The original Panasonic parts for the NeoPlasma series 30 and 50 are slowly going extinct. As I am a big fan of those devices, I was spending some time to find alternatives. I was able to source all parts either from AliExpress or DigiKey.
The parts listed here are susceptible to failure on SC or SN boards, respectively, and SS boards.
Use this information at your own risk! This is my result of doing research and experiments. So far, all of the Plasmas I have fixed are still running fine after 1-2 years. If the parts were fake, they would have blown up after a short time.
You can never be sure whether a chinese seller has the same quality parts on stock after some years. Take my tipps as a starting point. I wrote this article in early 2017.
I found yet another potential alternative to all the IGBT transistors: TGD30N40P.
This type is manufactured in Korea and is around since 2012 according to the datasheet. I will test them soon. Stay tuned.
I think that the small number of sources on Aliexpress is a good sign. The market does not yet seem to be swamped with crap copies.
My source has dried out. Stephen Foxall found a legit source HERE.
This transistor seems to be the strongest in the bunch. 250A peak and 40A continuous current. It's good to have a bunch of them on stock. I don't know any exact replacement for this one. It's the gold nugget of the circuit. The FDG4536 might be a viable candidate. It is difficult to tell because the interval for the 250A peak current is not specified in the minimal data, which is available for the DG302. The FGD goes up to 220A for half-sine, pulse-width 1µsec and its switching times are even lower than the DG's.
In the meantime I have tested a 42VT30 with the FGD instead of DG and it runs perfectly fine. The FGD run at around 55°C with the original heat sink glued on top and that is totally normal.
You can never be sure whether a chinese seller has the same quality parts on stock after some years. Take my tipps as a starting point. I wrote this article in early 2017.
New Kid in Town? TGD40N40P
IGBT Transistor GT31F131
Can be replaced with FGD4536. That I know for sure, because I fixed a TX-P50GT30 and a TX-P55VT30 with those successfully. Alas, this device is also discontinued.My source has dried out. Stephen Foxall found a legit source HERE.
IGBT Transistor DG302
DatasheetThis transistor seems to be the strongest in the bunch. 250A peak and 40A continuous current. It's good to have a bunch of them on stock. I don't know any exact replacement for this one. It's the gold nugget of the circuit. The FDG4536 might be a viable candidate. It is difficult to tell because the interval for the 250A peak current is not specified in the minimal data, which is available for the DG302. The FGD goes up to 220A for half-sine, pulse-width 1µsec and its switching times are even lower than the DG's.
In the meantime I have tested a 42VT30 with the FGD instead of DG and it runs perfectly fine. The FGD run at around 55°C with the original heat sink glued on top and that is totally normal.
IGBT Transistor RJP30H2A
DatasheetAgain, I fail to see the distinctive difference to the DG302 und 31F131 besides the 5A less collector current. I recon they could have built the whole thing with DGs exclusively. This type isn't used in the 50 series anymore. I have replaced them successfully with FGD4536. Even Panasonic uses an 31F131 instead in the scan board of the TX-P55VT30.
Generally, the problem with the data given in the sheets for the maximum pulse current is difficult to compare as the manufactures use different pulse lengths. The F131 is rated for 3µsec, the DG302 datasheet doesn't tell anything about it, and the FGD4536 is rated for <1µsec. This leaves the hobbyist with trial and error as the only option.
Diode DAF30 (DA3DF30A)
DatasheetCan be replaced with STTH20R04G. The datasheets are a perfect match. If you want more juice, the STTH30R04G will deliver it, it's a monster diode. I recently used STTH20 twice as substitute and it runs perfectly fine with normal temperature.
A STTH30 recently also worked fine in a 42VT30.
Diode RFUH25
DatasheetWhy Panasonic is using this diode alongside the DAF30 is a mystery to me. The specs read the same. Maybe there is some subtle detail I don't understand. I think the STTH will fit here, too.
Hello Hermann,
ReplyDeleteFirst may I say how much I enjoy your blog. Your writing is interesting and clever and I've learned a lot from reading it. Thank you for making it, you've helped me and many other people I am sure.
Quick question if I may - Working on a TC-P50ST30 in the States. Twice I've ordered the diodes, IGBT and the other parts in the repair kit on ebay and twice it has failed as soon as I turned on the power. I'm thinking it's bad parts (they were from the same source) but I'm wondering if there's something else I should be looking at? The buffers and power supply are fine. Thanks for any input.
