pimping the IR6500 with an Elstein RFS80 top heaterI have tried to solder the CPU of Philips QFU TV boards twice and failed, because the temperature distribution of the top heater was so bad that the chip sank in at one edge and got lifted up at the diagonally opposite edge. All the tedious reballing work in vain! My suspicion is that the top heater of the IR6500 is rubbish.<br />
<br />
On eBay I found a seller who offers a Made in Germany Elstein RFS80 heater: <a href="https://www.ebay.de/itm/ELSTEIN-RFS80-400w-230v-IR-TOP-HEATER-WITH-REFLECTOR/330764961659">https://www.ebay.de/itm/ELSTEIN-RFS80-400w-230v-IR-TOP-HEATER-WITH-REFLECTOR/330764961659</a><br />
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It also comes with a reflector, which will help to concentrate the heat even better.<br />
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So I set off to mount this thing into my station.<br />
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You can tell already from the way the heating wires are positioned that Elstein had put more thought into this. Everything is arranged around the center whereas in the original heater the energy is wasted in places where you never need it. Moreover, the surface is not even.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGO1c1p1YVNIBYkGBlJ8As-ZodVWoF1wol93kkDXBL5sPNaK8YEVmJME9o7-cBCoXOCEabJvQfhyd4XESq_-dTxizRsLqHsXOCvItF_lf37gM2d5aT4zJEu4fk24NwbrMw6wubv9r6i7XM/s1600/IMG_2161.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGO1c1p1YVNIBYkGBlJ8As-ZodVWoF1wol93kkDXBL5sPNaK8YEVmJME9o7-cBCoXOCEabJvQfhyd4XESq_-dTxizRsLqHsXOCvItF_lf37gM2d5aT4zJEu4fk24NwbrMw6wubv9r6i7XM/s400/IMG_2161.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The new heater fits perfectly well into the original holder bracket. The one angled side with the screw holes needs to be bent to stand upright (right side on the image).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjohvgDEMsisBThEa5tkCvtFEVl0ciQQmGUOOgCyXE2c4JsS3ryVMGmHk8V6M_4WwLnKTvZPcibLvipqeiEDvn_kLK45-Ae1aXJyLL3j68s36oMmcJZC90VFudcg9KzFm6d1D6ZYODTgehj/s1600/IMG_2162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjohvgDEMsisBThEa5tkCvtFEVl0ciQQmGUOOgCyXE2c4JsS3ryVMGmHk8V6M_4WwLnKTvZPcibLvipqeiEDvn_kLK45-Ae1aXJyLL3j68s36oMmcJZC90VFudcg9KzFm6d1D6ZYODTgehj/s400/IMG_2162.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Next, I drilled four holes at the sides of the head and reused the original screws with no problem.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYpRFr9LwlwppclTtjxxFPl_iXn81HXi2tLPOQ4mvehRgoVTrKEQcxHrKKp4qSEQidS78YxEonPHOaubiV_qOqZ-rKSajtrMXByOHd0pLlIzSLOjKqcIG24qnKq6q-HbRG1Db5KiHr0myY/s1600/IMG_2163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYpRFr9LwlwppclTtjxxFPl_iXn81HXi2tLPOQ4mvehRgoVTrKEQcxHrKKp4qSEQidS78YxEonPHOaubiV_qOqZ-rKSajtrMXByOHd0pLlIzSLOjKqcIG24qnKq6q-HbRG1Db5KiHr0myY/s400/IMG_2163.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The silly fan, which is now even more useless than it already was, had to go. With the reflector and the mounting bracket there will not be much heat going into the head. Besides, the air has no place to escape at the bottom, anyway.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCvA1-5eCiehogZX2bkKw5rRE31IhwzaW2YO21zCRRP0OzfQXXFRsAA5yzz1tqHOqn_shrwIrn_OvlBukp9KsqErf31eOOOmWX6Y1JY-5K2XaomJKg1f9qBKg10STthPN6Uez-UvbDkSZO/s1600/IMG_2165.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCvA1-5eCiehogZX2bkKw5rRE31IhwzaW2YO21zCRRP0OzfQXXFRsAA5yzz1tqHOqn_shrwIrn_OvlBukp9KsqErf31eOOOmWX6Y1JY-5K2XaomJKg1f9qBKg10STthPN6Uez-UvbDkSZO/s400/IMG_2165.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5QWMmj2G_QSwmTBcd0Ob2tc2rgClTtyE_yw3kVl2RKZupRk5wah-uiQj0GKLgLlazSv4E6maS_N6hjov7X_vTXAXiQCFq2kKt5lFMWj3WjNT9kXPgEHGymGmMJxIVs7TEQTBHBfvA3cki/s1600/IMG_2167.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5QWMmj2G_QSwmTBcd0Ob2tc2rgClTtyE_yw3kVl2RKZupRk5wah-uiQj0GKLgLlazSv4E6maS_N6hjov7X_vTXAXiQCFq2kKt5lFMWj3WjNT9kXPgEHGymGmMJxIVs7TEQTBHBfvA3cki/s320/IMG_2167.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Done. Besides a slightly off center, everything turned out pretty good. With the new heater, centering needs to be more precise than with the old one because of its shape.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1kuxH8fl3WnOC5eIAybA2h6_3GOm8xGP6dZmoGVj1XwfNx-dRo2en5uUqy0DeKFz6GKK09eh0vtdB8fzqwybqfTfEc6qNvJv0yEVIf-FE3igX-QIH05Pw1aTw5mFSREAfLgoLjg3aifq/s1600/IMG_2166.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1kuxH8fl3WnOC5eIAybA2h6_3GOm8xGP6dZmoGVj1XwfNx-dRo2en5uUqy0DeKFz6GKK09eh0vtdB8fzqwybqfTfEc6qNvJv0yEVIf-FE3igX-QIH05Pw1aTw5mFSREAfLgoLjg3aifq/s400/IMG_2166.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately I broke the temperature sensor recently. As this one has the reverse polarity than the usual ones (they will yield negative temps), I had to order a bunch from China. So, no testing right now. I'll post a followup when the next reballing session takes place.</div>
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<br />Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-17015388318011927862019-01-19T00:17:00.005+01:002024-01-04T19:59:14.909+01:00Building an EDS LeakSeeker 89!The EDS LeakSeeker is a unique device for finding shorts. Watch the videos on YouTube by EDS or check the description on the EDS website. Unfortunately, EDS stopped selling them a few years ago. But there is a way to build one yourself!<br />
<br />
During a routine search after a used LeakSeekers (which don't exist, everybody is keeping them!), I came across <a href="https://store.eccentricworkshop.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14_15">THIS PAGE</a>.<br />
<br />
I wrote a mail to Dave Miga of EDS, who designed this cool device, and after he had confirmed that shipping to Germany is possible, I ordered a board from the above source and a parts kit from Dave.<br />
<br />
This wasn't exactly cheap, but this thing is so unique and useful that I just had to build it! I will enjoy it until the end of my days as I don't think that anybody will design something similar anytime soon.<br />
<br />
And here it is, the assembled LeakSeeker on my bench in a prototype stage. I have yet to find a nice case for it. The original case has no space for 9V battery blocks. I like portable testing tools. The thingy draws less than 100mA when it is testing and 30mA idle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAGyfDlUWQmEki12V8jrE3UcPYWdN5GkmT6weyCxv0Kxqq0RdaAbTypFNXrWEcPvEFrCZ24aia0v3Kd4drOsV8xfthcxS2vWKQRVCcMDxkRbwcGDE2M4CytpVd2PfYuaP6BOB_qystVNjb/s1600/IMG_2147.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAGyfDlUWQmEki12V8jrE3UcPYWdN5GkmT6weyCxv0Kxqq0RdaAbTypFNXrWEcPvEFrCZ24aia0v3Kd4drOsV8xfthcxS2vWKQRVCcMDxkRbwcGDE2M4CytpVd2PfYuaP6BOB_qystVNjb/s640/IMG_2147.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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It is not difficult to build, yet there are two things I (almost) messed up:<br />
<ul>
<li>Make sure that the resistors left to the gain switch are all the way in, otherwise, they might short with the metal case of the switch.</li>
<li>Handle the 0.05 ohms wire carefully and don't bend its legs. The legs are welded to the wire and can break off.</li>
</ul>
<div>
During my first tests, I thought it didn't work because it can take quite a while until it moves from the green LEDs to the yellow and produces a deeper chirping sound.<br />
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Here I am playing around with a testboard that has a 10 Ohms resistor to simulate a defect component. The sensitivity of the LeakSeeker is astounding. I can hear the tonal difference of 1cm distance on a trace in the low gain setting.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfg-Q-unG5tcpVsCXhBqwTeDqNDk_th_9HYNhyexKzhuTDcYyELeCh4Bmamo0OnSGz3OktJ3iYJsqPFXpB-EqTchqZPHIlqEGji2NdfFTyE7vxiZVHH3SraI2I5MoV4nwrE5Jo4NvRyyBU/s1600/IMG_2148.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfg-Q-unG5tcpVsCXhBqwTeDqNDk_th_9HYNhyexKzhuTDcYyELeCh4Bmamo0OnSGz3OktJ3iYJsqPFXpB-EqTchqZPHIlqEGji2NdfFTyE7vxiZVHH3SraI2I5MoV4nwrE5Jo4NvRyyBU/s640/IMG_2148.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<h4>Update 2024: Finally a Home for the LeakSeeker</h4>After a whopping four years, I finally got around and built a case for the LeakSeeker. While browsing through my drawers I also found a long-forgotten 2x9V battery compartment, which fits perfectly.<div>With a slide switch, I can choose the power source. Cool, now it's a no-fuss portable testing device.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005882574522.html" target="_blank">The case can be found on Aliexpress</a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha-PaIN5PfhyphenhyphenEekr4qzJtFe4LO_QYjPYkYX4IkwNVpvnGrinzB1r_cyw8_S9bFmPnuheFNRCG6Q62XkYVf68dmLwRap7EimHIEyO4HISNcVWQRgs3ai56eeH-MIBW5FzciXSo1Bh_KkevB7Cxxz9EaldTIiu-MGW8aJ6RP-X5B4x66z4b-QZPmB3SLQ9yE/s4080/PXL_20240102_235619276.RAW-01.COVER.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3072" data-original-width="4080" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha-PaIN5PfhyphenhyphenEekr4qzJtFe4LO_QYjPYkYX4IkwNVpvnGrinzB1r_cyw8_S9bFmPnuheFNRCG6Q62XkYVf68dmLwRap7EimHIEyO4HISNcVWQRgs3ai56eeH-MIBW5FzciXSo1Bh_KkevB7Cxxz9EaldTIiu-MGW8aJ6RP-X5B4x66z4b-QZPmB3SLQ9yE/s320/PXL_20240102_235619276.RAW-01.COVER.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGzcYBpzP_g8eytuqRkTaR5YK14HZTnYzJPXHWtTnS4_xxIsDkfBB174_Z6dnFnX9-ySKDdsPrJRca6ESmyfVwYVnYTwdFHPCcxMqjpG6J-x4z0KhOk-YP1unmswMQYnz0JV-sqyFnv9ogZ9oDtNSj3KjVnMFNhCdWRKxRIlxQV02rurqKJ_REdEuQmTT0/s4080/PXL_20240102_235831745.RAW-01.COVER.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4080" data-original-width="3072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGzcYBpzP_g8eytuqRkTaR5YK14HZTnYzJPXHWtTnS4_xxIsDkfBB174_Z6dnFnX9-ySKDdsPrJRca6ESmyfVwYVnYTwdFHPCcxMqjpG6J-x4z0KhOk-YP1unmswMQYnz0JV-sqyFnv9ogZ9oDtNSj3KjVnMFNhCdWRKxRIlxQV02rurqKJ_REdEuQmTT0/s320/PXL_20240102_235831745.RAW-01.COVER.jpg" width="241" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBgOD7FyKMSV5wkHMrbPfoQtICM4c3HaXm93ERDbUJZAx-8gogWPhHiBWTjMdAJYacNre0yWuCjwwYq73OXE5Gfx7P-P5MzPZ76OvEadgKTPOm_OP13uFnDLgfSoozPp8Kgi4E42A3bBh8PNeuSCX6Tw4WC8TfbISL4EZ0fodsQ76UJ6y0b0TG4xUurOMl/s4080/PXL_20240103_000002985.RAW-01.COVER.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4080" data-original-width="3072" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBgOD7FyKMSV5wkHMrbPfoQtICM4c3HaXm93ERDbUJZAx-8gogWPhHiBWTjMdAJYacNre0yWuCjwwYq73OXE5Gfx7P-P5MzPZ76OvEadgKTPOm_OP13uFnDLgfSoozPp8Kgi4E42A3bBh8PNeuSCX6Tw4WC8TfbISL4EZ0fodsQ76UJ6y0b0TG4xUurOMl/s320/PXL_20240103_000002985.RAW-01.COVER.jpg" width="241" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><div><br /><div><br />
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This is the answer I got from Dave to my inquiry. I think he won't mind me showing it here.<br />
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<span style="color: blue; font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;">The LeakSeeker and CapAnalyzer parts listed below are available. </span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">Purchase includes all data required to build your own CapAnalyzer </span><i style="background-color: white;">and</i><span style="background-color: white;"> LeakSeeker; the list is shown below.</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;"> LeakSeeker 89 is unique in the world and nothing can do what it does. Check out the eds-inc website for more info.</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><br style="background-color: white;" /><b style="background-color: white;">A</b><b style="background-color: white;">ll prices in US Dollars:</b><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">EDS-89 or EDS-88A kit of all pcb parts (including programmed mcu) to mount to pcb (pcb not included) $89</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">Programmed MCUs </span><i style="background-color: white;">ONLY</i><span style="background-color: white;">: IC set for CapAnalyzer88A $25, mcu for LeakSeeker89 $18.</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">3-piece gold-plated test lead set for LeakSeeker $18</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">Special tweezer probe assy for CapAnalyzer $29.</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">No other parts in stock, however the sources below show where to buy or fabricate the pc board, overlays and cabinet.</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">FEDEX or DHL shipping to Germany 81371 $49.45</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">Payments are in US Dollars via Paypal to </span><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:semianalyzer@gmail.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">semianalyzer@gmail.com</a><span style="background-color: white;">. </span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">Or we can send you a pro-forma invoice that you can pay with a credit card or PayPal. Just email us with your list, your name, address, and phone number. FEDEX and DHL will not ship without a phone number.</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><br style="background-color: white;" /><b style="background-color: white;">This data list will be emailed to you with your purchase:</b><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">Eds88ar1 BOM Complete bill of materials for EDS-88A CapAnalyzer series II</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">Eds88ar1.zip PCB and Drill files for EDS-88A.</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">eds88As2fp.pdf Front panel for CapAnalyzer 88a series II</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">EDS-89 BOM bill of materials for EDS-89 Leakseeker</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">EDS-89 OVERLAYS.zip overlay graphics for Leakseeker, includes drill and mill dimensions for OKW case</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">EDS-89 pcb.pdf Parts layout for EDS-89. Don't really need it as pcb will have silkscreen anyway...</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">EDS-89 TOP LAYOUT.jpg Just another graphic of main panel in EDS-89</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">EDS-89.zip pcb gerber and drill files for EDS-89</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">All EDS products use pc boards fabricated by </span><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:andy.yu@fastechcircuit.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">andy.yu@fastechcircuit.com</a><span style="background-color: white;"> </span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">These pcb makers will have a small minimum of boards that must be made so there will be extras;</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">There are also many people selling these extra spare pc boards on eBay; do a Google search or see email list below.</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">Or anyone advertising in magazines like Elektor or Nuts and Volts. Or get spare boards from other kit builders. Try these, most have purchased parts kits and may have spares...</span><br style="background-color: white;" /><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:sales@tristatesound.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">sales@tristatesound.com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:ml19554@gmail.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">ml19554@gmail.com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:hugh@mercedelectronics.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">hugh@mercedelectronics.com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:mpeter1604@gmail.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">mpeter1604@gmail.com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:billmcdonald80@gmail.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">billmcdonald80@gmail.com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:aardvark301@gmail.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">aardvark301@gmail.com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:andy.thompson@moviehouse.co.uk" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">andy.thompson@moviehouse.co.uk</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:jrobinson@aerotecusa.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">jrobinson@aerotecusa.com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:amtate@gmail.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">amtate@gmail.com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:jason.panrucker@odysseygaming.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">jason.panrucker@odysseygaming.<wbr></wbr>com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:chrisiaforbes@hotmail.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">chrisiaforbes@hotmail.com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:kenjensam@bellsouth.net" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">kenjensam@bellsouth.net</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:clint.thomas@att.net" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">clint.thomas@att.net</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:kdchau71@gmail.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">kdchau71@gmail.com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:amusementservice@bigpond.com.au" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">amusementservice@bigpond.com.<wbr></wbr>au</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:munthernahleh@gmail.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">munthernahleh@gmail.com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:sajidmkhi@gmail.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">sajidmkhi@gmail.com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:amtate@gmail.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">amtate@gmail.com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">Cabinet for EDS-88A is the 36TDB from Simco </span><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.simcobox.com/" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">https://www.simcobox.com/</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">Cabinet for EDS-89 is the OKW Teko TENCLOS PULPIT 590.9 order from </span><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:martyr@okwusa.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">martyr@okwusa.com</a><span style="background-color: white;"> or </span><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:travisr@okwusa.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">travisr@okwusa.com</a><span style="background-color: white;"> or </span><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:rayt@okwusa.com" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">rayt@okwusa.com</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white;">User manuals (and alignment instructions for EDS-88A) on the eds website </span><a class="m_7805421578834875759moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://eds-inc.com/index.html" style="background-color: white;" target="_blank">http://eds-inc.com/index.html</a></span></div></div></div>Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-68722168483950938882019-01-13T16:32:00.000+01:002019-01-14T00:33:21.496+01:00The Andonstar ADSM302 microscope - more versatile than you think!BGA reballing and main board repair means staring at very small components. I am 51 years old now and need some decent magnification to be able to see these little balls, chips, resistors and whatnot.<br />
