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2015-04-28

Panasonic TX-P42ST30E - TNPA5330 board defect - seven blinks and six blinks of death

The Panasonic Plasma 30 series (ST30, GT30, VT30) all suffer from a very silly bug: the ground screws of the SN (scan + buffer board) go loose and eventually produce sparks, which will kill a whole bunch of semi-conductors on the SN board and probably on the power supply board, too.

(In the meantime, I have analyzed this defect in more detail HERE)

The symptoms are 7 or 6 blinks of the standby LED. The service manual says:


A new SN board is prohibitively expensive. I did not find any under 230€ on eBay. In other models, Panasonic used to split the buffer board from the scan board. Here though, it is all in one and the buffers make it so expensive.

Luckily, there are repair kits on eBay tailored for this problem. I got one from GTV Watford in Great Britain. Including shipping it cost me 83€. The TV itself  was only 45€.

The following image shows the shot parts on the TNPA5330 SN board. The red marks are the parts covered by the repair kit, the yellow mark is a transistor, which is not included in the repair kit.


That's not all. Due to the diodes and transistors going short on the SN board, the power supply board blew a fuse and two FETs also died. See next image. For this, GTV offers another repair kit.


My brand new pre-heating plate and hot air gun finally got something to work on:


I covered the capacitors with capton tape and heated the board up to around 140°C. With the hot air gun set to 420°C the SMD-mounted large semi-conductors came off quickly and without a problem. For soldering, I used solder paste and the same temperature settings. It is fun to see the big thingies snap into place once the paste has reached its melting point.


Replacing the fuse and the FETs on the power supply:


After replacing the large diodes and transistors, I ran a test and still got 7 blinks. So I fitted the remaining two parts from the kit also. They are a switcher IC and a double transistor. This pair occurs in all four energy recovery or sustain circuits, respectively.



After I had used all the parts from the repair kit, the TV ran fine for a couple of minutes and then suddenly switched off again, this time with 6 blinks instead of 7 blinks! What was going on?

I checked all the scan and energy recovery circuits again and lo and behold, I found Q451 with a short between Gate and Collector. It is part of the RECOVERY-L section. Apparently, it had been already pre-damaged and finally broke during my first test run.


This particular transistor was not supplied by the repair kit. In foresight, I had ordered a working SS-Board on eBay, which is the little sister of the SN board and contains most of the same semi-conductors except for the expensive buffer chips. The SS boards are cheap. Mine was 30€. The SS board had two DG302 transistors on it and so I picked one from there.

In hindsight, it would have been cheaper to order two SS boards, which I think would cover even more than the necessary parts, instead of the repair kit.

This is what it looks like when one of the panel connectors is not seated properly. Thin horizontal lines all over the screen (the boxes are from the screen menu).


Those connectors are not so easy to seat. It takes some practice and I recommend using a magnifier glass to check that the little notches on the connectors are actually all the way in.

And now the Plasma does what it can do best: producing rich and beautiful colors:


It was quite some work this time:



To help with cooling, I glued small heatsinks on the large semiconductors and buffer chips. The heatsinks are not very powerful, but better than nothing at all. There is no space for large heatsinks, anyway.



A few words about the Panasonic service manual. The images for the boards and circuits are too small and not zoomable vector graphics and you can't see any of the small labels properly. Repairing a mainboard with this material is practically hopeless. The SN board is relatively simple and it did not matter. A mainboard is much more complex and you need all the fine details. Maybe there are copies around with better quality. I for sure did not find any.

The manuals from Sony and Philips which I have are much better. Personally, I would refrain from buying a defect Panasonic with a potential mainboard or logic board problem.

This TV is a keeper. It is missing DNLA features, but I will rather buy one of those Android quad-core devices with WiFi and HDMI, which have better performance and software on board than any of the Smart TVs out there.

Don't forget to improve the screws, folks! Replace the originals with new, longer screws with spring washers. Otherwise the same disaster might happen again.






68 comments:

  1. Hello Hermann!
    A few days ago my GT30E began to show blinking leds instead of beautiful images.
    I'm going to buy a kit for the TNPA5330.
    In order to make the "best fit" purchase i would like to know if you had to change all the FET red circled or not. On ebay infact, i found more than one kit each with a variable number of FET.

    ReplyDelete
  2. interesting...comments not working in Chrome...

    Hi Roberto,

    in my TV set all the FETs were dead, yes. I recommend doing measurements first. The FETs will show a short across at least two leads. The switcher IC and the double transistor can be tested in comparison to each other, there are at least four of them on the board.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hello Albert
    I followed your experience/suggestions in an "integral" way :)
    In other words, I ordered all the components indicated in your post (btw at the moment all of them are available on the net, included DG302 - Q451) and I substituted them into my "7 times blinking GT30E".
    When I turned on the TV, it functioned for 1 second or less, then it switched off and now it's blinking six times.
    I must to admit that I almost never read the service manual, and I'm seeing that at page SN-Board 2/6 are drawed some transistors apparently identically to Q16451. Do you think that any of them could cause the problem?
    Thank you for your attention

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hello Roberto,

    it is Hermann, not Albert :-)

    Well, you need to measure all the transistors. I cannot tell you which may cause 6 blinks, because I honestly don't understand the circuit in detail, let alone all the self-diagnostic stuff in it. I just measure components and change what is dodgy.