Thank you Joseph!
ReplyDeleteProvided you have thoroughly measured all the diodes and large transistors for shorts, there is no reason to fail another time if all replacement parts are legit. The chance that the kits are crap is very high. There are no legit GT31F131 on aliexpress and I recon that Panasonic has none left, either. Have you compared the kit parts against the originals under a looking glass? I bet they look different.
I forgot one thing. You need to check the buffer chips as well. If they have a short, they may kill the scan circuits. But I have yet to see a Pana 30 series with a buffer failure.
DeleteThanks Hermann, I appreciate your answer. The pieces I received have almost faded writing on them so I'm skeptical that they are real. I'll try to source the parts you mention above in your updated post. I bought by accident a known good scan board for a TC-P55ST30, tempted to scavenge parts from it but will hold off while I look for real components. I have one issue, I was using hot air to remove and replace parts and now I have a loose 0402 part, looks like a capacitor. Hunting for where it goes, I guess I wasn't paying close enough attention.
ReplyDeleteHi Hermann,
ReplyDeletei just read your Blog. And with some Luck i can make a tx-p50st33e Tv working again that a friend of mine gave me to mess around with :-) It used to blink 7 times... i was able to reduce it to 6 times :-D now i replace the DG302 and maybe... i have a new C64 Monitor :-D
That sounds great :-D Have fun with the bread box on 50 inches!
DeleteOk that doesn´t work like i wannt :-) I changed the Parts and it starts blinking 7 times again... so i figured out that Q621,622,6233 are got shortend after this. I changed these parts as well and now its blinking 6 times again... with one little "beeb" sound at the start up? I thing i need your advice :-) But the Breadbox is running fine by the way :-D
DeleteI really don't know. Remote diagnostics is difficult. I never had a 50 with 6 blinks. Rinse and repeat and use proper parts. The 6 blink I described in detail in my blog. For the 42 though, but the concept is the same.
DeleteThx for your reply :-) Then i will try to check the parts on the powersupply board. Like in your blog maybe there are some shortend FET´s too.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteAs mentioned elsewhere, the DG302s seem to be good copies but I've had 2 fail and as usual that blows the RJP30H2As. At one point I had a board firing up with these DG302s in place of all the usual 6 (3x30F131 and 3 RJP) but was getting 6 blink shutdown from Recovery High even though all IC's checked out ok.
ReplyDeleteTonight I replaced the DG302s in the RJP positions with FGD4536s and all is working normally. (for now!!)
A bit more on that:
DeleteI added heatsinks to the DG302s in Q401/2/3 as the last failure here was after 6hrs running. The heatsinks got up to 40C in my garage (10C) which seemed rather high, as everything else was running just warm.
Today I received another SC from a smashed screen set. This SC had been repaired with authentic 30F131s at all 6 'ex-failed' IGBT positions. I fitted identical heatsinks and put the board in the same TV. The heatsinks only get up to about 24C, so I conclude further that unfortunately these copy DG302s are likely to fail.
Have also found that for £3ea TV repair businesses can still get 30F131s from Panasonic UK.
I had measured my scan boards as well. Around 50° seems normal at room temperature with a bright picture (the white scrollbar for example). For a semiconductor this is no problem at all. 70° would not be critical, either. I think your DG just cannot cope with the current in the long term.
DeleteIndeed...agree. Given that they don't seem to be as efficient at current switching as the 131s, and cause an energy recovery issue when in the RJP positions, they are less than great. One way or another I now have two SC boards and two '30' TV's running, so much appreciate your help which started my learning journey on these.
DeleteAnother vendor to avoid: GT30F131 from Kokey Electronics, via UTSource and advertised as Toshiba and engraved similarly to Toshiba with their logo are confirmed as fakes (by Toshiba) and as with all fakes, fail in use almost immediately.
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing. I am pretty sure that there is no genuine F131 available from China. I was surprised about my good DG302 after a number of bummers.
DeleteHi Hermann. Thanks for these informative blog posts! I ordered some DG302 from the seller you recommended and they look quite different from the originals - font and location of indentations as well as package shape. Are you saying they are copies but seem to measure and work like the originals? Or have I received something different than you did?