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The high end microscopes by Amtech or Eakins, which you see in various repair videos, are prohibitively expensive for occasional use, and also very bulky for my restricted workbench.</div>
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The new Andonstar ADSM302 came at the right time for me. After checking some reviews on YouTube and reading all about it, I bought one on eBay from Germany for 200 EUR.</div>
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This thing is great! The picture quality is more than I ever need. I'll show you some modifications, which I haven't seen so far anywhere. Those make it even more useful!</div>
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Turn the base by 180°</h4>
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The base is not terribly small, but still annoying. I want my stuff to lay flat on my bench. It is dead easy to mount the holder to point away from the base. An old disk drive attached as a counterweight and there you have it, a flat workspace underneath the microscope!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnNUS-NnSqjS8CsfGTPZdvsF-3XLPV5bX7qieS8l1_TvMPYIUZHte9wmyFNK7x72LCIOkuAIC3RC7U8Nfuspv282H9Ck8iJZ1cPtQSPN_WNsilFwRU07ffuLnsWr2sCQhjBqKdgDkzJO3w/s1600/IMG_2140.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnNUS-NnSqjS8CsfGTPZdvsF-3XLPV5bX7qieS8l1_TvMPYIUZHte9wmyFNK7x72LCIOkuAIC3RC7U8Nfuspv282H9Ck8iJZ1cPtQSPN_WNsilFwRU07ffuLnsWr2sCQhjBqKdgDkzJO3w/s400/IMG_2140.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Mount in two positions</h4>
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That's not all. The optics can be attached to the holder in two positions, thanks to a second groove below the focus ring. The manual doesn't reveal that.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjswaNC8syjCP0ALArBG1-IO2OIPGIwdaXnTcwL7VMJB14WlDLCfIHmUvmzKpbribUHZrn4384RncrTZ1mrJNlKbsLr48mhdJC0ayfoWvOaiQppPbwJ13-6RDFu00oPbWdMHRnO9UWWENsp/s1600/IMG_2141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjswaNC8syjCP0ALArBG1-IO2OIPGIwdaXnTcwL7VMJB14WlDLCfIHmUvmzKpbribUHZrn4384RncrTZ1mrJNlKbsLr48mhdJC0ayfoWvOaiQppPbwJ13-6RDFu00oPbWdMHRnO9UWWENsp/s400/IMG_2141.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Large "zoom" range!</h4>
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And now look what a fantasic range you get from this little microscope. We are looking at a CPU taken from a Philips TV. Beautiful full HD images on a 22 inch monitor.</div>
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Top position:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRwAvsNAWw3cQhXzMu8OM_T9VhEWnz3Y-6DD-ogjCSRovJAcoVvkcjH3Xge0ReNaKkE7Y5tfcpFWilbMAiZGyZ63Xp-FrPBEcNXDsRzDZIqtnMkwCVkwa5GZOVCZzFMWqGfSr-qP_6R2S7/s1600/IMG_2142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRwAvsNAWw3cQhXzMu8OM_T9VhEWnz3Y-6DD-ogjCSRovJAcoVvkcjH3Xge0ReNaKkE7Y5tfcpFWilbMAiZGyZ63Xp-FrPBEcNXDsRzDZIqtnMkwCVkwa5GZOVCZzFMWqGfSr-qP_6R2S7/s400/IMG_2142.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Bottom position, still enough room to work under it:</div>
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I dare to say that this is the best microscope in the 200€ range today. Second to none.</div>
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Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-45357396775191528982018-12-31T17:45:00.000+01:002019-01-10T00:52:36.393+01:00IR6500 Rework Station Modification - Ineffective bottom heater due to overly thick glassFirst of all: get the <b>original manual for the controller</b> <a href="http://www.altec.cc/downloadfile/pc900_en.pdf">HERE</a>. The description in the IR6500 manual is an unreadable desaster.<br />
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It did not take me long to realize that the thick glass of this rework station is absorbing most of the energy from the bottom heater. The 800W of the heating element were basically ineffective.<br />
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Also, the station has trouble with the peak temperature of 230°C in the reflow program. I need to adjust the top heater very close to the chip if I like to reach it. Closer than I feel comfortable with. The manual says >2 centimeters. That's actually the maximum distance. Further away and the peak temp will never be reached. If a window is open or a fume extractor running, it is even worse. I think that a good heating support from the bottom will stabilize the temperature.</div>
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I got inspired by<span style="color: purple;"> <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6RHuUQJmh8">this YouTube video</a></span>.<br />
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Screw the warranty, I want this thing to work! Let's remove the top:</div>
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Oh dear, I have used the station only a dozen times and the temperature sensor shield was already burned and coming off. The sensor had no contact with the heater anymore. This thing gets too hot for any glue. A stupid design.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNYj1OjxMZ5k6vEwaoSWPdaGyso3DiOsj9dnr7o627RZu0cChbLLaaPiPTIDtHoEm73g4ozmnsnEb0PFkBR5N2fC-OhrmuMgwK6Cj_Rkbdx4mpq2bu1eM6dUAfOy9BZIANyoCi7g5WVOH/s1600/IMG_2084.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNYj1OjxMZ5k6vEwaoSWPdaGyso3DiOsj9dnr7o627RZu0cChbLLaaPiPTIDtHoEm73g4ozmnsnEb0PFkBR5N2fC-OhrmuMgwK6Cj_Rkbdx4mpq2bu1eM6dUAfOy9BZIANyoCi7g5WVOH/s320/IMG_2084.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiOHwC63mEMo8nAU2ndQa8aa-CgAPj9AsscFvTO1txb49cx6QeDN-trqPMAOp0hQnNfhqvp6pLubt-z9pVv_U3bCe4nJ8SUf-68xVNAPa4vbo7Bitnk0jGSXTorvjMxGEnH9uqd0-GYIH4/s1600/IMG_2086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiOHwC63mEMo8nAU2ndQa8aa-CgAPj9AsscFvTO1txb49cx6QeDN-trqPMAOp0hQnNfhqvp6pLubt-z9pVv_U3bCe4nJ8SUf-68xVNAPa4vbo7Bitnk0jGSXTorvjMxGEnH9uqd0-GYIH4/s320/IMG_2086.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is garbage. I am not interested in the temperature of the heater, anyway. I want to know the lower temperature of the board, if anything.</div>
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The sensor has a rugged, metal sleeve. So let's pull it outside through one of the slits:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkaFm1zZpaUpBYpM0G-trI0kI4PtnTiq6x-XazCc5ji7E5M0de_ln2P-pGi5bE5OSkWlU6IvVAe_O1M94WuebtRo97bGLCdV1z55qagcZrnY-FMzxcXQ5tqqxt7N0TqCDJJRNqJehY3Dgw/s1600/IMG_2089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkaFm1zZpaUpBYpM0G-trI0kI4PtnTiq6x-XazCc5ji7E5M0de_ln2P-pGi5bE5OSkWlU6IvVAe_O1M94WuebtRo97bGLCdV1z55qagcZrnY-FMzxcXQ5tqqxt7N0TqCDJJRNqJehY3Dgw/s400/IMG_2089.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The downside of the top cover:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFEPYPXkqeqQSYhU-sFccwNO_vOcs5X48UnQTcb-NJKjHM_GZueJkBaAkdH0-48Dv3KlS8_f5XvOPty0VdQGdC5zgfGHltdcSQ9FRjTPqdP2bHmUmV33182D5-Mo1pXqTzgstrs_o-BVjp/s1600/IMG_2088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFEPYPXkqeqQSYhU-sFccwNO_vOcs5X48UnQTcb-NJKjHM_GZueJkBaAkdH0-48Dv3KlS8_f5XvOPty0VdQGdC5zgfGHltdcSQ9FRjTPqdP2bHmUmV33182D5-Mo1pXqTzgstrs_o-BVjp/s400/IMG_2088.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Unscrew the frame that holds the glass and remove the glass. This thing is really thick!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTw8XKjhJ8UxOmPoWtuyOyJNHj4fGJ1HAKmnWHAZ_9K4ikvV8zKLKP6UIvT73zRJlHkP5hCrzC6wftQtVwmkPREUm2FkWBx1IX7-Paj7m0gwW8ER73F7FgD_gYV4bfIAhQerRMNU5RHyzX/s1600/IMG_2092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTw8XKjhJ8UxOmPoWtuyOyJNHj4fGJ1HAKmnWHAZ_9K4ikvV8zKLKP6UIvT73zRJlHkP5hCrzC6wftQtVwmkPREUm2FkWBx1IX7-Paj7m0gwW8ER73F7FgD_gYV4bfIAhQerRMNU5RHyzX/s400/IMG_2092.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I got a metal grill from a hardware store. I cut it to the right size and screwed it to the cover:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWqBzBWpowHvG5rqmx2755DEnez3dbV4UGjoqqAQM7zWL27XEgXJ4rz87oNJpqw0_h2HO6KriGgoOl2LbVvCbj1ZAWRla2U23rpUQu_PB0Z5iL6ob7OSai9sA7DbGSwtZ6HV6i-AYFa5lN/s1600/IMG_2093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWqBzBWpowHvG5rqmx2755DEnez3dbV4UGjoqqAQM7zWL27XEgXJ4rz87oNJpqw0_h2HO6KriGgoOl2LbVvCbj1ZAWRla2U23rpUQu_PB0Z5iL6ob7OSai9sA7DbGSwtZ6HV6i-AYFa5lN/s400/IMG_2093.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqmzear2tahg31tSW8t8o16vVqh3y3RP5fHIgzG2VVhdGUCBkXP4Jc-ScZ1-_MMuCaDcj48hN7vR1EwiXQzbmChri4LxGbX2LMDZVkVjbhMNIIbRGqff4Iz6fgbAwg1o_21oOzicyRtwJG/s1600/IMG_2095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqmzear2tahg31tSW8t8o16vVqh3y3RP5fHIgzG2VVhdGUCBkXP4Jc-ScZ1-_MMuCaDcj48hN7vR1EwiXQzbmChri4LxGbX2LMDZVkVjbhMNIIbRGqff4Iz6fgbAwg1o_21oOzicyRtwJG/s400/IMG_2095.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The difference in heat radiation is remarkable. The glass takes everything away!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisGgjALq3t5xbnq5PaSqPjxtFhsCs7FWnrTGaRosX6-kaWqY9LHP7YODRQJuArEe1CxnybtH5RMq9BPkNpGCfFyFOsZghx0yizsoI4JB434U19h-KVenJAHosQN0YMcd9zJb-CGvJJ5mEk/s1600/IMG_2094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisGgjALq3t5xbnq5PaSqPjxtFhsCs7FWnrTGaRosX6-kaWqY9LHP7YODRQJuArEe1CxnybtH5RMq9BPkNpGCfFyFOsZghx0yizsoI4JB434U19h-KVenJAHosQN0YMcd9zJb-CGvJJ5mEk/s400/IMG_2094.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Sweet, now let's do a preheater test without running a program and measure a few things:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqXm0YBFe8ZnHae5H1Th5zexNns7fysOjk3dsquKI8K12hxuRh3LuYc86qBF27I6Nl_eUKRDIHWvT4eOfFqbLjabGLoMEMjkw1S2KzsBRSVD2U8-W_rIACJa8-VthoiHdtel0t4Ixj3csu/s1600/IMG_2096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqXm0YBFe8ZnHae5H1Th5zexNns7fysOjk3dsquKI8K12hxuRh3LuYc86qBF27I6Nl_eUKRDIHWvT4eOfFqbLjabGLoMEMjkw1S2KzsBRSVD2U8-W_rIACJa8-VthoiHdtel0t4Ixj3csu/s400/IMG_2096.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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With the bottom temperature set to 100C, the board heated up nicely to the specified temp in a few minutes. Note that with the glass on, the board would go up to about 40C max after ages with the heater set to 250! </div>
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The heating element has around 300C, which should be well inside its spec.</div>
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Well, it is no surprise that a relatively cheap chinese rework station is not quite finished and has a sloppy build quality. On the other hand, those things are simple and easily tweaked.</div>
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Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-79440385220586967402018-12-02T20:52:00.000+01:002019-02-17T01:53:59.209+01:00Philips 55PFL6158 - 2 blinks - Code 53 - QFU 1.2 - CPU reflow - IR6500 rework stationI am getting the hang of those QFU boards. :-)<br />
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<i>Update: I have revived another two of those boards recently with the same symptom by reflowing the CPU.</i><br />
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This Philips did not show any sign of life except for the standby LED, which responded to an infrared remote. The 2-blink would show after a while and the level 2 code in SDM mode was 53.<br />
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Quick reminder: if you attempt to repair a QFU Philips, you must have a logging adapter, otherwise you are blind. See <a href="https://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2017/06/reading-philips-tv-logs-with-usb-uart.html">this blog post</a>.<br />
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I plugged in the logging adapter and I got this in many repetitions until the two blinks came:<br />
....<br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.548 0x00000002 page is reading </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.557 0x00000000 0x00000000 0x00000000 StartUnit/EndUnit/offset </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.557 Reading out data: </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.557 00 unit: </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.557 </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.567 </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.567 waiting ECC result ready </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.567 00 bits error in the unit. </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.567 </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.567 </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.567 {preboot} </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.567 <000> </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.567 <010> </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.567 <020>K</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13.728px;">That was it. Abrubt end.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13.728px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13.728px;">To learn what was going on in a good TV I logged my 40 inch QFU1.2. The section where the dead device looped should look like this:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13.728px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background: rgb(255 , 255 , 64); font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.567 {preboot}<br />20:49:53.567 <000><br />20:49:53.567 <010><br />20:49:53.567 <020>K</span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">KG0G1 </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.773 <030>DDDDDDDDDDDDDD </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.831 <040>secure </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.832 Load uboot </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.850 </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.884 </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.884 U-Boot 2009.01_Production (Jun 11 2013 - 10:29:06) </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.884 </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.884 U�U </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.911 NAND: NAND, size:1024MB, Micron(ID:0x2c,0x38), block size:512KB </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.913 1024 MiB </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.932 Env: NAND @ 0x01800000 </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.983 bootcmd1 </span><br style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;" /><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">20:49:53.996 BOOTREASON=coldboot</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">...</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">So, the processor could not reach the point where it starts reading the main software, which is actually a Linux boot.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">I suspected the SPI ROM first and swapped it. No change. Then I tried the NAND chip with an image from a 40PFL6008. No change.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">The last option left was the CPU. I did not dare to reflow the whole board with its uncountable miniscule parts everywhere. I needed a tool with more precision.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">I had my eyes on a BGA reflow workstation for a long time and this was the opportunity.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;">Here it is, the affordable IR6500 made in China (where else).</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT_VpHS247am5y4y9lHOTQ4CC4ZiYD_WduCjWGPmGtSJU6Y8g6SnqIG4z0XYMAw3MbYh1-1eJdEVV9XZcLmBxtmsfcxp9htsrLDS2bGDME1H5K2HZScJSQV0EOJ8REKCAADBbaAoUSXZja/s1600/IMG_2068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT_VpHS247am5y4y9lHOTQ4CC4ZiYD_WduCjWGPmGtSJU6Y8g6SnqIG4z0XYMAw3MbYh1-1eJdEVV9XZcLmBxtmsfcxp9htsrLDS2bGDME1H5K2HZScJSQV0EOJ8REKCAADBbaAoUSXZja/s640/IMG_2068.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.728px;"><br /></span></span>
The preparation of the board was as follows:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Remove the heatsink from the CPU. Use a heat gun briefly and it will come off easily.</li>
<li>Do not put thick, tacky flux under the chip. I used to do this before, but realized that if the flux bubbles under the CPU while the balls are liquid, this can make the chip bounce and also it can cause balls to connect. Only thin, liquid flux, which does not accumulate under the chip and evaporates quickly, is suitable.</li>
<li>Cover everything around the CPU with tin foil. Some instruction videos use a tape. I don't think this is necessary as this device does not blow hot air.</li>
</ul>