ReplyDeleteYou can never be sure with the Chinese. The ones I got last year looked and measured exactly like the originals and the repaired TV still works. Sometimes though, the batches may look different. My most important measurement was the breakthrough voltages between emitter and collector. I have this funky chinese device for that (see my post about tools). When those measurements were identical, I was confident to have an original.
ReplyDeleteHi Hermann,
ReplyDeleteI used your guidelines on this website to repair a 50 inch VT30.
It worked perfectly for about 10 minutes and ended with a big bang.
I have replaced:
Q401,Q402,Q403
Q421,Q422,Q423
D401
D421
Q501,Q531
IC501, IC502
6pcs 7R5 resistor.
I couldn't measure any shorts afterwards.
Q403 unsoldered itself, so it must got extremely hot. and Q421,422,423 are exploded.
What's the best way to start again? I probably have fake parts from Aliexpress, but I don't know which ones caused the problem.
I order for:
Q401,401,403 - GT30F131
Q421,422,423 - FGD4536
or should I try to use the FGD4536 instead of the GT30F131?
I'm working in the audio sector and never worked on plasma tvs so im not sure how critical which parts are.
I'm very thankful for any advise! :-)
Or could someone point me to the correct parts?
I am pretty sure that the 30F131 were garbage. You mentioned that one of them got so hot that it unsoldered itself. Good parts run at around 50-60° celsius. The FGD can replace all others. As FGD seem to get copied already, I looked for yet another alternative and found the TGD30N40P.
Deletehttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-New-original-TGD30N40P-30N40P-LCD-plasma-MOS-FET/32844969348.html
I have ordered a bunch of them and I am going to test them in my 50 inch.
Bonjour, merci pour le blog c'est une vraie aide pour effectuer une bonne réparation sans fautes et bien finalisée. merci tout le monde grâce à vous ma TV refonctionne comme au premier jour.
ReplyDeleteHi Hermann , I saw you ordered the TGD40N40P on Ali. Did you test them already? I got trouble getting good FGD4536TM. I tried HKinventory.com in the past , via that way you get access to the factory's....
ReplyDeleteHi Mark. They are looking good. Proper industrial packaging, not just in a sloppy plastic bag like the copies used to be. I did not have time to try them, yet.
DeleteHi Hermann ,
DeleteThanks for your comment. I ordered them also and got a 42VT30 test machine to test these little components. Will let you know.
Did you stop with this blog? I really liked reading the threads.
Hi Mark,
Deletewell, the TV repair hobby has stagnated. There are no interesting objects out there anymore. Crashed screens and buggy mainboards, that is the majority these days. Furthermore, the prices for working, used TVs are practically the same as for defect ones. It is ridiculous.
I might dig into specific cases like the Philips QFU just to explore. I won't regularily fix TVs anymore, though.
Hi Hermann ,
DeleteI still buy the plasma tv's defective in the Netherlands and Germany. I dont repair LED tv's , just not worth it because i cant give the guarentee they keep working. I only repair plasma and they sell pretty good because in the Netherlands alot of people still want a plasma.
If you can get them cheap it is still interesting.
I just repair them for the money and interest ofcourse but
Hi again Hermann,
ReplyDeleteJust gained a 7-blink TX-P50VT30 for £60 to complete my collection (GT and ST fixed)!
Interestingly, although it had been working OK for some time, the YSUS had already been repaired and all six IGBTs are Infineon/International Rectifier G4BC30K. These are still current, but no mention of use for plasma sets in the datasheet.
One had exploded and all six now s/c, so perhaps not a good substitute; but there were 3 out of 7 loose earthing/mounting screws.
Not 'plugging them' but GTV Watford in the UK claim to have all remaining stock of genuine panasonic 30F131 and RJP30H2A, so I'll be using those (their shop is on eBay).
Hi Hermann ,
ReplyDeleteTGD40N40P is not a good substitute. Repaired a 46GT30 with the parts , it turned on but after a few mins the image got purple. ( sparkles ). I turned it off before the parts exploded haha.
Will return to the FGD4536TM.
Can't remember the detail, but believe this can be caused by line voltages out of spec, which can happen after board or component change. Have you checked the three voltages on the YSUS board? ( Vscan, Vsus and Va, all have test points on the board).
DeleteOh dear, thanks for the feedback, Mark! Purple picture means that the charge voltage is too low. The transistors most likely overheated and had too much resistance.
DeleteStephen, as we cannot do any adjustments on the boards, I never bothered measuring the voltages when the TV worked.
I think I'll do an experiment in fall with the TGD. In summer time, I just don't have the appetite for that work.
I know GTV Watford. It is a serious shop. I once bought a genuine repair kit there.
Hermann is right. Vsus voltage is on the powerboard which needs to be around 215/216V. Picture was fine at first but after a few minutes the picture got purple which was time to turn off the tv before the big bang occurs and more parts on the board fail.
ReplyDeleteOrdered FGD4536TM from a factory which i know are fine. Costs a bit more but first class product.
Hello Mark, I also need some FGD4536TM having a TNPA5335 with 7 blinks (caused by loose screws near Q660 and Q661). Read about hkinventory.com above, but this seems to be a B2B-platform not usable for private citizen, isn't it?! Or do you know an alternative source?
DeleteWant to avoid aliexpress (china,etc.)...
Regards, M.E.
I ordered FGD4536 components, but when I received them I see they are much smaller than the original MOSFETs. Will they still work or was I given a false product?
ReplyDeleteThey are smaller. This doesn't mean that they are not as powerful. IF they are legit originals, of course. Bad copies will blow up.
Deletehi Hermann,
ReplyDeletedo u know somebody still owning tx-p55vt50e? i had to replace A board and found one from GT50 model. it's almost same except lack of rs323 port and fan control module. i've resoldered suffix jumpers to correct position as in my original board but it's not enough and tv still startup as p50gt50e. i need to modify EPROM peek same way as i was doing for S20 to change it to G20 and activate DLNA.
regards
piotr
Hi Piotr,
DeleteI don't know anyone, sorry.
Hi Hermann and Mark,
ReplyDeleteWhat is currently the best source to get FGD4536TM from? Having a TNPA5335 with 7 blinks (caused by loose screws near Q660 and Q661). Read about hkinventory.com above, but this seems to be a B2B-platform not usable for private citizen?!
Want to avoid aliexpress (china,etc.)...
Regards, M.E.
I haven't ordered any FGD since then. As of today I cannot recommend any source.
DeleteServus Hermann,
DeleteFirst thanks for your reply!
Is there an alternative IGBT for FGD4536TM available? TGD40N40P seems not to be suitable as I read above...
Regards, M.E.
Servus, all I know is written in this blog post. I am going to test the TGD in my 50gt30 once the weather is bad and days become short. :-)
DeleteI bought 50 FGD4536 from this seller via AliExpress and so far 9 have worked perfectly.
Deletehttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/50-PCS-LOT-FGD4536-LCD-plasma-tube-is-commonly-used-TO-252/32669824142.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3da24c4dYCJWpv
Hello Stephen,
DeleteThanks for your reply!
I think I'll try this seller and order soon... I'll report here!
Thanks and Regards, M.E.
Hello Hermann,
ReplyDeleteHaving another question: Can a SC-board TNPA5335-AG be replaced by the same with an other suffix -BH, -BG,... and vice versa? Are they compatible to each other?
This could be an alternative way, should the repair fail...
Kind Regards
M.E.
I think they are. You need to check the number of transistors that are in parallel (bigger panels may have more) and the configuration of the large spring coil and the surounding big capacitors. Those are sized specifically for one panel type. Just take the ones from the original board. I have done this operation once with success.
DeleteHello Hermann,
DeleteI asked because - if repair fails - I want to replace my complete SC-board TNPA5335-AG with an -BG or -BH or ... having a 50GT30E plasma-model.
The question is, what's the difference between versions AG vs. BG vs. BH and so on?
As I described. A plasma screen is like a huge capacitor. The scan board is working in resonance with it to recover the charge and the large coil and surrounding caps are tuned to a specific panel. Larger panels or 3D models require more juice, therefore some of the diodes or transistors have more in parallel.
DeleteServus Hermann,
DeleteCould not find a reliable source defining the differences of AG, BH, etc yet. One seller in Aliexpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Used-Original-100-Test-SC-board-TNPA5335-series-BH-BG-AG-TNPA5335BH-Parts-Accessories-TH-P50ST30C/32898825810.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.6bd32e0e5offFz) declares that these versions are replaceable; but who can trust this statement?!
Also a thread on Badcaps discussed this question without a result. The service-manual says
TNPA5335 has been used in T*-P46/50/55 VT30/GT30* (2011 models). Currently I would claim, that using such board from a 55"-device in a 50" should work (because it has enough power for the PDP), but using from a 46" in a 50" could cause problems.