Reflow in progress:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi29Z2hfY49A7KY8AcHr5v7gfjanSHecjhEMf5pUXvqH-mwwUOkGAS016g28SJkyxRqVBwz8i5sB2aB0aACpg6qpAHuiG4p7GRu5RQeDFtt0D__BilQCAWwhH3dr_WbZzol7JJO07-VuWny/s1600/IMG_2067.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi29Z2hfY49A7KY8AcHr5v7gfjanSHecjhEMf5pUXvqH-mwwUOkGAS016g28SJkyxRqVBwz8i5sB2aB0aACpg6qpAHuiG4p7GRu5RQeDFtt0D__BilQCAWwhH3dr_WbZzol7JJO07-VuWny/s320/IMG_2067.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The first test was almost successful. It started booting but something was wrong with the NAND flash that I swapped. Linux refused it. Because the NAND was not the fault in the first place, I put back the original and voila! It started up fine.<br />
<br />
Last task: put the heatsink back on. The original adhesive pad got ripped apart. To make the sink removable I decided to glue a thin thermal pad between the CPU and the sink:<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0h2EDvg6U2U5KFFDTmiQ_GBoeWt-yAuloHL92meoa5x4yLpkP1UEofG8klDXHqKS844G16n4TRR2AgCh5pFwTKDesoiH8ghu78UgjBgc8Z05gegAVWentSmeujA_YscyBONPg-_OTJRMn/s1600/IMG_2069.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0h2EDvg6U2U5KFFDTmiQ_GBoeWt-yAuloHL92meoa5x4yLpkP1UEofG8klDXHqKS844G16n4TRR2AgCh5pFwTKDesoiH8ghu78UgjBgc8Z05gegAVWentSmeujA_YscyBONPg-_OTJRMn/s320/IMG_2069.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The glue stays somewhat flexible, yet it might be strong enough to make removing a glued sink from the chip an unpleasant work. I'd rather destroy the pad instead.<br />
<br />
This all worked well. Hallo Frau Johansson!<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
I do like this TV. The LG panel produces beautiful, realistic colors. My Panasonic Plasma is still the king of skin tone, but I could totally live with this one. With the sharpening reduced to a minimum, that is. I also like that it can be switched to computer mode, which bypasses all extra image processing and pixel by pixel is displayed as is. This gives you a realistic impression which information an image really contains and how much these devices invent by themselves!<br />
<br />
The sound is not bad either. The 6000 series is still a bit on the budget side. Stereo is not taking place. The 8000 and 9000 series have a lot more to offer there.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Improving the cooling situation</h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
Philips has undersized the CPU cooling on all QFU chassis. The QFU1.2 is even worse than the QFU1.1. The CPU won't die from that, but the solder balls will break. Interestingly, the 1.1 seems to have different typical faults than the 1.2, yet both are caused by overheating.<br />
<br />
This is an image of the back cover from a white 40 inch:<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglSRjAirajKimTMYwj6mVlehRAhf64HYSFVnHKrTCDE6KKCp4mrl6xr9NmWbkV6SM2lXL-WBqdS5LaiQbA8-yzc_enYbxBl0ESsVUez40xs99pCiTDrMUTRxJ3awCR-U8DJY9fTJUXQ9QW/s1600/IMG_2076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglSRjAirajKimTMYwj6mVlehRAhf64HYSFVnHKrTCDE6KKCp4mrl6xr9NmWbkV6SM2lXL-WBqdS5LaiQbA8-yzc_enYbxBl0ESsVUez40xs99pCiTDrMUTRxJ3awCR-U8DJY9fTJUXQ9QW/s320/IMG_2076.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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</div>
<br />
There is some convection going on. The air stream hits the CI socket (bravo!) and exits through a small portion of the upper grill. The dark streaks are dust accumulations on the footprint of the heat sink. Hot plastic attracts dust. This solution relies exclusively on air convection. The infrared radiation hits the plastic and in turn, being a bad heat conductor, the plastic gets hot, radiating back onto the device.<br />
<br />
Without the back cover, at 21°C room temperature, the CPU gets 55° hot. That's okay. But with the cover on and in summer I estimate another 20° or more on top of that. That's almost 80°. Too hot for sustained function, if you ask me.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
I found no way to attach a larger heatsink to the CPU. There is just no free spot on the board where to fix it.<br />
<br />
When I put the back cover on, I noticed that the thermal pad closed the gap between the sink and the cover. That was bad! Thermal death unavoidable and high danger of mechanical shock.<br />
<br />
I cut out a rectangle at the sink position and glued a metal grid on it. Nothing beats a sink exposed to fresh air. Infrared radiation and air convection in one. It is not exactly robust and does not protect the CPU too well, but unusual problems require unusual solutions :-D<br />
There are more stable grids available in hardware stores, but those are are not fine enough.<br />
<br />
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<br />
One hour break-in. About 55°C constant. This is perfect. Identical thermal situation as with an open cover.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijW3H5nh8Q8npRq66VaJpM0bS2hu87cW1CH9BWH6KbB8qkPeSt7RzcnjUyI8vUT0NGRYdL0xl1pXTm1XoV7-k65xhwx1OYmvhh4hbOJRisSseb2WPNuMGoHS0Bd8SGerFwdxnwbzZWK1TG/s1600/IMG_2072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijW3H5nh8Q8npRq66VaJpM0bS2hu87cW1CH9BWH6KbB8qkPeSt7RzcnjUyI8vUT0NGRYdL0xl1pXTm1XoV7-k65xhwx1OYmvhh4hbOJRisSseb2WPNuMGoHS0Bd8SGerFwdxnwbzZWK1TG/s400/IMG_2072.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>
About the IR6500</h4>
<div>
<br /></div>
This thing is a little rough around the edges as you might expect from a budget Chinese product.<br />
<br />
The manual is funny Chinglish. I could figure out the meaning of most sentences. However, not all details are needed. There is one predefined program for leaded and one for unleaded solder. That's all I need to know. Press start and you are good.<br />
<br />
The glass shield on top of the downside heater is bullshit. It reduces the function of the heater plate drastically. The preheating is practically ineffective. I ran the program with the top heater swiveled aside. The board made it to 45°C on the top side. That's a joke. Proper pre-heating begins with 80 or more! I think I am going to remove the glass.<br />
<br />Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-85420262838833264492018-07-29T12:28:00.001+02:002020-06-02T13:33:30.555+02:00Philips 42PFL7008 - QFU 1.2 - defect NAND flash? Strange boot loopingYet another Philips QFU case. This time, the TV got stuck in a boot loop. It would not reach the point where it displays anything.<br />
<br />
The first thing to do is to start the emergency software installation. For that, you need an infrared remote, which does not come with the TV. You can get one for around 10€. The reason being that the software, which manages the original radio remote control will not be loaded under such circumstances. Silly Philips!<br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Disconnect the TV from the mains</li>
<li>Press OK or DOWN on the remote and hold it</li>
<li>Plug in the mains.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
I did that and the recovery program came up. Good! This means that the screen, the backlight, and the main processor are doing fine. It can only be a problem with the software or the devices that store it, respectively.<br />
<br />
The QFU main software, which I downloaded from Philips, installed fine. The TV went to standby - and did still not start.<br />
<br />
Next up: logfile reading. I plugged in my adapter (see <a href="http://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2017/06/reading-philips-tv-logs-with-usb-uart.html">this post</a>) and realized that the device is looping. It did not stop randomly while booting, rather it happened at more or less the same moment. The last log message was truncated, no indication that the loop was intended by the software.<br />
<br />
This means that the processor always crashed for the same reason. Processors crash due to corrupted software. As I had installed the software previously, I came to the conclusion that the NVRAM chip must be faulty.<br />
<br />
In the schematics, the chip is a <b>MT29F8G08ABACAWP</b>. In reality though, it is a <b>MT29F8G08ABA<span style="color: red;">B</span>AWP.</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
It is a 8GB NAND chip.<br />
<br />
I was able to to find the binary image of the software. Now I needed a programmer with which to load the software onto the chip, and a supplier from where to buy it.<br />
<br />
I got the chips from Aliexpress <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-2pcs-lot-MT29F8G08ABABAWP-B-MT29F8G08ABABAWP-MT29F8G08ABA-29F8G08ABABA-TSOP-48/32861587668.html">HERE</a>. It worked fine.<br />
<br />
The programmer I chose was <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-newest-NAND-ProMan-Professional-programmer-repair-tool-copy-NAND-FLASH-data-recovery-high-programming/32513321735.html">THIS MODEL</a>. It also worked flawlessly.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBzh7_Wc4qB7B7-oLlbIT3sfddmfFMB_4Qbj4pvaBs59r17pmXCrXH02n1ViNDNb1B4QmRxN9ntNtyPYc4p_mgX0U3fcNC-LqwmiPlGMPoZKH9vLMPoJblZby_VBiuJr7HA1XPv4fJDDXX/s1600/proman.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="351" data-original-width="468" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBzh7_Wc4qB7B7-oLlbIT3sfddmfFMB_4Qbj4pvaBs59r17pmXCrXH02n1ViNDNb1B4QmRxN9ntNtyPYc4p_mgX0U3fcNC-LqwmiPlGMPoZKH9vLMPoJblZby_VBiuJr7HA1XPv4fJDDXX/s320/proman.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
In case you search for programmes yourself, make sure the exact name of the chip is on the compatibility list. The letter soup is confusing and I got it wrong once and bought a non-suitable programmer first.<br />
<br />
Swapping the chip was surprisingly easy with my preheater plate and a large nozzle on the hot air gun. In about 15 seconds the chip already floated.<br />
<br />
With a new programmed chip soldered in (use lots of flux and a good magnifier glass!) the TV behaved differently. I was able to start it with the remote and everything seemed fine. However I was not successful each time from standby. It would not listen to the remote everytime.<br />
<br />
So I checked the log again and spotted yet another form of boot loop, this time initiated by the software in a consistent and regular manner. The crash was gone, but the TV would refuse to go to standby properly. Instead it first attempts to stop, ambilight goes off, standby LED switches off - and then it reboots into some semi-standby. This repeats forever.<br />
<br />
The standby LED actually has three states, which it goes through:<br />
<br />
- Dimmed. The TV is not listening. Any command from the remote gives me a quick flickering.<br />
- Off. The TV is not listening. Any command from the remote gives a slow, bright blinking.<br />
- On. The TV will only start in this state.<br />
...repeat from top<br />
<br />
A reinstall of the software did not change anything. I also read the boot EEPROM and it was 100% identical to the binary that I have on disc.<br />
<br />
I have no idea what to try to fix the loop. The hardware is working. WiFi, ambilight, radio remote, all good.<br />
<br />
My only guess is that there needs to be some extra software on the NVRAM chip. Yet, the binary image I got from the Russians was a dump of the chip. I am not even sure anymore whether it is necessary to burn the software onto the chip, because the emergency recovery software will program it, anyway.<br />
<br />
So here I am. A TV which is basically working fine, but won't switch itself off to standby. At least I have learned yet another QFU fix, sort of.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Update</h3>
<br />
I soldered in another NAND with the working software from a 55PFL6158 and now the thing does not even write a log anymore. The CPU gets a little warm and then cools off. This cannot have anything to do with the NAND. It is not even trying to boot. The SPI is good, too.<br />
I tried a reflow of the CPU with no luck.<br />
As it turns out, there is a short on one of the power supply lines for the Fusion processor. This CPU needs a reball and if that's not helping, it is probably toast.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-55019800431045570612018-05-07T20:41:00.001+02:002018-05-07T20:41:24.569+02:00Onkyo A8470 - speaker relais not clicking - "servo operation" lamp not coming on - degraded glue on protection IC's pinsThat was an interesting repair. A friend brought me his Onkyo amplifier. It did not switch the speaker relais on and the servo operation lamp did not come on. Both are controlled by the integrated protection chip Toshiba TA7317 and after some tests and measurements, it became pretty clear that the error had to be there. The amp produced a signal just up to the relais and there was no DC on the output, either.<br />
<br />
I remembered a YouTube video where a guy said that in old devices a certain type of glue would degrade and become ever so slightly conductive. Just enough to cause sensitive circuits to malfunction. And what have we got here? A big splash of that brownish gunk right over the pins of the protection IC! They had glued the patch wire to the board with it and splashed glue all over the place.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPGGZTAbxRX9v5btA-QI7wMEszW5S9q6zEp_6f-5gsQk6-LuN8-4yBz9dthiekWJOeAXdv23JNbDE2ebEmGy6RJjoLvWAR36e9XNjahyphenhyphenlTTdr1dOzj-RkwT8E16-9-t9xyvtboKuC2I5SM/s1600/onkyo1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPGGZTAbxRX9v5btA-QI7wMEszW5S9q6zEp_6f-5gsQk6-LuN8-4yBz9dthiekWJOeAXdv23JNbDE2ebEmGy6RJjoLvWAR36e9XNjahyphenhyphenlTTdr1dOzj-RkwT8E16-9-t9xyvtboKuC2I5SM/s640/onkyo1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
I cleaned it with acetone and the amp came back to life. I resoldered everything just to be safe that it wasn't a dodgy solder joint.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiEuY-nFrIAFrYlyPCzA3x434TRfgVrR-brICIvinYjxVG1YV_0eLaISc4Yp_iSrogpn8ihMV0Ke_RTh0sczJsn7NUc8fyV4L1qaj0F88tojiPmBpDGiogCAypOjn6ph2KJUicjeqAAO0_/s1600/IMG_1721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiEuY-nFrIAFrYlyPCzA3x434TRfgVrR-brICIvinYjxVG1YV_0eLaISc4Yp_iSrogpn8ihMV0Ke_RTh0sczJsn7NUc8fyV4L1qaj0F88tojiPmBpDGiogCAypOjn6ph2KJUicjeqAAO0_/s640/IMG_1721.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
As a precaution I also took care of the other glue spots:<br />
<br />
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<div>
<br /></div>
Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-56717901300722201452017-06-19T12:34:00.002+02:002020-06-22T18:43:29.682+02:00Reading Philips TV logs with an USB-UART adapterWith my Philips TVs I never had the requirement to read the log, as they all had measurable faults or the Service Default Mode revealed everything I needed to know. In case of a two blinks error code, which points to the mainboard, or when the TV won't boot at all, it can be beneficial to peek into the log.<br />
<br />
You need<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>An USB-UART Adapter. This device maps a serial (UART) connection across USB to a serial port (COMx on Windows). Device drivers are required.</li>
<li>A terminal program, which can handle serial ports.</li>
</ul>
<h3>
The hardware</h3>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
There are various types of USB-UART adapters on the market (eBay or AliExpress). First I tried this type:</div>
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<div>
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<div>
Those are garbage. They contain an illegal copy of a <b>Prolific PL2303 Revision A</b> chip, which is discontinued since 2012. Read <a href="http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?p_id=212&pcid=41">HERE</a>. The problem is that the latest Windows 8 & 10 driver won't work with it anymore. Some articles in the net say that Prolific has changed the device signature in their later revisions to lock out the copies. You need to install an older version of the driver. I wasted way too much time with this rubbish.</div>
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I opened mine up and the chip had no marking on it. Sure sign of a copy. Also, the USB plug already started to come off the board.</div>
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So I tried another one with the <b>Silicon Laboratories CP2104</b> chip:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTsVjvIMDvJuBDBAn5av9HOS8LTAWugyP1AW5yzh3F0LNZAaOpKo5i92UUe90lsCGNEOfzFxmVpj3jWWD-6NBePmhGqeRcFRAplVUibNFU7nfXtaFL-myrNGjb0epQxhEoQ6xAlXDUh6U_/s1600/cp2104-2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTsVjvIMDvJuBDBAn5av9HOS8LTAWugyP1AW5yzh3F0LNZAaOpKo5i92UUe90lsCGNEOfzFxmVpj3jWWD-6NBePmhGqeRcFRAplVUibNFU7nfXtaFL-myrNGjb0epQxhEoQ6xAlXDUh6U_/s320/cp2104-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This one's legit. No driver problems, Windows found the driver itself and the device worked.</div>
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The software</h3>
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On the PC you can use <b>PuTTY</b>. A more sophisticated program is <b>RealTerm</b>. It can record sessions, which is quite useful, and has more features than you'll ever need. Both are free.</div>
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The Android app<b> Serial USB Terminal</b> by Kai Morich also works fine. You can read the log on your tablet or phone quickly without a bulky laptop. Just put a micro USB adapter in front of the UART device.</div>
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The connection</h3>
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Now this kept me busy for a while due to my own incompetence.</div>
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The UART / service socket on the TVs is a stereo 3.5inch type like for headphones. The connections are as follows:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNLBff0czVrDExT-2M5FtpGyfDme9S53zeGUPvR4sEn_MAmLO62e8AjTwvL67kGdMX0RZMobRsxDt-U2mQ4H4q5jqQ_3GlNsHr_SLMZnXVBInXTOuZFPh4MHwB7duEoTWT99DuG0LYq3ii/s1600/uart.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="107" data-original-width="343" height="123" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNLBff0czVrDExT-2M5FtpGyfDme9S53zeGUPvR4sEn_MAmLO62e8AjTwvL67kGdMX0RZMobRsxDt-U2mQ4H4q5jqQ_3GlNsHr_SLMZnXVBInXTOuZFPh4MHwB7duEoTWT99DuG0LYq3ii/s400/uart.PNG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here is the rub: you need to cross RXD and TXD. Don't connect the RXD on the adapter with the RXD on the TV. Makes total sense once you understand it :-)</div>