Would you agree?
Kind Regards,
M.E.
I don't agree. As I said, there are two factors. Power and tuning to the capacity of the panel. More powerful boards from larger or 3D panels may basically work (meaning: not break), but the energy recovery will not function properly.
DeleteA technician in china gave following answer now:
DeleteThe two versions of the TNPA5335 (BA BL) board are typically used on 55-inch TVs. (BG AG) is usually used on a 50-inch TV. (BH AH) is usually used on a 46-inch TV.
...for all who want to know ;-)
In 55VT50 SS1 board i'm fighting with there is 30F132 both on north (2) and east (4). i've also 50VT50 SS1 and now another 55ST50. every have different set of transistors. they are basically marked as 30F132 but have also some other additional numbers like:
ReplyDelete037" 1152 (55ST50)
002" 1210 (50VT50)
050" 1243 (55VT50)
does anybody have datasheet for this pice?
i can confirm the 55" versions have same set of caps + coils except 55ST50 version have one cap less and only 2 east 30F132. in 50" version the big caps are 250v260uF instead of 300v220uF in 55" and also coil is marked N instead of M.
my issue is that the colour accurancy is bad and screem seems washed with pink dots appearing especially on white background. also the green led on SS1 board is dimming when issue appears (as sometimes at beginning it's not, just after few seconds or minutes).
the set i'm trying to fix is 55VT50 with faulty SS1 as described above. first i've bought just TPNA5670 which on pictures seems quite similar but it happen to be 50VT50 version. with caps and coils different. initially it was working without any modification. but than i tried to improve it and decide to move one missing north 30F132 from faulty board + some missing heatsinks. after that the issue was back on new board. as 50VT50 have also some other ref voltage i've also change this section and moved some resistors to lower VeRef. but whatever i made the issue was there. i've found another exact SS1 version board on sale and go for it. unfortunately seller was not fair and instead i've received 55ST50 version which differs as follows:
- one big cap missing (2 instead of 3)
- 2 north heatsinks missing
- only 2pc of east 30F132 037" 1152 vs 4pc 050" 1243 in original
the rest seems to be identical (resistors values and so)
now the question what to do with it? should i send it back to seller and wait for other exact SS1 board or use as it is (with potentially lower current load possible) or try to add those 2 missing east transistors. if i only be sure the source transistors are good...
please advice.
Hi Piotr,
Deletefirst, you need to measure the F132 transistors. They must not have shorts. Using one from a broken board on a working one was not a good idea.
I have repaired a 50 series SS board once and I also realized that there are various versions.
https://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2016/02/panasonic-plasma-tx-p50stw50-7-blink.html
My idea would be to use a proven working board and configure it with measured(!) good parts until it matches the original.
i've checked transistors against shorts, they are not. i supposed it could be faulty even there is no shorts (overheaten) or the issue is somewhere else. could u guess what might be reason of D254A led dimming based on circuit diagram? when there is no issue then this led light strong green, if it dims then pink dots appears and colours are washed. after some more bright/dynamic picture the tv shut off and 8 blinks. maybe it's the driving signal from some recovery buffer which is a reason (A-board)?
Deleteor when SOS8 line is high then the led dims. but then why this is intermittent and sometimes there is no issue? i've checked procedure for 8 blinks and the there are no shorts on plasma panel. anyway the procedure in my case goes to false results as it points to SS2 board, but that one is perfect fine (i've already collected 5 of those) - there are only 3 diodes on it which might be faulty rest is passive elements. could it be there are some ICs on FPC? like in LED and OLEDs?
the original board got lighting so that A-board was dead. the lighting comes via hdmi port and the switch is integrated into soc. i can see signs of overheating on main SoC (Peek Pro4). the a-board was replaced with GT50 version and i've moved fan driver circuit from original board. the fans are working now, there is alarm after some minutes when not connected, so it seems as fan circuit is working properly after assembly. also i don't think this is some 15V current load on a-board after adding fans as when disconnected there is issue as well.
this set makes me mad but i'm desparate to fix it as this is last mohican of beloved plasma era.
I'm afraid I cannot follow you anymore ;-) Details overflow...
Deleteok I'll try to use simple sentences.
Deletedoes those plasma panels have some ic build in and not visible until panel is disassembled? on sm it's called "panel sustain electrode" so I suppose it's electrode only.
second, looking at any Panasonic SS schematic there is FPC protector line. this line is also connected to led line, and further to west keys q41,42,51,53 which are driven by recovery L and H. from panel side this protector line is connected to pin1 of every fpc going to panel sustain electrode. if I understand it correctly when this line goes low then there is no voltage to drive led anymore and also west keys shut down protecting panel against voltage/current overflow. so, led dim means there is something wrong with voltage to panel. assuming panel has no active ics build in just electrode and every pin1 not shorted (electrode ok) this trace to problem with sustain voltage. which trace some active transistor/diode is faulty.
On the SS side there are no chips. Only the address buffers are built into the flat cables.
Deletehi,
Deletelet me follow up above issue with 8 blinks due to SOS8 line down and pink dots, washed colour picture. i've managed to buy similar unit with broken screen, replaced SS board and issue still there. so next was A-board and that make the fix. 55VT50 recovered and now hanging my saloon.
some moth later i've not resisted to try fix another 42GT50. this time 12 blinks indicating sound line issue. but instead replacing opAmps i've taken close up on former A-board with pink dots. i've removed the fan control part of circuit (not needed for 42") and do some trials with heating main Soc. during that trials i've found that some force on heatsink do the work and issue gone. that means either some cold joint in SoC bga or some path in multi-layer circuit board. what i've done was to mount the A-board with the screws not fully fastened to the TV and then preheat it to some 400 degrees at the north east part and then fasten the screws. after cooling down the TV was fixed and this last since than for like 6 month already. another great plasma recovered hanging my bedroom. not much rooms left without :) i still got one spare A-board with faulty opAmp...
Interesting hack! :-) 400°C was a little much though, you were lucky not to kill the chip. Problems with the 50 series are slowly popping up. The SS board 8 blink seems to be one of the standard failures.
Deletethose were Chineese degrees :) ymmv, just care so nothing slide or pop out
DeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteDoes anybody know a good source for diode STTH30R04G? Couldn't find on Aliexpress, yet. Or is there an further alternative/replacement? I could order by Mouser, Digi-Key, bit the shipping cost is too high for getting only some items...
You can use any other high-speed diode with the same reverse voltage, break-through voltage, and forward current rating. This is the least exotic part in the device.
Delete@M.E. HKInventory.com does supply to normal buyers like you and me. I just wrote something stupid in the company area. I think i wrote badcaps haha.
ReplyDeleteIt is only usefull if you repair many plasma's , i ordered like 150 pieces.
Hı Hermann
ReplyDeleteThanks for your share.
My 42st33e TV have 7 red light like yours. I used RF1501 for d401 and 421. For Q401,402...406 i used FGD4536. But still 7 red. Check them and They are not blow up. What did i do wrong? (Sory my english)
Did you take a look at this post?
Deletehttps://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2015/04/panasonic-tx-p42st30e-tnpa5330-board.html
I don't know what went wrong.
Thnx i try again
DeleteHello @all,
ReplyDeleteThis year didn't start well. On New Years Day 2020 it happenned again, while watching the classical New-Years-Concert from Vienna ;-(
The in 2018 repaired original SC-board, gone to 7 blinks again. I dismounted this from the TV and recognized, that Q401 was not properly soldered (Gnd plate). Should be easy to repair...
So I decided to replace this SC with a second spare/replacement SC-board which worked fine in 2018, but after mounting into TV I get also 7 blinks. When disconnecting the buffer-boards (SU,SD) and jumpering SC50 (isolation test mode), the board starts successfully (SC-onboard green LED get's on; no 7 blinks). There are no shorts reading on any of the ribbon connectors from both buffers to PDP. Re-connected the SC to the buffers and removed SC50 jumper, start up fails with 7 blinks again...
The also no shorts reading on any of the D- or Q-labelled parts; all diodes and IGBT seem to be OK.
On original SC:
After re-soldering the Q401 IGBT, I found the diode D421 (DAF30A) was dead; I exchanged the component.
But the story goes on:
Now it's interesting, that BOTH SC-boards start up successfully within the buffer-isolation-test (disconnected SU/SD, jumpering SC50) without 7 blinks and the green on-board LED on SC turns on.
But: BOTH SC-boards don't start up regularly with connected buffers and 7 blinks of death is back - with BOTH!
Can 7 blinks indicate also, that one or both buffer-boards are bad?