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A schematic from a ComPair device manual put me on track:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_FXhH6jYMOFCyoP4I0cHKQuThWqK0AM_t0Ktz1HdYI48LtNsblxuxGPSgOO4q2yAbn4i-KAqrO2zf_s1K56hTQJJaTGeaUZKEymz6pA1FtA82oX18Br7NF5G0Kvmo5g7xj2BTJfqlEpQy/s1600/klinkenstecker.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="126" data-original-width="411" height="122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_FXhH6jYMOFCyoP4I0cHKQuThWqK0AM_t0Ktz1HdYI48LtNsblxuxGPSgOO4q2yAbn4i-KAqrO2zf_s1K56hTQJJaTGeaUZKEymz6pA1FtA82oX18Br7NF5G0Kvmo5g7xj2BTJfqlEpQy/s400/klinkenstecker.PNG" width="400" /></a></div>
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And that's how I built the thing. I attached a 3.5 inch stereo socket to the adapter and used a stereo cable I had lying around:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd-rc7C6dVTY1zdyr52ZjmQ7AGy9sZl0uMUYk2NBBVSy_3uyQewdmzTaVqwICKpEgoLK-xD-VbsZM-97lYcEb0Vh0cmUF-KFtOj2l522vdkGpXixgoH75chkuHQW1mTal425fwTxAJiVT2/s1600/cp1204.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd-rc7C6dVTY1zdyr52ZjmQ7AGy9sZl0uMUYk2NBBVSy_3uyQewdmzTaVqwICKpEgoLK-xD-VbsZM-97lYcEb0Vh0cmUF-KFtOj2l522vdkGpXixgoH75chkuHQW1mTal425fwTxAJiVT2/s320/cp1204.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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First tests</h3>
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I had a working 42PFL9803 sitting in my living room and I tested the device with it. To my surprise I could not get any useful log. The service manual says 38400bps 8N1. I configured everything accordingly and all I got was garbage. The TV sent data but it wasn't readable. I tried many bps setting with no luck. This TV fooled me for quite some time. I thought something was wrong with the UART adapter :-/ I think the older boards use a lower UART voltage level and won't work with this adapter.</div>
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Yesterday, I picked up a 32PFL9606 and with this one it worked flawlessly. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLIDbMcsAL6Y28HCURsbJQO7pZ82q7511YSZooCKexQpRx6kw4dUeuFi5I42-mtobrDOEMmOZPGfTBtMHcqF5mD9HmEMhwSXIyizX0qTPTeFsz4TusXEP4xZKkmn_lUVA16II3matXH-Zd/s1600/20170619_122729.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLIDbMcsAL6Y28HCURsbJQO7pZ82q7511YSZooCKexQpRx6kw4dUeuFi5I42-mtobrDOEMmOZPGfTBtMHcqF5mD9HmEMhwSXIyizX0qTPTeFsz4TusXEP4xZKkmn_lUVA16II3matXH-Zd/s640/20170619_122729.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS_Y83TJ-bx23RUtBQbbTH-Fav5s-wbD0qtWd-Ei0oLzUBiGWDZmEVbXe7sa3bx3Uu6LkIk-U0gphYbeivMmYLbpbzIj0trFuhc-9lH432e6FTySPhvLYAtWIj_II1uHVEA8XJG366xpDL/s1600/Screenshot_20170618-215755.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS_Y83TJ-bx23RUtBQbbTH-Fav5s-wbD0qtWd-Ei0oLzUBiGWDZmEVbXe7sa3bx3Uu6LkIk-U0gphYbeivMmYLbpbzIj0trFuhc-9lH432e6FTySPhvLYAtWIj_II1uHVEA8XJG366xpDL/s640/Screenshot_20170618-215755.png" width="480" /></a></div>
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Sweet! I can add one more diagnostic tool to my repertoire. I currently have a 46PFL8007 with the dreaded QFU chassis, which doesn't show any signs of life even though the standby voltage is good. It's not writing a log either. But that's the subject of an upcoming blog post once I have reprogrammed its boot EEPROM, which I suspect.</div>
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In the meantime, I glued it into a nice blue box:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiScN_oJUWVMmozLe2OwoSM5leBfy7NGhQ35r5WvsvVy9NFEgsZSptOtu2TtiIDWupmJ6crUaWtlfh2BOYrMse5R3-hCKq48S9cwXi-hjltoeURnZzQT4N88eW3rL78f6i_VYin7kQKdK54/s1600/20180507_004433.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="761" data-original-width="1353" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiScN_oJUWVMmozLe2OwoSM5leBfy7NGhQ35r5WvsvVy9NFEgsZSptOtu2TtiIDWupmJ6crUaWtlfh2BOYrMse5R3-hCKq48S9cwXi-hjltoeURnZzQT4N88eW3rL78f6i_VYin7kQKdK54/s400/20180507_004433.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com49tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-33284932190274089082017-06-05T17:29:00.000+02:002017-06-05T22:34:04.441+02:00RUNTK5351 TCON - defect analysis - ISL98602The TCONs with the ISL DC/DC chip notoriously go bad. Sometimes they are fixable by swapping the chip, sometimes they are not. I had the chance to play with four broken boards. Two of them got a new ISL and still didn't work. However, I present you a few tips how to avoid fruitless work, because the main video chip may be measurably dead. Also I think I have measured the reference voltages that the ISL should produce.<br />
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The next image shows the voltages of a good ISL chip:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2IgGuhsgJfSABjNfUodmMc__rTLhPnxYJfw9eoP3JVb58s1hY5AuNgYGDgH7__AQgMsYkEgtN2SW5pFT5i47DND0_KZrTsKa3WDoY0Zs2A2QpqGWWcYftjUuIeQd8ztNQgZnxNXRrcjqC/s1600/voltages.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2IgGuhsgJfSABjNfUodmMc__rTLhPnxYJfw9eoP3JVb58s1hY5AuNgYGDgH7__AQgMsYkEgtN2SW5pFT5i47DND0_KZrTsKa3WDoY0Zs2A2QpqGWWcYftjUuIeQd8ztNQgZnxNXRrcjqC/s640/voltages.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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If the voltages are all there and there is still no image, the main chip is dead.<br />
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Normally though, the TCONs come with an ISL, which produces no voltages at all. Here are the tests you can do to asses whether it is worth changing:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Test 1: In diode mode, measure the breakthrough voltage of the 1.2V trace. It should be around 0.5V. If it is 0, forget the board.</li>
<li>Test 2: Attach a lab power supply with 1.2V and current limit around 100mA to the 1.2V supply. The main chip should draw about 0.01A. If not, it is broken.</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLFPoF6tPYJrEM5yNTyrfZcXhaqWgvA5y1RpRmt3N8dGbk4jY-D3gAfjXAzsOsXBffL3Pv-XcX24Qp8fl3F9M8KeeVTUrjEUvCiLEX178PhVXTyNkRxDgsendff_3KhWvJL2YqiEQpE_Ij/s1600/IMG_1807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLFPoF6tPYJrEM5yNTyrfZcXhaqWgvA5y1RpRmt3N8dGbk4jY-D3gAfjXAzsOsXBffL3Pv-XcX24Qp8fl3F9M8KeeVTUrjEUvCiLEX178PhVXTyNkRxDgsendff_3KhWvJL2YqiEQpE_Ij/s640/IMG_1807.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Alas, I did not yet have a working board in my hand to know how much current the board is supposed to draw from the 12V line. The ones with the fixed ISL and no shorted main chip both pulled 0.39A. The main chip got pretty hot quickly. I guess this is not normal.<br />
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<h3>
Changing the ISL</h3>
This is very difficult. I never managed to solder it properly with hot air only. It always took me an extra step with the soldering iron to get the solder to flow at the pins. I failed with a needle tip. It doesn not have enough heat capacity. Spade tips neither worked, even small ones, because they all were too clunky to reach the pins. The only tip that worked was the horse shoe with an excess amount of solder on it. A perfectly rectangular tip would be best. And lots of flux is required, of course.<br />
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Be extremely careful with the microscopic SMD parts around it, especially on the upper right corner (previous image). That one 0 Ohm resistor close to the edge gets pushed away easily.<br />
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<br />Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-61275884545858182602017-05-25T23:10:00.002+02:002021-11-23T00:01:48.001+01:00Philips 46PFL8007 - QFU1.1E LA - no standby LED - Boot EEPROM 7CT3 25P10 reprogrammedI bought this Philips as defect and didn't ask any questions. The description said it wouldn't switch on anymore. Well, that did not sound so bad. I had fixed another QFU1.1 this year with a dead standby supply.<br />
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At pickup the seller told me that the TV had been fixed during warranty with the same symptoms. The mainboard was the culprit then. Uh oh...<br />
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When I plugged it in, the standby LED did not light up. Standby voltage was present. The LED is controlled by the main processor (the standby processor section). The only voltage the stdby proc. takes in is the 3.3V standby. Nothing else. The LEDs are fed with the same voltage.<br />
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I studied the service manual thoroughly and the only conclusion was that the processor was in trouble. I ran a reflow session in the oven. Did not help.<br />
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In the Iwenzo repair forum, I got the hint to reprogram the standby software flash ROM. For that you need two things:<br />
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<ul>
<li>The software binary for the QFU1.1 platform SPI boot EEPROM. Version 77.02.</li>
<li>An EEPROM programmer.</li>
</ul>
My adventures with the UART adapters you can read <a href="http://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2017/06/reading-philips-tv-logs-with-usb-uart.html">HERE</a>. This TV did not produce any log whatsoever. The CPU was not running any boot program.<br />
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I also purchased an EEPROM programming device called <b>SkyPro USB Programmer</b>. It is made by <a href="http://www.coright.com/downloads/">Coright</a>. The software installed flawlessly on Win10. I had to desolder the Flash ROM <b>7CT3 </b>and solder it on an adapter board, which then went into the programmer's socket.<br />
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The chip sits under the upper right corner of the white heatsink. The sink has to be removed carefully. It is mounted with two spring bolts, which are easy to release, and an adhesive foil. The foil does not survive the process.<br />
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I tried a <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-New-1Pcs-SOIC8-SOP8-Flash-Chip-IC-Test-Clips-Socket-Adpter-BIOS-24-25/1844300545.html">test clip from Aliexpress</a> first directly on the board. This was like lottery. The clip did not attach properly and I got only nonsense results.<br />
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The software then identified the Flash as 25P10 (128k) instead of a 25MP05 (64k), which is listed in the service manual.<br />
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Now, the hardest problem was to find the right software as there are a number of versions floating around in the net. The<b> QFU1.1</b> has two variants. One for<b> Fusion 67.0.0 </b>and one for<b> Fusion 77.<span style="color: orange;">02</span>.08</b>. This device needs the 77 version.<br />
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The <b>77.<span style="color: orange;">04</span>.08</b> is <b>QFU 1.2</b> and will not fit. It is used in the xxx8 series, not the xxx7.<br />
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To add to the confusion, 77.02.08 is also supposed to work for QFU 2.1. This is only used in the 6007 model, however.<br />
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<span style="background-color: yellow;">This is the software that worked for me</span>: <a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B2aQfvOPwQFsUjk2bmhYRnpIMm8?resourcekey=0-9CieaNOqplElzIZs60_MHA&usp=sharing">DOWNLOAD</a><br />
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<h3>
A peek into the binary files</h3>
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The first diff shows the good file to the left, which finally revived the set, and the scrambled one to the right, which I read from the EEPROM initially. You see that the first block is wiped out with garbage. There were more garbled blocks further up the address space.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTeBvUvOsCMtqNGgq-KNIYmnrbGMlsrsM75Iw55gmXir5X0F1D4AUy8VmuHa9PRKchjyr6Kbmqg-N1KT55Sl8-Ne-9s6f3zRFJEl5CSoooEx6VkKsp6fR3naYxTqk1B1poLl-T2w5l6Sc5/s1600/diff1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="479" data-original-width="1490" height="205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTeBvUvOsCMtqNGgq-KNIYmnrbGMlsrsM75Iw55gmXir5X0F1D4AUy8VmuHa9PRKchjyr6Kbmqg-N1KT55Sl8-Ne-9s6f3zRFJEl5CSoooEx6VkKsp6fR3naYxTqk1B1poLl-T2w5l6Sc5/s640/diff1.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The second diff shows the Fusion 77 to the left and the Fusion 67 to the right. If you have a file at hand and like to investigate which version it is, take a HEX viewer and study the first block.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie_PP5p_F3xR5Q5RWO1XINakWPuPXa5se7EJB7jjA-UHpiGhvzCquYJstcnHgwr5RMcybk8he9XoBrG-JGF_MAleLht71hU07Jy3c9HNJMH-_uFTGYyj2fQPVw6NzJMEYcbDhUXo5qqJEo/s1600/diff2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="440" data-original-width="1535" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie_PP5p_F3xR5Q5RWO1XINakWPuPXa5se7EJB7jjA-UHpiGhvzCquYJstcnHgwr5RMcybk8he9XoBrG-JGF_MAleLht71hU07Jy3c9HNJMH-_uFTGYyj2fQPVw6NzJMEYcbDhUXo5qqJEo/s640/diff2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Notes</h3>
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I first did not realize that the TV was actually fixed because I didn't insert the <b>flat cable to the TCON </b>properly. It looked totally fine, yet it wasn't sitting right.<b> The sockets on the mainboard have a locking mechanism</b>. You need to push the two black knobs down. I failed to do that and broke off the locking nose on the cable. The cable then does not sit very well anymore.<br />
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The TV was stuck in a boot loop because of the cable. The log displayed weird errors about the DVB-S tuner. In hindsight, it must have been trouble with the I2S bus.<br />
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I stumbled over the solution while testing another board where I made the same mistake with the cable again! This time I caught it rebooting immediately after I had touched the cable.<br />
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I once destroyed a not properly seated cable. A trace went up in smoke. Be very careful with those.<br />
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Don't forget to plug all wire harnesses into the mainboard. <b>If the WLAN is missing, you will also get a loop</b>.<br />
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<h3>
So what is going on with those QFU chassis?</h3>
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A number of devices with similar symptoms are mentioned in repair forums and sold on eBay/classifieds. What's going on here? How can an EEPROM, which is otherwise fully functional, lose blocks of its memory? What I know is that the processor gets really hot. I measured 57° celsius at 21° room temperature with an open back cover. Now extrapolate that to 30° and closed cover. I recon it will be 70° or more. Does the EEPROM get grilled? I don't know.Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-26371390813272811812017-04-02T20:47:00.000+02:002017-09-03T15:54:20.908+02:00Panasonic TNPA5330 SN board 7 or 6 blinks - detailed fault analysis and repair guide (TX-P42GT30, VT30, ST30)I received a TX-P42GT30 with the famous 7 blink disease and it is the fifth Pana plasma with this defect. I am going to present my analysis of the causes of this defect, which appears after four to six years. On eBay I am seeing more of them these days.<br />
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The actual cause are loose screws. Why did they get loose? Because of the solder on the contacts. Solder is soft and flows under pressure. Why is this troublesome? Some screws and their contact pads conduct a lot of current into the metal panel chassis. When they become loose, the contact resistance increases and sparking occurs. This in turn leads to very high current peaks, which eventually kills (shorts) a diode. It is also possible that the increased resistance causes the mounting area to heat up and that kills a diode. This diode connects six transistors and another diode and those die immediately.</div>
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The next image shows the troubled screw position in close-up. It takes the full current from the DAF30 diode to the panel chassis ground. Other screws, which I'll show you below, pick up the current and from there it flows back to the power supply. Notice how the legs of the diode are discolored through heat! This one got enormously hot:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdtVbBApKL66Lvd4zvR7E5DOzpXZowUNnSz1-7q943dggeGxK01TvC6n6Yz2Bx1x0EPm_2VF7MwGx6ryFlWU3U1UAryt16ut_vHZUu4rbzjkDQtdfL9usFAVNR56b_kyLWO1R4Bj5gtDav/s1600/IMG_1753.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdtVbBApKL66Lvd4zvR7E5DOzpXZowUNnSz1-7q943dggeGxK01TvC6n6Yz2Bx1x0EPm_2VF7MwGx6ryFlWU3U1UAryt16ut_vHZUu4rbzjkDQtdfL9usFAVNR56b_kyLWO1R4Bj5gtDav/s400/IMG_1753.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The mounting hole backside under the microscope. We see blackened, burnt solder:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKKTeoKyza9xLpAAYfaDWAwh0YRH98CK0RN7TWxKCK1AP1zT4UkX38BBhDYPAFaI07j8Gust5zyh0Z-jJuD5WY-VEg5w_LaVxmsa8_lSQAKfkMVFqa3GhhWtwnXqZtuGbAR0g2LZVu0CX3/s1600/S20170401_0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKKTeoKyza9xLpAAYfaDWAwh0YRH98CK0RN7TWxKCK1AP1zT4UkX38BBhDYPAFaI07j8Gust5zyh0Z-jJuD5WY-VEg5w_LaVxmsa8_lSQAKfkMVFqa3GhhWtwnXqZtuGbAR0g2LZVu0CX3/s400/S20170401_0001.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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And this is what a mounting point looks like:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0M36gkj53JOJi22FuqRitSn7eLqjo_9WE13iHouPOsaAuuy6d8aAymBiEwTlHuVl2oxhTl_0RWtrRfo496MlPgt11yG3aiHHh7497z7sAD_khNBaWpWmWm8GHOp1-_rVuBAOed8ArhD86/s1600/IMG_1758.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0M36gkj53JOJi22FuqRitSn7eLqjo_9WE13iHouPOsaAuuy6d8aAymBiEwTlHuVl2oxhTl_0RWtrRfo496MlPgt11yG3aiHHh7497z7sAD_khNBaWpWmWm8GHOp1-_rVuBAOed8ArhD86/s400/IMG_1758.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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As long as the screws stay under tension, the contact to the chassis will be good.<br />
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In the 60 series, Panasonic has learned from the screw disaster. This is an image from a 55STW60. No solder on the holes and screws with spring washers!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiTaIDgh1mUzxgCwM_cObom6z1COnfwFQvRiuLTUmMxwEl9oNuowrbZ67Xj2GuEhecHA1A41ezJWglFU77ua8LNSH-W8YlauvCTPGdbqxbiDlVxPVwmEEToeYcGXVFod2bn5Ai-f5x8gKO/s1600/IMG_1765.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiTaIDgh1mUzxgCwM_cObom6z1COnfwFQvRiuLTUmMxwEl9oNuowrbZ67Xj2GuEhecHA1A41ezJWglFU77ua8LNSH-W8YlauvCTPGdbqxbiDlVxPVwmEEToeYcGXVFod2bn5Ai-f5x8gKO/s320/IMG_1765.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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They also finally stopped using SMD power transistors and returned to decent heatsinks. Who needs silly super-flat TVs, anyway? I think those scan boards are built for eternity - maybe, provided the capacitors, which get all the heat from below, are holding up well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhiwRHRZa0A8ffkScWKW30k56C031DBmTUvKnRvqSSvjxpmPwmFuPGGJLbp27HTpMb0L0X8RNBkJGZp646JClCbZnff6FaPjJCAjwcfilpwOR4LMh9aLqN_Z706FE648nzukr2ImNbhc1w/s1600/IMG_1766.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhiwRHRZa0A8ffkScWKW30k56C031DBmTUvKnRvqSSvjxpmPwmFuPGGJLbp27HTpMb0L0X8RNBkJGZp646JClCbZnff6FaPjJCAjwcfilpwOR4LMh9aLqN_Z706FE648nzukr2ImNbhc1w/s320/IMG_1766.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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In the next image, I marked the other screws, whose holes also had burn marks. The two on the top pick up the current from the chassis, which enters through the screw in the center. You see the already repaired board with my choice of transistors and diodes (see <a href="http://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2017/03/replacement-of-discontinued-panasonic.html">this post</a>). Other screws have a proper bracket on the board or don't carry much current. There, the contacts looked ok.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4KP5zelql3B8Ae7-NPAIR3C-3pZJcD8pWt-BIAh4AfnbqIKSuwn9Sjvpw_I_kh2tf-Flxdi0c2H_NX0atAnb9dLYEu3U8P4EyjeW8LDgda74yqocP_STa8hxAStnr68MvOzYfsbQm9reV/s1600/screws.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4KP5zelql3B8Ae7-NPAIR3C-3pZJcD8pWt-BIAh4AfnbqIKSuwn9Sjvpw_I_kh2tf-Flxdi0c2H_NX0atAnb9dLYEu3U8P4EyjeW8LDgda74yqocP_STa8hxAStnr68MvOzYfsbQm9reV/s640/screws.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And here is the section of the circuit where you can see all the affected high-power parts in one glance. The DAF30 diode is marked yellow. The diode and three transistors to the left and the three transistors to the right next to the troubled diode are all shorted when disaster strikes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFFHnUR7-i1h8XEStmjA5ln-4pUZrO9rv-nBmA3oLm_qlAlPTHUiXNcA6crv9W_6WDrG1MVIkzrCB8dhlwVFhrpeQueCM5iuSadLxXB2UvE-3k9ScZtVf1_K-y3Tr7XcbczK7WHCHG1gFl/s1600/sn-schematic.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFFHnUR7-i1h8XEStmjA5ln-4pUZrO9rv-nBmA3oLm_qlAlPTHUiXNcA6crv9W_6WDrG1MVIkzrCB8dhlwVFhrpeQueCM5iuSadLxXB2UvE-3k9ScZtVf1_K-y3Tr7XcbczK7WHCHG1gFl/s640/sn-schematic.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<h3>
From 7 blinks to 6 blinks</h3>
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6 blinks indicate a problem with the MIR voltage, the energy recovery voltage, which builds up across the blue C631. It must stay in a corridor around 120V.</div>
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<b>Dead driver transistor array and control chip (energy recovery H section)</b><br />
Strangely, a driver transistor plus its control chip die, even though they are not responsible for any of the shorted power transistors. Q441 is still ok, yet those two are dead. I wonder why, but I have observed this twice already, <b>only in 42 inch models </b>though.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEica71N81HSPqmJPz7b-83ZR1WeaPBdOTmYsJVt-JdrzopK9xHOAC_N1PTo6osltTUVpKcU2Hm32U4lmK4Fa2-A6D3mXiZB7DMvSTDKN3Ckkc_rfJxMavMUOJ87fT-kCB96nqld6JsGtK_q/s1600/pana05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEica71N81HSPqmJPz7b-83ZR1WeaPBdOTmYsJVt-JdrzopK9xHOAC_N1PTo6osltTUVpKcU2Hm32U4lmK4Fa2-A6D3mXiZB7DMvSTDKN3Ckkc_rfJxMavMUOJ87fT-kCB96nqld6JsGtK_q/s400/pana05.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Broken IGBT (energy recovery L section)</b><br />
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The boards I have repaired also had a less obvious failure in Q451, a DG302 transistor. It has no dead short, but in diode test mode, it will leak between collector and gate and show a break-through voltage on the multimeter. It may not have this fault at the beginning and develop it once the other defects are repaired and you switch the device on for the first time! But don't worry, it will not destroy any other parts. It is best to routinely replace it.<br />
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See also below where I describe how to debug the recovery section.<br />
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<h4>
How to repair this defect properly</h4>
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<ul>
<li>Replace all broken components</li>
<li>Remove all solder on both sides of all screw mounting holes. Only apply a very thin and flat(!) layer of solder. It helps making a good contact.</li>
<li>Clean the mounting points on the panel chassis from all black residue.</li>
<li>For the screw next to the DAF30 diode and the two on the top, replace the original screws with ones with a spring washer. Make sure they are not too long, otherwise you will drill into the panel! The screws will not loosen much once the solder is gone, but for the critical ones I want extra safety.</li>
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<h4>
Debugging the 6 blinks of the energy recovery circuit</h4>
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Through my own stupidity I damaged an already repaired board and spent hours trying to find the reason for the 6 blinks. The device started, the green LED on the SN board briefly came on and then it immediately shut down. Not enough time to take measurements with a voltmeter. A not 100% working driver transistor was the culprit. Along the way I learned a lot about the circuit.</div>
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Get the manual for the <b>TC</b>-42GT30 from <i>elektrotanya.com</i>. This manual is top quality with zoom-able schematics. Page 69, chapter 12.27<i> SN1 Board Schematic Diagram</i>. I have another for the TX-42 with pixelated graphics, where you can't read the part numbers.</div>
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<span style="background-color: yellow;">The <b>recovery voltage</b> can be measured across <b>C631</b></span>. It should be around 120V. The protection activates below 36V and above 157V. The polarity is not important, just focus on the amount.</div>
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A multimeter in MIN-MAX mode may not be fast enough to catch the max amount. I used a digital storage oscilloscope in roll mode with 1ms time base. It showed the ramp-up of the voltage beautifully. However, this is not required, because if the protection circuit fires, there are only two possible cases, which a quick multimeter can detect in MIN-MAX mode:</div>
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<span style="background-color: yellow;">If the voltage is missing, the <b>recovery L</b> section is not working. Most likely, Q451 has a problem as described above. Mine never had a full short. If it has, also replace Q551 and IC522.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: yellow;">If the amount is too high, the <b>recovery H</b> section is not working. Strangely, Q441 does not die, but its companions Q531 and IC502. This is a total mystery to me.</span></div>
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<h4>
Spare parts</h4>
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The driver IC I got from <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PCS-BD8693FVM-HVTR-BD8693-D8693/32262502698.html">HERE</a> and the transistors from <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-CPH5524-TL-E-50V-3A-CPH5-CPH5524-TL-5524/32522132691.html">HERE</a>. So far, they seem legit and work ok.</div>
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In <a href="http://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2017/03/replacement-of-discontinued-panasonic.html">THIS BLOG POST</a> I talk about possible replacement for discontinued parts. I am trying my luck with the <b>FGD4536 </b>for all the power transistors, including the DG302.</div>
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Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com124tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-28181095645324555082017-03-31T23:15:00.001+02:002017-07-30T11:32:56.877+02:00Marantz SR7007 - not starting - rapidly blinking LED - defect transistor MMBT5551 in ASO protection circuitI always wanted to peek into an AV receiver even though I know that these devices are notoriously difficult to service due to their tight packing of boards. But sometimes, we just need challenges, right?<br />
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The SR7007 caught my eye on eBay. It is still a quite young model (2012) and is technically mostly identical to the 08 Series of 2013. I need preamp outputs and this one had all channels. Nice.<br />
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When I switched it on, I heard one click, the display went on and then after about three seconds it switched into protection and the LED blinked rapidly about twice per second.<br />
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I suspected a problem with the power amplifier because after the delay normally the speaker relais should switch. Knowing nothing about this device I first tried my luck by isolating (aka plugging off) parts of the power amp board. I got lucky by pulling the high voltage supply. The receiver started and switched the relais after 3 sec. I found nothing suspicious on the power transistors. They all measured identical. Neither did I see any burned parts.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcsPTl_qNh_AkFohitTSlIJmUvIOFTeW3uxeEcomMUJKm8Rya03kBoBwwQzE59KYWVOLtGSIJ36e-JznTdfXRxx4U85hzixZo8nyvLi4lL2FyCutt2NHYbIkIxOoaTERnLCk4jEURrAodd/s1600/IMG_1745.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcsPTl_qNh_AkFohitTSlIJmUvIOFTeW3uxeEcomMUJKm8Rya03kBoBwwQzE59KYWVOLtGSIJ36e-JznTdfXRxx4U85hzixZo8nyvLi4lL2FyCutt2NHYbIkIxOoaTERnLCk4jEURrAodd/s640/IMG_1745.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I studied the thing a little more and identified a cable with five lines as the protection signal cable, which goes to the main digital board.<br />
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When I pulled that, the receiver would again go into protection, albeit with a different blink code (1x per second).<br />
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Now it was time to get the service manual, which is only available for money. 12$ is not a bad price, so I got one and it proved to be worth every penny.<br />
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With the high voltage unplugged from the power amp board, the device could be booted in a diagnostic mode where it displayed the last protection error. After the steps in 3.2. shown below, you have to press the <b>Status</b> button on the device. The description is somewhat confusing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0XdMgTJIN9xhY_Ee-BSw1QpLDvpIln9yWU0d_8BGicqQQ4CxqEmyS-j_hJsGjfsFOjc57iskqAuNeOVsJ7apjDEzVqOWqAlj_x9IMR3iRTkiZDqs4AXMc3JtT_NFrTWQgxCX4q1o6AffE/s1600/service+mode.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="496" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0XdMgTJIN9xhY_Ee-BSw1QpLDvpIln9yWU0d_8BGicqQQ4CxqEmyS-j_hJsGjfsFOjc57iskqAuNeOVsJ7apjDEzVqOWqAlj_x9IMR3iRTkiZDqs4AXMc3JtT_NFrTWQgxCX4q1o6AffE/s640/service+mode.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
I did that and I got this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBVzacGyxdyvfj7VNaweJZsMB2AO_woB91SwoLL_hVIV3npI0lzbqoQwGCD9YMvrShgXaayBvdwuEgWQIxSqZPVfjDfphfcVn_7NXCawAnOpIbIJSm_CildSvXA2RuELpXZa8xvajFXECX/s1600/IMG_1746.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBVzacGyxdyvfj7VNaweJZsMB2AO_woB91SwoLL_hVIV3npI0lzbqoQwGCD9YMvrShgXaayBvdwuEgWQIxSqZPVfjDfphfcVn_7NXCawAnOpIbIJSm_CildSvXA2RuELpXZa8xvajFXECX/s320/IMG_1746.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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For ASO (no idea what this means), the manual states the following:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlzEFWWRbSsddEp-gAxPlmOVfCwypQRTPlMNEdJdk-YF-EGbLh-FLeiSgjCEwIFH8Y1LZ5BjahPLqQvgtZ113LHeFzZS_ODlqT_TVvsJXtUPnZ41GLwTG83myt7DwH_8e2lmeDUVSa-t8Z/s1600/aso+explain.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="164" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlzEFWWRbSsddEp-gAxPlmOVfCwypQRTPlMNEdJdk-YF-EGbLh-FLeiSgjCEwIFH8Y1LZ5BjahPLqQvgtZ113LHeFzZS_ODlqT_TVvsJXtUPnZ41GLwTG83myt7DwH_8e2lmeDUVSa-t8Z/s640/aso+explain.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
Now that did not make any sense. The receiver had never switched the speakers on and neither was there any speaker connected. However, it pointed me to the direction of the ASO protection circuit. Something had to be wrong with it.<br />
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Q7001 does a logical OR on all ASO signals supplied by the 7 power channels ASO circuits. The collector signal goes straight to the digital board:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhny0_iVY8CIsF8wUk9dChPVJVy2tmaoTjSqY4JwZUJJEVgDIcxTWonra2w0q9qTWf2Xot0H7rXuztab0MaMOnIJ14L_IDg5IndTc4706HB134q0I6JJXG4soFjcWhwgt_mTw38XKI0EXaG/s1600/ASO+switch+-+Copy.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhny0_iVY8CIsF8wUk9dChPVJVy2tmaoTjSqY4JwZUJJEVgDIcxTWonra2w0q9qTWf2Xot0H7rXuztab0MaMOnIJ14L_IDg5IndTc4706HB134q0I6JJXG4soFjcWhwgt_mTw38XKI0EXaG/s320/ASO+switch+-+Copy.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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The red line is high voltage plus. It made perfect sense that when this voltage is missing, the ASO protect signal would not go to the digital board. I confirmed through measurement that the transistor switched on during boot. So at least one of the channels must have had a problem.<br />
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Now about the actual ASO protection circuit (here: surround back right channel). The marked transistor senses excessive current and when switched on, R7744 passes a plus signal on to Q7001 on the previous image. This circuit is identical in all 7 channels.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF6vP0ocv9Tz_YUSQMm2BicVJV1vUJi9y9xzfL6T-kGJ7vgBEfYXjMKM-e0BhtPHtxNvymgkE6GPsXHTP27u_svKqCERbjTcxtnz3YdFmVFfDga-RSv-oZPOYd111Megf0DZy_JWP_jLIN/s1600/SBR+aso+detect.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="526" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF6vP0ocv9Tz_YUSQMm2BicVJV1vUJi9y9xzfL6T-kGJ7vgBEfYXjMKM-e0BhtPHtxNvymgkE6GPsXHTP27u_svKqCERbjTcxtnz3YdFmVFfDga-RSv-oZPOYd111Megf0DZy_JWP_jLIN/s640/SBR+aso+detect.png" width="640" /></a></div>
The inconvenience was that all the parts for the protection circuit were on the underside of the board. The unit is easy to remove, that was not bad at all. I decided to bend the legs of the power transistors to get access to the underside. Better than unscrewing all of them (horror!)<br />
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Now I checked all those 22k resistors, which go from the sensing transistor to the ASO switching transistor's base. And lo and behold, one was off by 3kOhms. The surround back right channel had a problem.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTPci3h4a1wOmTPPEfZQCrdLycjpa6rnz7RBtd71JdlnEFuZtKYvdsASnjHj9_kog9jZPN2eG6Qmdtavyxpnji4SZgTvK-03zaXJBk-ZkincS6NScMV84TmsI1ClM5wd1kMlPGepwhgHor/s1600/IMG_1747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTPci3h4a1wOmTPPEfZQCrdLycjpa6rnz7RBtd71JdlnEFuZtKYvdsASnjHj9_kog9jZPN2eG6Qmdtavyxpnji4SZgTvK-03zaXJBk-ZkincS6NScMV84TmsI1ClM5wd1kMlPGepwhgHor/s640/IMG_1747.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The only possible failure could have been Q7739, the sensing transistor. It measured ok with the diode tester, but it showed a lowered resistance between C and E. I unsoldered it and presto, the resistor R7744 measured normal again. My transistor tester did not recognize the <b>MMBT5551 </b>transistor at all. It showed me two resistors instead.<br />
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It is the little guy in the center of the image:<br />
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I replaced that sucker and the device went back to normal. A cheap fix, time-intensive and very rewarding. I learned a lot. I always like to improve things after I have fixed them, but in this case I didn't come up with anything. It is hard to tell what happened here as the power stage was still in good shape.</div>
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While I was at it I took the chance to adjust the idle current of the power stage as well. It is nicely documented in the manual. The SBR channel was off the most. Was that a coincidence or some further symptom of the incident? I don't know.</div>
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About the Marantz SR7007 in general</h3>
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I never had an AV receiver and I was curious how it worked. Well, the sound is considerably worse than my highly modified Benchmark DAC2, which feeds Focal SM9 active speakers. That was no surprise at all. I have seen its guts and I knew.</div>