Or is there a problem within the energy-recovery-section on BOTH SC?
If yes, which components could be faulty? Where ist the recovery-section located on SC?
Who can help me?
Kind Regards, Martin
P.S.:
You can read the chronology of the Plasma here on BadCaps:
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?p=935168
...especially the last few posts from 2020
Currently I investigate in my second (spare, replacement) SC-board. I exchanged switcher IC (IC502) and a double transistor (Q531). Both components bought in 2018 from source/seller as of your replacement-parts-blog.
DeleteThis board starts up resulting in 6 blinks now (both buffers are still isolated).
Have to explore more and more... ;-(
Read about Q451 issues in the other blog (Panasonic TNPA5330 SN board 7 or 6 blinks): I measured no short (beep) between Gate-Collector, but such values with Ohm-meter:
156 kOhm between Gate-Collector
0.480 MOhm between Gate-Emitter
and nearby R451 resistor with 5.7 Ohm.
None of these items currently de-soldered.
Replace Q451 nevertheless? Also Q551 and IC522 nearby?
Any hints?
Martin
To be brutally honest to you: I have no idea :-) I don't repair the Plasmas anymore, simply because there are no interesting opportunities theses days.
DeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteto repair a TNPA5335 with dead 30F131s and rjp30h2a I found this info here. The diodes on the boards seems still Ok, but I will replace them anyway. One source for FGD4536 on Ali from link above is still alive, but as I understood sells only fakes today. Other sources / alternatives seems not existing today.
So I think about buying a repair kit. Is there any recommendable one?
Dieter
Hi Dieter,
Deleteyeah, it is unfortunate that Chinese dealers are not reliable in the long term. The plasma parts are dying out, the industry does not need them anymore. My trusted parts dealers in Europe are:
https://spares2repair.co.uk/
http://www.lcdparts.net/LCDC2.aspx
http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/gtvwatford
http://www.lcd-plasma-parts.co.uk/
http://www.plasma-lcd-led-onderdelen.nl/
http://www.ohmsupplies.co.uk/
Thanks for recommendations. For practical reasons I have ordered by Ersatzteil Service TV via Ebay, packed as original parts from Panasonic. Comparable prices to shops from UK above. TV is running again.
ReplyDeleteHopefully my tweaking for bad ground contact is reliable on the long term.
Thank you so much for your blog about this, it has been a huge help. I have a 2011 era TH-P50U30Z 50" Plasma, which was my sisters, and it failed about a year ago. I just got it on the weekend to have a play with.
ReplyDeleteWhen you power it on the PSU relays click and the LED does a rapid flash, but then it all shuts down, no diagnosic flashing at all.
I tested the PSU board and that appears to be fine, I then unplugged the SC board, and I got further into the boot up. The SC board was shorted across the SC2 connector. The SC board in this is the TNPA5351, and I am hoping with the repairs listed above that I will be able to fix this - assuming I can source the parts.
However when you remove the SC board from the TV circuit, unplugging the power connector, I get 8 flashes.
Does 8 flashes mean the SS board also has issues, or is that due to the SC board being removed entirely do you think?
Under the SC board, there were the telltale shorting marks on the chassis and also on the solder ground pads where the screws go. I have not taken off the SS board yet to check that.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Hi Hermann,
ReplyDeleterepair of TX-P42U30 with 30F131 was running for ~20min, then going off. IGBTs not shorted, but probably from Fake source (nobody can know this today). As my TTester showed only capacitor not IGBT, fake was more than likely. Do you know how fakes die out?
Vg,
Dieter
I don't think that there are any genuine 30F131 out there anymore, unless they are packaged in the original Panasonic plastic bag.
DeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteI received today some FGD4536 that were ordered as genuine from Fairchild. Confirmed on invoice. If you have a REALLY original one in stock, I would like to compare visually before using them, anyway.
BTW, to my above comment: TTester is a great tool, but not for IGBTs when threshold voltage is not significant below 5V. And this is not the case for these types.
Greets,
Dieter
Hello all,
ReplyDeleteMy plasma went into a coma at the weekend.
I need spare parts to repair it.
The TNPA5335 - AG is defective.
Who has spare parts for sale in the Munich area?
Or does anyone know an address where I can order usable parts.
I have basic knowledge in soldering, but help is welcome.
Thank you for your hints.
Kind regards
Tom