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What did disappoint me was the image quality via HDMI. One might think that digital signals will not get compromised in digital processing. Not true. The passed-through image definitely lost sharpness to a degree I don't accept it. So that was no option. I am watching movies via my PC and its optical output worked well with the receiver.</div>
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The serviceability is not so bad, really. The service manual is very good. The boards, which have the highest expected failure rate (digital board and power amp board), are easy to remove. I think none of the receivers have a bottom lid anymore for an easy checking of the power transistors. They replace whole boards these days and don't mess around.</div>
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Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-70886017330980461622017-03-27T20:19:00.004+02:002021-05-21T00:53:13.578+02:00Replacement of Panasonic Plasma parts (DAF30, 30F131, RFUH25, DG302, RJP30H2A, RF1501N)<br />
The original Panasonic parts for the NeoPlasma series 30 and 50 are slowly going extinct. As I am a big fan of those devices, I was spending some time to find alternatives. I was able to source all parts either from AliExpress or DigiKey.<br />
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The parts listed here are susceptible to failure on SC or SN boards, respectively, and SS boards.<br />
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Use this information at your own risk! This is my result of doing research and experiments. So far, all of the Plasmas I have fixed are still running fine after 1-2 years. If the parts were fake, they would have blown up after a short time.<br />
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<b><span style="color: blue;">You can never be sure whether a chinese seller has the same quality parts on stock after some years. Take my tipps as a starting point. I wrote this article in early 2017</span>.</b><br />
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<h3><strike>
New Kid in Town? TGD40N40P</strike></h3>
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I found yet another potential alternative to all the IGBT transistors: <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-New-original-TGD30N40P-30N40P-LCD-plasma-MOS-FET/32844969348.html">TGD30N40P</a>.</strike></div>
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This type is manufactured in Korea and is around since 2012 according to the datasheet. I will test them soon. Stay tuned.</strike></div>
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I think that the small number of sources on Aliexpress is a good sign. The market does not yet seem to be swamped with crap copies.</strike><br />
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<h3>
<b>IGBT Transistor GT31F131</b></h3>
Can be replaced with <b>FGD4536</b>. That I know for sure, because I fixed a TX-P50GT30 and a TX-P55VT30 with those successfully. Alas, this device is also discontinued.<br />
My source has dried out. Stephen Foxall found a legit source <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/50-PCS-LOT-FGD4536-LCD-plasma-tube-is-commonly-used-TO-252/32669824142.html">HERE</a>.<br />
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<h3>
<b>IGBT Transistor DG302</b></h3>
<a href="http://www.datasheetcafe.com/dg3c3020cl-datasheet-300v-250a-igbt/">Datasheet</a><br />
This transistor seems to be the strongest in the bunch. 250A peak and 40A continuous current. It's good to have a bunch of them on stock. I don't know any exact replacement for this one. It's the gold nugget of the circuit. The FDG4536 might be a viable candidate. It is difficult to tell because the interval for the 250A peak current is not specified in the minimal data, which is available for the DG302. The FGD goes up to 220A for half-sine, pulse-width 1µsec and its switching times are even lower than the DG's.<br />
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In the meantime I have tested a 42VT30 with the FGD instead of DG and it runs perfectly fine. The FGD run at around 55°C with the original heat sink glued on top and that is totally normal.</div>
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I am happy to finally share a source of legit DG302 on <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Electronic-genuine-original-DG302-TO-263-package/32262736013.html">Aliexpress</a>! They measure exactly like the originals and one did work flawlessly recently in a 42VT30. </strike><br />
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<h3>
<b>IGBT Transistor RJP30H2A</b></h3>
<a href="http://www.ndatasheet.com/datasheet-frame/300/mdownload.php?id=718438">Datasheet</a><br />
Again, I fail to see the distinctive difference to the DG302 und 31F131 besides the 5A less collector current. I recon they could have built the whole thing with DGs exclusively. This type isn't used in the 50 series anymore. I have replaced them successfully with <b>FGD4536</b>. Even Panasonic uses an 31F131 instead in the scan board of the TX-P55VT30.</div>
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Generally, the problem with the data given in the sheets for the maximum pulse current is difficult to compare as the manufactures use different pulse lengths. The F131 is rated for 3µsec, the DG302 datasheet doesn't tell anything about it, and the FGD4536 is rated for <1µsec. This leaves the hobbyist with trial and error as the only option.</div><div><br />
<h3>
Diode <b>DAF30 (DA3DF30A)</b></h3>
<a href="http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets/panasonic/DA3DF30A.pdf">Datasheet</a><br />
Can be replaced with <b>STTH20R04G</b>. The datasheets are a perfect match. If you want more juice, the <b>STTH30R04G </b>will deliver it, it's a monster diode. I recently used STTH20 twice as substitute and it runs perfectly fine with normal temperature.<br />
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A STTH30 recently also worked fine in a 42VT30.<br />
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<h3>
Diode <b>RFUH25</b></h3>
<a href="http://rohmfs.rohm.com/en/products/databook/datasheet/discrete/diode/fast_recovery/rfuh25ns3s.pdf">Datasheet</a><br />
Why Panasonic is using this diode alongside the DAF30 is a mystery to me. The specs read the same. Maybe there is some subtle detail I don't understand. I think the STTH will fit here, too.<br />
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<h3>
Diode RF1501N</h3>
<div>
<a href="http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets/rohm/rf1501ns3s.pdf">Datasheet</a></div>
And yet another diode, which looks the same as the others. From the specs I cannot see any significant difference to the DAF30 and RFUH25. The DAF is a few nanoseconds quicker at recovering. They are dirt cheap and available from DigiKey or Mouser or even cheaper <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-RF1501-RF1501NS3S-TO-263/32515394351.html">HERE </a>on Aliexpress. The chinese source is legit. I have tested and used the diodes successfully.<br />
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<h3>
Control Chip BD8639FVM (SMD Marking D86)</h3>
Bought some from <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5PCS-BD8693FVM-HVTR-BD8693-D8693/32262502698.html">THIS source</a> without problems. Update: has been reported to have become a bad source.<br />
<h3>
Driver Transistors CPH5524 (SMD Marking 3Y)</h3>
Bought some from <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-CPH5524-TL-E-50V-3A-CPH5-CPH5524-TL-5524/32522132691.html">THIS source</a> without problems.<br />
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Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com75tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-92189528646672316822017-02-22T22:04:00.001+01:002018-04-28T00:40:15.944+02:00Dell 2709W Ultra Sharp - blue power LED constantly on - unresponsive - main board reflowedI have a DELL 2410 and I like it a lot. When I saw the defect 2709 on eBay for a reasonable price, I thought I could try a monitor for a change.<br />
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The defect showed as follows:<br />
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When plugged in, the blue power LED came on immediately and none of the other buttons reacted to touching. The device was totally unresponsive.<br />
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In <a href="http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=31873">this thread on Badcaps</a> I learned that reflowing the main board revived some of the sets. Before that I did my voltage check routine and found nothing suspicious. The 23.5V were there and all the secondary voltages looked good as well.<br />
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The right chip under the heat sink was warm, the left was stone cold and its clock wasn't oscillating. It seemed as if the right main BGA chip would activate the left after booting.<br />
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So, my brand new reflow controller got something to prove its value. It is a clever device, which controls a normal el cheapo pizza oven precisely via a feedback sensor, which I taped directly on the BGA chip.<br />
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Before I ran the standard profile, I poured some liquid flux under the chip. I don't know if this had a part in the success, but I thought it wouldn't hurt.<br />
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And voilà! The monitor ran flawlessly again. Hallo Frau Johansson!<br />
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During my research I came across an interesting software, which is able to reset the factory defaults in a monitor. It's called softMCCS and is available here: <a href="http://www.entechtaiwan.com/lib/softmccs.shtm">http://www.entechtaiwan.com/lib/softmccs.shtm</a><br />
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It identified my two monitors. First, the defect 2709 would be found, but DDC/CI was marked as "not supported". After the repair, it read "supported". So this is a nice tool to check whether the processor is working ok or something else is broken.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRkedPCzjiPMeAy5EClygdYdxvEI7uTtvrYYks26sqKgAGFxz5DfNAEehbrgakceHAGyktXXpAEvJK7ycXHL5SfArrttagK723wWvNT5cyrymQDiQ-bZ8mXIUx5gXWY0e9tetgpbubuOJ5/s1600/softmccs.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRkedPCzjiPMeAy5EClygdYdxvEI7uTtvrYYks26sqKgAGFxz5DfNAEehbrgakceHAGyktXXpAEvJK7ycXHL5SfArrttagK723wWvNT5cyrymQDiQ-bZ8mXIUx5gXWY0e9tetgpbubuOJ5/s640/softmccs.JPG" width="540" /></a></div>
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Rest in Peace</h3>
<div>
14 months later the error came back. A second reflow did not fix it. I also learned that the larger electrolytic capacitors did not like the oven heat. They were bloated afterwards. I'll remember that for my next reflow task.</div>
<br />Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-68176062077700341042017-02-05T22:25:00.001+01:002017-03-06T21:23:20.913+01:00LG 50LN5406 - flashes shortly - LED backlight defectI finally got my hands on one of the LG trouble children. The TV flashed the LG logo very briefly and then switched off again. The seller had a repair shop diagnose it and they said that the LED backlight was broken. Their repair offer was 320€. Wow. That's more than the used price of this device.<br />
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The LG of this age all die sooner or later due to one or more dead LEDs. The backlight in standard setup is too aggressively set up and they overheat.<br />
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I did not bother measuring anything and went straight on to a backlight repair.<br />
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Back cover off, nothing spectacular to see:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Kyr02czrNIxrtHwh5JntFKKdK_p_Eg87fs-SzL6uQ5E1WAo0vZXpZFuS4VeEV5KdRqHvhyphenhyphenyttSxRaarg_FZa1Lbc_-fEZJFx9WAQEtLCcG5YcGoWqqSYd1dmi7DMcmMKOkIo5PXMLYJZ/s1600/IMG_1688.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Kyr02czrNIxrtHwh5JntFKKdK_p_Eg87fs-SzL6uQ5E1WAo0vZXpZFuS4VeEV5KdRqHvhyphenhyphenyttSxRaarg_FZa1Lbc_-fEZJFx9WAQEtLCcG5YcGoWqqSYd1dmi7DMcmMKOkIo5PXMLYJZ/s400/IMG_1688.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Step 1: Remove the front bezel:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihzxAtljPcZVz6VfC6WEiVSQqKgSlGnejd4NmHHaiHSmjMx0frE5AJLesdQkW-jPEHEAuhFt6j1rp7WT7PTR_CXUFeZHaWYM6hTMS5EjMUPPgG5byOKCFOFsUtwR-P-QzGxSVYuTzehKCx/s1600/IMG_1689.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihzxAtljPcZVz6VfC6WEiVSQqKgSlGnejd4NmHHaiHSmjMx0frE5AJLesdQkW-jPEHEAuhFt6j1rp7WT7PTR_CXUFeZHaWYM6hTMS5EjMUPPgG5byOKCFOFsUtwR-P-QzGxSVYuTzehKCx/s400/IMG_1689.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Step 2: Unscrew the metal panel bezel, unplug the flat cables from the TCON board and carefully slide the buffer boards out of their seat:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjozg-Z9KCwq_QFUZxaqwBDabJQMVsGAgwVB1E2H97YbZFheRmEJGj8OKOl6WuBHsS69cha5bHKOnI_ltqa2ro6vjLm26g4KK8q8NuEZJiUFRRJtrDYBVhv_1jsDmHK89ry5GzzyYhZxKwb/s1600/lg-04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjozg-Z9KCwq_QFUZxaqwBDabJQMVsGAgwVB1E2H97YbZFheRmEJGj8OKOl6WuBHsS69cha5bHKOnI_ltqa2ro6vjLm26g4KK8q8NuEZJiUFRRJtrDYBVhv_1jsDmHK89ry5GzzyYhZxKwb/s400/lg-04.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Step 3: Remove the panel. This is the most delicate part of the operation. A 50 inch panel bends a lot when not handled correctly. I always wear gloves to avoid finger prints. Do not force a blade or similar objects between the panel and the frame to get a grip on the panel! A simple trick is to first unclip the black frame, raise it a little and then reach under the panel. That way it is easy to lift the panel with one arm diagonally supporting it from below and the other hand holding one edge to keep bending under control.<br />
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Be careful with stuck buffer boards. Make sure they slip out without force.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXYnwFboF7AFN5-5AY-mxMNpYnRARTTLO3fN77WO2fgdl01yw-mAcbjH-apK0MywhpwwZIXWaBG6h7PL6EDsuifR4Y-RXG6DSnRI9T12IEl6lLrvKMK_xFjGJJ9BcRp9vFVm0H32tJtl3u/s1600/lg-05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXYnwFboF7AFN5-5AY-mxMNpYnRARTTLO3fN77WO2fgdl01yw-mAcbjH-apK0MywhpwwZIXWaBG6h7PL6EDsuifR4Y-RXG6DSnRI9T12IEl6lLrvKMK_xFjGJJ9BcRp9vFVm0H32tJtl3u/s400/lg-05.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDGOh8ZlKxmBJbVwXm7UgfSawTGNH1Da1dA6mqRXkJ8rPM6hFSaQd2VVJLkWLGt78hJpIfU3NfnVzojzgiPHlsK31onBPjixzphgp1ref2m7cmZTaA-OvggTJMJoRf76x3j03SGXhkeGI9/s1600/lg-06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDGOh8ZlKxmBJbVwXm7UgfSawTGNH1Da1dA6mqRXkJ8rPM6hFSaQd2VVJLkWLGt78hJpIfU3NfnVzojzgiPHlsK31onBPjixzphgp1ref2m7cmZTaA-OvggTJMJoRf76x3j03SGXhkeGI9/s400/lg-06.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Step 4: Remove the panel frame and the foils. This is simple. Just wrap a tape around somewhere to keep them together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNyZ40f1tMddxM2XPFIIipntfOnCzwEMKnzUgGQ7bWLsE4T42kLKCJ7Id9edZKfnC8HQi3E83rErFf3BONXw8tohobkK0GXMSmieEuoIdpNM2RAO-SSucape3cOkJnY47UhJfjGbsgQJSz/s1600/lg-07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNyZ40f1tMddxM2XPFIIipntfOnCzwEMKnzUgGQ7bWLsE4T42kLKCJ7Id9edZKfnC8HQi3E83rErFf3BONXw8tohobkK0GXMSmieEuoIdpNM2RAO-SSucape3cOkJnY47UhJfjGbsgQJSz/s400/lg-07.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Step 5: Remove the reflector sheet to get access to the strips. The four plastic standoffs come of easily when you squeeze them with pliers from the backside.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAUtUIHYOomsW7J9TBuTtFI0CxPvQBq-Q_KM7Qa329jUG5jAhbYTL4RsEEiZDknbal8-Sc6D6zCptZW27Q5XOyeW6MdDk4DeuQWjU8Bf4DeGANW-3lkj_AVE-VCOe0r9aG1D7AZBXsSned/s1600/lg-08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAUtUIHYOomsW7J9TBuTtFI0CxPvQBq-Q_KM7Qa329jUG5jAhbYTL4RsEEiZDknbal8-Sc6D6zCptZW27Q5XOyeW6MdDk4DeuQWjU8Bf4DeGANW-3lkj_AVE-VCOe0r9aG1D7AZBXsSned/s400/lg-08.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Okay. Measuring time! A good strip settles at 27.4 Volts. The bad strip yielded 36.1 Volts and it was obvious why. One LED was dead.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga2fqXavZsAb_lCvsdZM0ELKHjYLCvT9Smocm05H3CYYdO9F8KxQoa4wWCcko7yDu0DuMJPqo_HmV479WbBdwfMusOqZgE8VxZw_jH9QlKXJ5bPMc_fXcX2XPdWCEmxuu5v6sFZOp-woPK/s1600/lg-09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga2fqXavZsAb_lCvsdZM0ELKHjYLCvT9Smocm05H3CYYdO9F8KxQoa4wWCcko7yDu0DuMJPqo_HmV479WbBdwfMusOqZgE8VxZw_jH9QlKXJ5bPMc_fXcX2XPdWCEmxuu5v6sFZOp-woPK/s400/lg-09.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4JfjYJpMdbRqIkTs1mWUqw_bO8kh-50ZMogNyR00KVDddpV1OhuEzHA9rvkWw-pK53LOEidF9LDETukojdRWu1xWWmx05Awm81138NE5TyXXuOWUEvqGhuqs3NHHoyF55P67WUE3RFNkw/s1600/lg-10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4JfjYJpMdbRqIkTs1mWUqw_bO8kh-50ZMogNyR00KVDddpV1OhuEzHA9rvkWw-pK53LOEidF9LDETukojdRWu1xWWmx05Awm81138NE5TyXXuOWUEvqGhuqs3NHHoyF55P67WUE3RFNkw/s400/lg-10.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I removed the right half of the strip with a spatula, taking care of the double-sided adhesive tape, which will be reused.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN-GocszGpewq-qvaYtWryV-wqybM0kxi8u6bC3ZsGRr_Q3HXXFrETjiinZJYZVCJD8hDz_1lodM0F_s2hNluotyCeDMfkDYmcoZXR9dmJAyrHp2KfxCiUQSSlRZSZm8lu3-cZobidABj1/s1600/lg-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN-GocszGpewq-qvaYtWryV-wqybM0kxi8u6bC3ZsGRr_Q3HXXFrETjiinZJYZVCJD8hDz_1lodM0F_s2hNluotyCeDMfkDYmcoZXR9dmJAyrHp2KfxCiUQSSlRZSZm8lu3-cZobidABj1/s400/lg-11.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Now, my new preheater got something to work on. The plan I had was to heat the strip up until the LED's solder would melt. Nope, not working. The material is too thick and a large copper trace shielded the heat from the top. Anyway, the lens came off very nicely under heat. The LED was so heavily damaged that it broke into crumbles. I removed what was left of it with the iron.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHgVxYY_PUn7eoa1QqPTWAcTNlUK_hEyZsgfmxAgok-J99h6rgOcsMwWtgfWQo8B24j1Dt7FYoXFE557mIEyVc3du2Pxa_M7nOIEkzKi1yPg9Zx1JXyYKZ_qVb8PesbiNatpJ6Z2fQmRJZ/s1600/lg-12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHgVxYY_PUn7eoa1QqPTWAcTNlUK_hEyZsgfmxAgok-J99h6rgOcsMwWtgfWQo8B24j1Dt7FYoXFE557mIEyVc3du2Pxa_M7nOIEkzKi1yPg9Zx1JXyYKZ_qVb8PesbiNatpJ6Z2fQmRJZ/s400/lg-12.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCyRs7Xofzh5MacGvHk9Rqrb9vMkUOiSENkWEYKAX0AjSFWwW9-NtYEEHlQvIE4gF6-IFRQvhPViZB7rgde26U7ah8o_AI31L4d-ZWDghvBgdz2bG_mT3D2C_oyW1HHpjrdlXBHvbRQxZD/s1600/lg-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCyRs7Xofzh5MacGvHk9Rqrb9vMkUOiSENkWEYKAX0AjSFWwW9-NtYEEHlQvIE4gF6-IFRQvhPViZB7rgde26U7ah8o_AI31L4d-ZWDghvBgdz2bG_mT3D2C_oyW1HHpjrdlXBHvbRQxZD/s400/lg-13.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This looked terrible. The cathode pad was burned black all over. It almost seemed as if the soldering went wrong on this one and it heated up too much.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje-n8ScxJu4BUj_raD5nM2b3BXH0VFgwPUYsfwmVLPzHfj-FfqGFRpr08OcmLzNgiEPBGORPuPOVS4LV2f173wHWyvTLc1j2YOhjpE46Xz9AfA6Ahfhj0iLLtTE0dSEGjbnh_Q7wgV649w/s1600/S20170205_0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje-n8ScxJu4BUj_raD5nM2b3BXH0VFgwPUYsfwmVLPzHfj-FfqGFRpr08OcmLzNgiEPBGORPuPOVS4LV2f173wHWyvTLc1j2YOhjpE46Xz9AfA6Ahfhj0iLLtTE0dSEGjbnh_Q7wgV649w/s400/S20170205_0001.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I cleaned it with a fiber glass pen and some Isopropanol:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEholT3TUZrfaqCkgBLvZ6W8_70w7FefxSN381Cd00Xf8ASttK-kHYuG_P6870593zeCZMD2VkyBIYajQBX15TE2skkKv23BaKpWwEn6WWPz7wRhHf_zXs4jAi7EBjIEHMtL1ckdSgEXkAan/s1600/S20170205_0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEholT3TUZrfaqCkgBLvZ6W8_70w7FefxSN381Cd00Xf8ASttK-kHYuG_P6870593zeCZMD2VkyBIYajQBX15TE2skkKv23BaKpWwEn6WWPz7wRhHf_zXs4jAi7EBjIEHMtL1ckdSgEXkAan/s320/S20170205_0003.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This looked much better. Next time I will remove the sticker, too, before I work on the LED :-P<br />
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The <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SEOUL-High-Power-LED-LED-Backlight-1210-3528-2835-1W-100LM-Cool-white-SBWVT120E-LCD-Backlight/32751482984.html">SEOUL 2835 3V 1W</a> fit perfectly. I put some leaded solder on the pads and the strip back on the heater. With just a short heat shot from the top with my heat gun at 260°C the LED snapped into place by itself on the molten solder.<br />
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<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LG-Innotek-LED-LED-Backlight-1210-3528-2835-1W-100LM-Cool-white-LCD-Backlight-for-TV/32249901038.html">Click here to buy the original LEDs</a>. The LG Innotek LEDs perform identically to the SEOUL, but some might feel more comfortable with the exact match.<br />
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I glued the lens with plastic glue. Super glue did not quite do the job.</div>
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And here we are, all shiny and new! The new LED was indistinguishable from the others:</div>
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Evangeline Lilly is looking happy!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfjmGw80QMQimOwPIZwmTHbkbuV7ELXJCCGebKpWGSxYtYpdQ0pv8mvYKtSu2UF0VHKALISKoqtz0BWLvxY__psg0aR_dlwX81T3f67o2A-78L3LbsfJYnAdp5rem39FwC_wwQPdSAATf1/s1600/IMG_1705.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfjmGw80QMQimOwPIZwmTHbkbuV7ELXJCCGebKpWGSxYtYpdQ0pv8mvYKtSu2UF0VHKALISKoqtz0BWLvxY__psg0aR_dlwX81T3f67o2A-78L3LbsfJYnAdp5rem39FwC_wwQPdSAATf1/s400/IMG_1705.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<h4 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
What to do to prolong the life of this TV</h4>
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<span style="background-color: yellow;"><b>Turn the backlight intensity down to 50%! </b></span>The image is still good enough and the LEDs are substantially less under stress.</div>
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Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com41tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-55660629318259186232017-01-17T21:18:00.000+01:002017-01-17T21:18:26.674+01:00Fake chinese GT30F131, RJP30H2A under the microscopeIn <a href="http://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2016/12/how-to-test-plasma-igbt-transistors.html">this blog</a> I reported my experience with a chinese supplier. I came to the conclusion that both IGBT transistors were fake by measuring and visual inspection. Let's put them under the microscope!<br />
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First, the original RJP30H2A. Notice the extra notches to the left and right.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQZK6wzBVueyBu7esQy4fWXDYD8Ndg1Xven2r2w2chDtNfzgyrJJd5BLn0vrOb7rFtOjd7NuyO2CGy-jFrmKRR-lvTSpQD6CrMM4j_hX3hyphenhyphenEIEv8vMMxyQbI5bEPU6HDzhUSeZKSS2tNor/s1600/rjp+orig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQZK6wzBVueyBu7esQy4fWXDYD8Ndg1Xven2r2w2chDtNfzgyrJJd5BLn0vrOb7rFtOjd7NuyO2CGy-jFrmKRR-lvTSpQD6CrMM4j_hX3hyphenhyphenEIEv8vMMxyQbI5bEPU6HDzhUSeZKSS2tNor/s640/rjp+orig.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now the fake. The notches are missing and the character font is different. Also, there are traces, which look as if the package has been sanded to remove the original marking and re-labeled.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXmEwzJvDygzGf-KcnWZYKSY6YHVOMT5N9fvCtj0lPHS0w8ls3mtQARhzsCvpPJis_tkbRu3uXRtxBJViRTrTcfwQVROmgBvuZ6dxjXucKx3TeWwRy2YKkEKFXvFnY8WqwsLfOlRz6nFXF/s1600/rjp+fake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXmEwzJvDygzGf-KcnWZYKSY6YHVOMT5N9fvCtj0lPHS0w8ls3mtQARhzsCvpPJis_tkbRu3uXRtxBJViRTrTcfwQVROmgBvuZ6dxjXucKx3TeWwRy2YKkEKFXvFnY8WqwsLfOlRz6nFXF/s640/rjp+fake.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The 30F131 original. Everything is crisp and precise.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7R-CWVhLBW7mzVYK_xL1MiJEkJzfbNVC9Fi_kYR_unJOUPeHCVJ90pt9sL4gfQhm00oCPKjYjy68tnM86ugnOJzZSLVhWpgneY-3m63-N3IyBTlDm3taQ_pOd7_hX1JH6E6e97kwCEWnJ/s1600/30F131+orig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7R-CWVhLBW7mzVYK_xL1MiJEkJzfbNVC9Fi_kYR_unJOUPeHCVJ90pt9sL4gfQhm00oCPKjYjy68tnM86ugnOJzZSLVhWpgneY-3m63-N3IyBTlDm3taQ_pOd7_hX1JH6E6e97kwCEWnJ/s640/30F131+orig.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The fake shows very strong signs of sanding and the labeling is sloppy and imprecise.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfDthV9J3HSNCyvJQOQ4j8y9ZJ9vlsx2t_FM9OrwAhOKwj9pAvGld2Vz-2gcZC4yMUBHHcGKU_DA67-zMn0z_hk69Z3Uaci8zaMv9ZRhaNWj33ZbCuiFbC-l6mt3MnBnv0mOQL0Yhkn1rY/s1600/30f131+fake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfDthV9J3HSNCyvJQOQ4j8y9ZJ9vlsx2t_FM9OrwAhOKwj9pAvGld2Vz-2gcZC4yMUBHHcGKU_DA67-zMn0z_hk69Z3Uaci8zaMv9ZRhaNWj33ZbCuiFbC-l6mt3MnBnv0mOQL0Yhkn1rY/s640/30f131+fake.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
The 30F131 may look different, depending on the batch. The imprint "MX 18" and larger character size are actually valid, but the overall quality is just ridiculous.<br />
<br />
For the images I have used the <a href="http://www.andonstar.com/e_products/digital-microscope-V1-1.html">Andonstar A1</a>. It is a decent device for its price.Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-89461096629998549952017-01-16T00:49:00.000+01:002017-01-17T18:25:38.740+01:00Panasonic TX-P50GT30 - 7 blinks - TNPA 5335 y-sustain - FGD4536TM used instead of 30F131, RJP30H2AI love my GT30 and when I found another one on eBay I grabbed it. It had the same 7 blink disease. See my <a href="http://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2015/05/panasonic-tx-p50gt30e-once-more-7-blink.html">earlier blog post</a> about all the details.<br />
<br />
Due to my disappointing attempt (see <a href="http://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2016/12/how-to-test-plasma-igbt-transistors.html">this blog post</a>) to get some genuine IGBT transistors (<b>30F131</b>, <b>RJP30H2A</b>) from China, I settled with the <b>FGD4536TM </b>instead, which was mentioned in various blog posts in the Badcaps forum.<br />
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I got the FGD from DigiKey. They are already discontinued and not on stock at Mouser anymore. It is a good idea to order a large batch. As plasma TVs are not manufactured anymore, this type of device becomes obsolete.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhej6ijw5Qik8XXtliVcBVoU3Gz1yCDNCqSRa2dRnUIP00vtgVSZLt5bUaDy_1pupVy-VmB7aUNo4lF0UwJAg23LHQf7X3Sk0nIRUm88bGBMaUsuu-nb6_KibKnXPg8J3PdhL1H8lXQI4gm/s1600/pana-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhej6ijw5Qik8XXtliVcBVoU3Gz1yCDNCqSRa2dRnUIP00vtgVSZLt5bUaDy_1pupVy-VmB7aUNo4lF0UwJAg23LHQf7X3Sk0nIRUm88bGBMaUsuu-nb6_KibKnXPg8J3PdhL1H8lXQI4gm/s640/pana-01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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As you can see, the FGD are much smaller. The <b>RF1501 </b>in the center also came from Aliexpress and it is genuine and working ok. The <b>DAF30A </b>on the far right came from a scrap board.<br />
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I also ordered a <b>STTH20R04G-TR</b> diode from DigiKey, which might replace the difficult to get and fake-prone DAF30A someday.<br />
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I also tried something new to resolve the loose screws problem. I observed that the screws, which have an extra bracket were perfectly solid when I unscrewed them. Why? Because they had no solder under them which floats under pressure. So I cleaned the critical one next to the DAF30 diode and some others, too.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkJEyJBeNoFDJJ5jyN32BLQAUNLkydvUCggLC_pHThKk2U10QXxAStgrVQU7nt0zC3zlWMms65d1N_pCh7xqiVkLy_K3k7IaevO9g0M0_eU8bQ-s9-TydEmjG4ed_Qz50dY9YlCJZVoFzR/s1600/pana-02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkJEyJBeNoFDJJ5jyN32BLQAUNLkydvUCggLC_pHThKk2U10QXxAStgrVQU7nt0zC3zlWMms65d1N_pCh7xqiVkLy_K3k7IaevO9g0M0_eU8bQ-s9-TydEmjG4ed_Qz50dY9YlCJZVoFzR/s320/pana-02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoytquhjrmWrx4iWLw_mUCt4raDmDNisg4nuiPdmJ2-EXOiSlc9Fi1WW5LXWaT_SiMIok0jZoKAqDSFvSgtMEm3wiA0PKRQ3n0KqKhngrjE0QyArVNQwhKWgH8O4lx8jlFHfreSIz3DQ_M/s1600/pana-03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoytquhjrmWrx4iWLw_mUCt4raDmDNisg4nuiPdmJ2-EXOiSlc9Fi1WW5LXWaT_SiMIok0jZoKAqDSFvSgtMEm3wiA0PKRQ3n0KqKhngrjE0QyArVNQwhKWgH8O4lx8jlFHfreSIz3DQ_M/s320/pana-03.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The most popular suggestion is to use spring washers. I did that too in my previous repairs, but I think the remedy is simpler. The thing with the washers is that you need longer screws, which must not be too long to avoid drilling them into the panel.<br />
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Currently the device is running its burn-in. The FGD IGBTs have settled at around 48°C at 22° room temperature and open back cover. This is roughly the same temperature as the three 30F131, which are left on the board. Some say that the FGD run cooler. I cannot confirm this.<br />
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I'll also watch the screws. I left some with solder on the holes to have a comparison to the cleaned ones.Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-87734826122812082752017-01-07T15:22:00.007+01:002020-07-08T11:11:22.357+02:00Backlight LEDs - types, sources, tools, techniques<font color="#f4a900"><b>Please note that the links to the Aliexpress shop may be invalid at any time. This shop sometimes has the LEDs, other times it doesn't.</b></font><div>
<h4>
Direct backlight LED strips</h4>
<i>LED strips are a common technique these days. The outstanding Philips 42PFL9803 once had a huge number of LEDs in a matrix. <a href="http://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2016/08/philips-42pfl9803-panel-fault-case.html">See this post</a>. Its image brightness and homogeneity were second to none. Nobody does that anymore. It is too expensive</i>.<br />
<br />
<b>Size</b><br />
The LEDs used for direct backlight are 28x35mm up to 35x35mm, thus their size code can be 3528, 2835 or 3535<br />
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<b>Voltage</b><br />
The smaller LEDs (2835 or 3528) are usually 3 volts, 1 watt.<br />
The bigger 3535 types can be 3V 1W up to 6V 2W.<br />
<b>The size is not a sufficient criteria for choosing LEDs.</b><br />
<br />
<b>Polarity</b><br />
To my surprise, not all LEDs are equal. All have a small and a large contact pad. However, the cathode (minus) and anode (plus) can be either one.<br />
In the following text, I use<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><b>L-</b> = cathode (minus) on large contact</li>
<li><b>L+</b> = anode (plus) on the large contact</li>
</ul>
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When a LED with opposite polarity is used, it will not sit in the original center and the plastic lens has to be offset from its intended place. This can cause difficulties with the homogeneous light emission and the repaired LED might get visible on the screen.<br />
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<b>Contact shape</b><br />
Some types can have S-shaped contacts. They will not fit on rectangular-shaped solder pads and the other way round!<br />
<br />
In the following text I use<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><b>S</b> = S-shaped</li>
<li><b>R</b> = rectangular shaped</li>
</ul>
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<br />
<b>Top marking</b><br />
Also the top marking does not reliably indicate the cathode, like it would be with ordinary diodes. Manufactures do as they please.<br />
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<h3>
3V Types</h3>
<div>
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000290646058.html">Lextar 3030 3V 1W</a> shape R, polarity L-</div>
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I found those in a Panasonic TX-P55DXX689. The image is that of a defect LED, I have not ordered any of them, yet. The dent at the right edge is normally not there, I did that.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglunkaiUapbrZDT4yj8EmNkT37cUjE8o7OG6KOl-RNcAW3RjTNUcT3kQh_H6CCKv1B5PZkOjF2lsNoQhmlfZJrshJogf-AB0KNyq4qMGHbx8l6sIe-UMByXA5Bi_Bvdxk27z4heIus45r6/s1600/P1001620.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1569" data-original-width="1600" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglunkaiUapbrZDT4yj8EmNkT37cUjE8o7OG6KOl-RNcAW3RjTNUcT3kQh_H6CCKv1B5PZkOjF2lsNoQhmlfZJrshJogf-AB0KNyq4qMGHbx8l6sIe-UMByXA5Bi_Bvdxk27z4heIus45r6/s320/P1001620.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SAMSUNG-LED-Backlight-High-Power-LED-1W-3537-3535-100LM-Cool-white-LCD-Backlight-for-TV/32612202958.html">Samsung 3535 3V 1W</a> shape S, polarity L-<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihHuYyS43Bv6sRjnrR9vA_uxJf5dgsgy2lle2EZdNcnFSyQwjoQfTzIYTp2F_tg0PYta9FaCQWJgnGm9-oHyaoHcDo_0KFUI2b_IDXbufdO3LPrkgGptju_1lpHUQV25cU1fQ4RM6PWfRT/s1600/samsung+3535+3v.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihHuYyS43Bv6sRjnrR9vA_uxJf5dgsgy2lle2EZdNcnFSyQwjoQfTzIYTp2F_tg0PYta9FaCQWJgnGm9-oHyaoHcDo_0KFUI2b_IDXbufdO3LPrkgGptju_1lpHUQV25cU1fQ4RM6PWfRT/s320/samsung+3535+3v.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UNI-LED-Backlight-1210-3528-2835-1W-86LM-Cool-white-LCD-Backlight-for-TV-TV-Application/32373237960.html">JUFEI 2835 3V 1W</a> shape R, polarity L-<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDYK0Kp7Y7CgKi3n4fufp1IL1WkGprurDmeovGO1fpXUFRYyU5NlyQbezOEaJZW6NaaIwCJV6hwwt7yFKioGW4cnOJDCfvwMo5_-QEHfS461GbUyIMQTNcOjH13eqWybiO-sk_rSOS7ZeG/s1600/jufei+3528+3v.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDYK0Kp7Y7CgKi3n4fufp1IL1WkGprurDmeovGO1fpXUFRYyU5NlyQbezOEaJZW6NaaIwCJV6hwwt7yFKioGW4cnOJDCfvwMo5_-QEHfS461GbUyIMQTNcOjH13eqWybiO-sk_rSOS7ZeG/s320/jufei+3528+3v.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SEOUL-High-Power-LED-LED-Backlight-1210-3528-2835-1W-100LM-Cool-white-SBWVT120E-LCD-Backlight/32751482984.html">SEOUL 2835 3V 1W</a> shape R, polarity L+<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijQOEjXIKRwR6Ua6Ddz1rWqUbRUTkSh3wHOeWEHSGZeJsvLU8amTYAKSEo-ZA_g7i15TlkHeL7YhQ7Fle8MswLIb__P8bm0AfBCtDT8Z176GL71BEHdtWXeqoRBkraDPmYyiPZ4deYpTug/s1600/seoul+3528+3v.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijQOEjXIKRwR6Ua6Ddz1rWqUbRUTkSh3wHOeWEHSGZeJsvLU8amTYAKSEo-ZA_g7i15TlkHeL7YhQ7Fle8MswLIb__P8bm0AfBCtDT8Z176GL71BEHdtWXeqoRBkraDPmYyiPZ4deYpTug/s320/seoul+3528+3v.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LG-Innotek-LED-LED-Backlight-1210-3528-2835-1W-100LM-Cool-white-LCD-Backlight-for-TV/32249901038.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.oAb8o1">LG Innotek 2835 3V 1W, shape R, polarity L+</a><br />
Identical parameters and light as the SEOUL. I think those are the original LEDs in the 50LN5406, for example.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvjVQHjGJQhu5t15RK4jg4uyKtT-xnsPrdTjI5Fzy3GccfTqzVJBlZFbgUohTqRNxsVzV8945RZeH8Q06s__MLTpZBoy3xuJklhssKe1-zG3BIDha0TwHbDCQLqwV55wIg96Kf79CqcZzs/s1600/lg+2835+3v.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvjVQHjGJQhu5t15RK4jg4uyKtT-xnsPrdTjI5Fzy3GccfTqzVJBlZFbgUohTqRNxsVzV8945RZeH8Q06s__MLTpZBoy3xuJklhssKe1-zG3BIDha0TwHbDCQLqwV55wIg96Kf79CqcZzs/s320/lg+2835+3v.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
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<br />
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UNI-LED-Backlight-High-Power-LED-1W-3537-3535-90LM-Cool-white-LCD-Backlight-for-TV/32498642457.html">UNI 3535 3V 1W</a> shape R, polarity L+<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUJP6-qmZeqxWfRh8sLp2HA8a-xqP0_ue5wjbDAOHfSbfjtcOLMfreAwq7q0qttX7T99x3Ol4PdHU9dmxpNK2i8ItbkMFPzmmA_Z_QrmJMjOd7wVLvZYp0h_K-Xu27nMGq5kwB9hyphenhyphenslF8M/s1600/uni+3535+3v.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUJP6-qmZeqxWfRh8sLp2HA8a-xqP0_ue5wjbDAOHfSbfjtcOLMfreAwq7q0qttX7T99x3Ol4PdHU9dmxpNK2i8ItbkMFPzmmA_Z_QrmJMjOd7wVLvZYp0h_K-Xu27nMGq5kwB9hyphenhyphenslF8M/s320/uni+3535+3v.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LUMENS-LED-Backlight-1W-3V-3535-3537-Cool-white-LCD-Backlight-for-TV-TV-Application-A127CECEBUP8C/32758784655.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.oAb8o1">LUMENS 3535 3V 1W</a> shape S, polarity L-<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqmbATlehG7W1huvXGShbx4U61EhBjQJYcajSzK8EJmTsSJKsx9CfySiHrMxZPoVduD8bWu00vDWmt2Cqy1_c_WQqCWh47AnP7qbVo4KhzK1X3VT9IoU7QXsJKiBpXamcwGN1ilE1XKsRI/s1600/lumens+3535+3v.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqmbATlehG7W1huvXGShbx4U61EhBjQJYcajSzK8EJmTsSJKsx9CfySiHrMxZPoVduD8bWu00vDWmt2Cqy1_c_WQqCWh47AnP7qbVo4KhzK1X3VT9IoU7QXsJKiBpXamcwGN1ilE1XKsRI/s320/lumens+3535+3v.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h3>
6V Types</h3>
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<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SEOUL-High-Power-LED-LED-Backlight-2W-3535-6V-Cool-white-135LM-TV-Application-SBWVL2S0E/32572673611.html">SEOUL 3535 6V 2W</a> shape R, polarity L-<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG9eyOZycMtC0KEqVkgxeS0X2y_iCMqCQmiDTsPU6_5K_iaP-3OWM2mKDeJ6IzRWPhSxIb45Mq7Qd0ME1V1LCLMOt2XvcfRItkcR-FjupKry5_rg6foDMDCvgg3IXDp-AGx55Xw_RJQ0NB/s1600/seoul+3535+6v.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG9eyOZycMtC0KEqVkgxeS0X2y_iCMqCQmiDTsPU6_5K_iaP-3OWM2mKDeJ6IzRWPhSxIb45Mq7Qd0ME1V1LCLMOt2XvcfRItkcR-FjupKry5_rg6foDMDCvgg3IXDp-AGx55Xw_RJQ0NB/s320/seoul+3535+6v.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LG-Innotek-LED-LED-Backlight-2W-6V-3535-Cool-white-LCD-Backlight-for-TV-TV-Application/32643527631.html">LG Innotek 3535 6V 2W</a> shape R, polarity L+<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcQKRwp6SSpJAG0ty6HP1EQpOOMqd_RooC7qmMtHctdrQE5JNcgdE4NFDPppvb6CgfS7Z4zDYYiWJK9PocDVW6zyMJmI9mAWS-nS2m3p2pHOePm7y1qQUK21bj-IEi-ZRwdiYe1IZYo0Gt/s1600/lg+3535+6v.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcQKRwp6SSpJAG0ty6HP1EQpOOMqd_RooC7qmMtHctdrQE5JNcgdE4NFDPppvb6CgfS7Z4zDYYiWJK9PocDVW6zyMJmI9mAWS-nS2m3p2pHOePm7y1qQUK21bj-IEi-ZRwdiYe1IZYo0Gt/s320/lg+3535+6v.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SHARP-CORPORATION-LED-Backlight-High-Power-LED-1-2W-6V-3535-3537-Cool-white-LCD-Backlight/32741743826.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.oAb8o1">SHARP 3535 6V 1.2W, shape R, polarity L-</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC5xxHkL7CrVGnP1IbdusuYvJCJY5tEgvv42ghBNu4qEsLuYxgBVE5eFBP9yXz40l8XsNJHiq02jW8xqc-Xl674Z3m4SHPAkM6ynmgtBBMy9bNOlA9Muznx0cnbZMOjtbGyopwZLatLjcm/s1600/sharp+3535+6v+1.2w.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC5xxHkL7CrVGnP1IbdusuYvJCJY5tEgvv42ghBNu4qEsLuYxgBVE5eFBP9yXz40l8XsNJHiq02jW8xqc-Xl674Z3m4SHPAkM6ynmgtBBMy9bNOlA9Muznx0cnbZMOjtbGyopwZLatLjcm/s320/sharp+3535+6v+1.2w.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h4>
How to know the most popular LED types</h4>
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If you like to stock up on LEDs and don't know where to start: go with the masses. See what others have bought:</div>
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<a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/store/top-rated-products/936602.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.AkWfJ9&tracelog=topselling_tab">Most popular LEDs</a></div>
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<h4>
Testing</h4>
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The best tool I know is the LED backlight tester from China. It is available on Aliexpress, here for example: <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/0-300V-Smart-Fit-Voltage-Backlight-Tester-Tool-for-All-Size-LED-LCD-TV-Laptop/32717488325.html">Latest (model GJ2 <b>C</b>) backlight tester</a>. It is a real time saver.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR_mvzJYscLOgoJc9sntHZR3PeXu4ga-MvX3zDiyGvorjDuuhf8v1dcJVYTtJAy5wqjvd_DRZ3d484Ec8umf1JLfqUVEh251-u_4Qhbl1UDbnANOV1VVhzfFkCf7AdnG5LDPgMfLkDK27V/s1600/IMG_1547.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR_mvzJYscLOgoJc9sntHZR3PeXu4ga-MvX3zDiyGvorjDuuhf8v1dcJVYTtJAy5wqjvd_DRZ3d484Ec8umf1JLfqUVEh251-u_4Qhbl1UDbnANOV1VVhzfFkCf7AdnG5LDPgMfLkDK27V/s640/IMG_1547.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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There are older models (GJ2B) around, which are cheaper.<br />
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As of end of 2016 the number of different tester model has increased. I can only speak about the aforementioned model. It is fully automatic and adjusts the voltage by itself. It tests a single LED in one moment and a full panel right after that. Tester with a potentiometer where you have to adjust the voltage yourself are much too inviting for user errors.<br />
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This design is also available as a high voltage (>1500V) CCFL lamp tester: <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/TD-Brand-Newest-All-Size-CCFL-Lamp-Tester-LCD-TV-Laptop-Backlight-Tester-Output-Current-Voltage/32642695074.html">Lamp Tester</a><br />
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<h4>
Soldering</h4>
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For my first LED repair I used a hot air gun. That is ok, when you keep the temperature low enough to avoid melting the transparent plastic. However, swapping the LED would be much quicker if the solder on the strip were molten while pulling the old LED off and putting the new one on.<br />
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Shop Jimmy presented a LED rework station on YouTube once. It seems as if this very cool and cheap gadget is out of stock. They have blocked access from outside the US, so I cannot tell for sure. While looking for an alternative on AliExpress, I found the<b> KADA 853B</b> preheater:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyxAmUgX4c77mo5avrKA2kICLv4j38dAR7ZBWUczbriAN4TzYT74yPUUb2BRkmEj53RZTiqV0XHTe9VjXNEigJ9ncO-i0v3FBGVpoQMq49Gs5maaKc1aEthCYrO9d-xVcbta_-uWAs2Er8/s1600/heater-01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyxAmUgX4c77mo5avrKA2kICLv4j38dAR7ZBWUczbriAN4TzYT74yPUUb2BRkmEj53RZTiqV0XHTe9VjXNEigJ9ncO-i0v3FBGVpoQMq49Gs5maaKc1aEthCYrO9d-xVcbta_-uWAs2Er8/s640/heater-01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It is basically a hairdryer in a box. It is a rough little machine. It vibrates like hell, because they did not decouple the noisy fan from the case. I guess I'll have to do that myself.</div>
It is not powerful enough to heat a multi layer PCB with large ground planes quickly up to the melting point. I tried that on a small TCON board. They call it a BGA preheater, which is ridiculous. You will not want to solder BGAs with a device that has no temperature profile!<br />
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As it turned out in my first LG backlight repair (see <a href="http://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2017/02/lg-50ln5406-flashes-shortly-led.html">this blog post</a>), it was not possible to melt the solder in acceptable time with the device. Nevertheless it is useful as a preheater and with a little support from a hot air gun, soldering LEDs is very quick and not stressful for the LED.</div>Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-81481697435902777562017-01-01T18:25:00.000+01:002017-01-02T14:26:41.977+01:00Philips 48PFK6409 - no standby LED - fell asleep by itself - revived with on-device "ON" switchThis must have been the weirdest case I ever had. I did not bother publishing it first. But after I was able to help with another case about a completely different Philips model (42PFL6008K) in the <a href="http://www.repdata.de/wbb2/index.php?page=Thread&threadID=81146">Repdata Forum</a>, I thought I'd share my experience as it seems not to be such a rare problem after <br />
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all.<br />
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The symptoms are:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Device suddenly stops working and would not switch on via the remote.</li>
<li>Unplugging does not help.</li>
<li>The standby light will not light up when plugged in.</li>
</ul>
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The solution is: RTFM! I opened the device, measured all the way through it and found nothing. However, in the schematic of the power supply there was this ominous "ON" switch. I could not find any switches on that bugger. So I consulted the user manual.<br />
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And here is what you need to know:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLsbY4BUhGLZqHG33xVA5LkJ1VGOUVSLkGipdclSoWU4KTvAa-dY9anLh3l-sZzphGH1yjxbtaL7zS9B9ZlMEGYPsLeqla4JXQpRCRfqynnm5zxgh-SsniSdIlzivEdrsEIoKJSr8mEKfZ/s1600/manual.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLsbY4BUhGLZqHG33xVA5LkJ1VGOUVSLkGipdclSoWU4KTvAa-dY9anLh3l-sZzphGH1yjxbtaL7zS9B9ZlMEGYPsLeqla4JXQpRCRfqynnm5zxgh-SsniSdIlzivEdrsEIoKJSr8mEKfZ/s1600/manual.JPG" /></a></div>
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So, are the users too stupid? Of course not. The TV obviously switches itself to a state as if the user pressed the button on the device himself, which he never did! The chain of cause and effect is not understandable and the user is left clueless, suspecting a defect.</div>
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We all have experience with device buttons, which are mirroring the function of remote control buttons. The on/off button on the device would do the same as on the remote. Not the case in those Philips models! The TV can be switched off to consume a minimum of energy. So it has three states:</div>
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"low energy sleep" <--> press button on device <--> "standby" <--> press remote on/off <--> "running"</div>
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Unconventional power supply architecture</h4>
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The power supply did not have a dedicated stand-by circuit. Instead, the 12V output is throttled down to 6.3V in stand-by and some downstream regulators took care of the rest.</div>
Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5757177436614513342.post-11218862817747522752016-12-30T21:42:00.000+01:002017-01-17T21:20:12.058+01:00How to test Panasonic plasma TV IGBT transistors - GT30F131 and similar, RJP30H2A, DG302In Panasonic Plasma TVs the Y-Sus (aka SC/SN) and Z-Sus (aka SS) boards contain a number of high current, high voltage IGBT transistors of different types. Those are not easy to test, because they are hybrids. They have a MOSFET gate, but a bipolar emitter and collector.<br />
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The usual FET testing technique is to pre-charge the gate, not touch it again and then measure the source-drain resistance, which must be low with a charged gate. That doesn't work with IGBTs. Neither does the classic bipolar testing method work.<br />
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To properly test IGBTs, we need a test fixture. This circuit simply applies a variable voltage to the gate and the emitter-collector current goes through a resistor. We measure the gate voltage and the E-C current.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIO5kDCsPpiLuiHHJav5Cl24Tb2csSRGdbtCWxyR9PE0KeYQ78tV_WZGp1puBrS1JFOsmZVaIQ1jHG_Qg5xcBZzEPyKQibQtXHDR2ns49my4eWjeuf5mlvW_XdSOJT4i8g5IYbOzO50PcF/s1600/test+circuit2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIO5kDCsPpiLuiHHJav5Cl24Tb2csSRGdbtCWxyR9PE0KeYQ78tV_WZGp1puBrS1JFOsmZVaIQ1jHG_Qg5xcBZzEPyKQibQtXHDR2ns49my4eWjeuf5mlvW_XdSOJT4i8g5IYbOzO50PcF/s320/test+circuit2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This battery-driven version is good for quick testing. To make comparisons between different devices and to put some stress on them, use a lab supply and decrease the collector resistor.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin5HHVm6sTtZR-PfF2zQDEMGp8PcUNkIufv4PwbrvJbF9uYA5VzOYQJLFMWReB6jXdfjMIwhIX0ybWO0dkZpnCycFk3hUM7JKG21H23W6jb_3GljIcZztDSWVrse-FZ5Gboqf61emMU_VR/s1600/igbt-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin5HHVm6sTtZR-PfF2zQDEMGp8PcUNkIufv4PwbrvJbF9uYA5VzOYQJLFMWReB6jXdfjMIwhIX0ybWO0dkZpnCycFk3hUM7JKG21H23W6jb_3GljIcZztDSWVrse-FZ5Gboqf61emMU_VR/s320/igbt-01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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To test the SMD IGBTs I quickly solder the gate and the emitter to the board. The collector is connected to the tab and a gentle push on top of the device connects it to the large pad.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw39I8oTEqnU59nKGmxmhYvQ3eYHUDr5vzrIIqQH4LBKZS0BoJNtn5qt5ke4HNg924wdeycR5v5MecPTlI9hkcOzSda07Q0M7VZu37ovC3uqw1TYZlL1T6C5mukWDVOTCkLtrlTjsjLTbH/s1600/igbt-02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw39I8oTEqnU59nKGmxmhYvQ3eYHUDr5vzrIIqQH4LBKZS0BoJNtn5qt5ke4HNg924wdeycR5v5MecPTlI9hkcOzSda07Q0M7VZu37ovC3uqw1TYZlL1T6C5mukWDVOTCkLtrlTjsjLTbH/s320/igbt-02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now let's check the three types.<br />
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The 30F131 starts opening at slightly under 4V GE (gate-emitter) voltage. It is open at 5V.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN7cMnlNTwEH8rhBILkShrh4JCFFyKl4aQEccAUMk9wk6biRszVBBm3cVB7LQoyUTxbgH2RPnxA77xWjogKkRQkAZ5QsLdvvXDjYWdHMlDFMB8I9u0h-kd9mvGiwVWy-Q84ijZhffZ1AJr/s1600/igbt-03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN7cMnlNTwEH8rhBILkShrh4JCFFyKl4aQEccAUMk9wk6biRszVBBm3cVB7LQoyUTxbgH2RPnxA77xWjogKkRQkAZ5QsLdvvXDjYWdHMlDFMB8I9u0h-kd9mvGiwVWy-Q84ijZhffZ1AJr/s320/igbt-03.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvQV-j18yWulDgKOhw3u12dUBU3sG7winSvEAJoDN2kJciiA6GlbOhN6rXu04P8FSFIgJSrRZQUm2_FQNYFGJ17yyN_NgVXQlvNF6YdLSpisGbhGRZiD_0LmmJA6OKGS0HlU-t1EpTh0Oj/s1600/igbt-04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvQV-j18yWulDgKOhw3u12dUBU3sG7winSvEAJoDN2kJciiA6GlbOhN6rXu04P8FSFIgJSrRZQUm2_FQNYFGJ17yyN_NgVXQlvNF6YdLSpisGbhGRZiD_0LmmJA6OKGS0HlU-t1EpTh0Oj/s320/igbt-04.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioybJWQVhUbDy0w58lbrTtQfoZZFYinGJN9asOxj0SoEx4VH9l5gaKHZYGTY-p9BfhIYIoJqZHrjSNur_EqBgKtw3ntkO4USgDFOllNDXh6e_sGJFaRrIEAzjHV9DWc_ZztXQC0xf7pxbW/s1600/igbt-05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioybJWQVhUbDy0w58lbrTtQfoZZFYinGJN9asOxj0SoEx4VH9l5gaKHZYGTY-p9BfhIYIoJqZHrjSNur_EqBgKtw3ntkO4USgDFOllNDXh6e_sGJFaRrIEAzjHV9DWc_ZztXQC0xf7pxbW/s320/igbt-05.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The DG302 starts opening just above 5V, it is open at about 5.8V.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8DTMa-XxWQ5Udvd4Jx9iwelApxDamGi69ryLwkH9YcmzAZUgUmfwRpSqpWyk-JUoJ3JpgzWZevppLJl8RE_eKQHVFNhC4LrQ_v1R2X9k4wVldi4ZGRqo0YhTEdP2To5Xzg-CRo8NAWe7N/s1600/igbt-09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8DTMa-XxWQ5Udvd4Jx9iwelApxDamGi69ryLwkH9YcmzAZUgUmfwRpSqpWyk-JUoJ3JpgzWZevppLJl8RE_eKQHVFNhC4LrQ_v1R2X9k4wVldi4ZGRqo0YhTEdP2To5Xzg-CRo8NAWe7N/s320/igbt-09.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The RJP30H2A starts opening at about 4.2V and is open at 5V.</div>
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As you can already see, those IGBTs have quite different characteristics.<br />
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I spent a considerable time studying the offers on Aliexpress. Some were easily detectable as fakes. When the character font used for labeling is obviously wrong, the numbers are not engraved into the casing or the stamp in the center is missing or different, it must be fake. The pictures of the seller I ordered from seemed ok. Either they were more careful faking it or I get lucky :-)<br />
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I have a pending delivery of the 30F131 and RJP from China. I am going to check against fake devices with this test technique. The tests above have been conducted with original parts. I always keep some originals as a reference.<br />
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<h4>
Update: Fake IGBTs</h4>
The RJP from China are obviously fake. Neither do the look the same, nor do they measure like the original. I will not bother using them to avoid further damage to the board.<br />
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Don't buy them from <b>"Chinese Super Electronic market". I recon, to get originals you will have to spend a few dollars per piece.</b><br />
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The F131 don't look the same, but they behaved ok in the measurements. I am still not confident to use them.<br />
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I also ordered the driver transistors (SMD 3Y) and the control chip from that seller. I'll test those later.<br />
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I've put the fake transistors under the microscope. Please see <a href="http://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2017/01/fake-chinese-gt30f131-rjp30h2a-under.html">this blog post</a>.<br />
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<h4>
C-E Reverse Break-Through Voltage Test</h4>
Another very revealing test is to measure the reverse break-through voltage between emitter and collector. I use my DUOYI DY294 tester for this.<br />
<ul>
<li>The orginial RJP has 230V. The chinese fake only 45V(!!). I'll dump that garbage right into the trash.</li>
<li>The original F131 has 110V, so does the chinese. Maybe those are not so fake.</li>
<li>The original RF1501 diode has 375V, the chinese is right on the spot. Forward voltage is identical, too. So, those are most likely legit. They also look absolutely identical.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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</li>
</ul>
<h4>
RF1501 diode is ok</h4>
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In the meantime I fixed another 50GT30 with one of the RF diodes and they are working flawlessly. I can recommend the source for those.<br />
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-RF1501-RF1501NS3S-TO-263/32515394351.html</div>
Alpengeisthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01348018296057576427noreply@blogger.com15