    If the large transistors are ok, you may want to check the pairs, which are identical to Q531, IC502. There are four of them or more scattered on the board. Q451 is also connected to one, maybe start there. It is a simple A-B measurement. I suggest you use the new parts as a reference.

    Good luck!

    ReplyDelete
  5. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  6. First of all, excuse me for the mistake about your name. I know your name is Hermann but for some mysterious reason my fingers have typed Albert :)
    My problem with the components is that I changed exactly all the ones reported in your post, so at the moment I haven't more new parts (but I still have the old ones!). I'll pay a price for my impatience combined with my lazyness.
    Anyway, I'll proceed to test the large transistors as they are on the board, then to an "ohmic" comparison between the pairs IC-Q that should be these:
    IC501-Q501: Q401-Q402-Q403
    IC502-Q531: Q441
    IC522-Q551: Q451
    IC521-Q521: Q421-Q422-Q423
    (I report them as future reference for other users)
    Thank you for your attention, James ;) :)

    ReplyDelete
  7. Hello Hermann,

    My name is Nick. I had the same problem, I followed your steps and now the TV is working again. I have just one question. how and with what did you glued the heatsinks to the transistors? On q 451 I glued the heatsink with loctite 401 (superglue), but I think this is not OK.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Hi Nick. I used thermal glue. Just browse eBay :-) Those glues initially have the consistency of thermal paste. After 10min or so they harden.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Hello again.
    Roberto, how is your tv? I forgot to say that I had 2 TNPA5330 boards, and one of them (the one in the TV) was damaged just the way Hermann's was, but the other (this was bought from a site as a good one?!) was damaged different. all those red circled transistors were ok, but some from others were dead. so... I took the transistors from this one and repaired my tv's boarad;
    So I guess... maybe you were in a different situation, and replaced what was not to replace...
    P.S. my TV is ok for the moment...

    ReplyDelete
  10. Hi
    I too have a plasma 50inch with a 6 blink problem.Originally it had 7 blinks but I replaced some blown fets and diodes as per usual. I tested with the buffer boards off and a jumper in place. The tv powered up with that and green led blinking so I deemed the sc board fixed. On reconnecting the buffer boards and switch back on there was a brief picture then a pop. I found a shorted dg302 on the sc board then. I've removed the device but I would think the tv should not still show 6 blinks anymore when powered up with the bad device removed. Before I buy another does anyone have any idea if it's a waste of time to replace it ?
    Thanks !

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi,

      your TV will blink until everything is 100% in order. A missing part is as bad as a shorted part. What you have experienced sounds identical to my story. I suggest you give the DG302 a try.

      Good luck!

      Delete
    2. Thanks for the reply. Replaced the dg302 but no difference. Out of ideas now with this one.

      Delete
    3. Sorry to hear that. The dg302 transistor might have killed it's driver transistors and control chip. As I described, these trios (DBGT transistor, driver transistor, control chip) appear a couple of times in the circuit.

      Delete
  11. I don't suppose you have part numbers for those chips ? I don't want to buy a kit with all the devices I don't need .

    Thanks
    Mike

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well, the numbers are:
      IC502 (and similar): BD8693FVM. That's the control IC.
      3Y (SMD Code) is a CPH5524-TL-E
      Both devices are easy to find, actually.
      You can find all this in the service manual, available at elektrotanya.com

      Delete
  12. Thank you very much ! very helpful.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Those two parts came in the post today. Tv is working finally :-)
    Thank you for your guidance Mr Schmidt.
    Best regards
    Mike

    ReplyDelete
  14. Sorry Hermann, jumped in with both feet before i found this writeup, apologies my friend, good reading,excellent photo's well done.

    ReplyDelete
  15. Hi Hermann

    I have some question would to ask you about the IC D869372 ,3Y1B1 and DG302. is it a necessary to change it? because I already changed all parts was mention as you as above and now my tv has 6 blinking instead of 7 blinking. what should I need to do? Thanks

    Regards
    Alven

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Alven,

      6 blinks sounds like it. Have you measured the DG302 for shorts (or near shorts)? All combinations of pins must show high resistance. If it has a short I would recommend to change at least the driver transistors in addition to the DG, and if that is not sufficient the control IC as well.

      Delete
  16. Hi Hermann

    I already measure the DG302 was not shorts circuit. it big possibility the Q531 and IC502 need to change it. how to measure this 2 item is bad conditions. thanks

    Alven

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If the DG has no short, the other components are most likely ok. However, it still can be defect without a short. Those are a little difficult to test because they don't behave like normal FETs. Look for "testing IGBT" on Google". Q531 can be compared to the other identical parts on the board. IC502 is not really testable.

      Delete
  17. Hello and thank you for your article ;-)

    I replaced all the components, but I have again the fuse and the 2 transistors of the power supply that have dropped.

    Do you have an idea ?

    Thank you very much and good day !

    Marc

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi,

      I don't know. So, the scan board blew up again, too? Have you used genuine transistors some stuff from China? Those are garbage, I have blogged about it. I recommend to substitute them with FGD4536, as I have described here: http://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.de/2017/01/panasonic-tx-p50gt30-7-blinks-fgd4536tm.html

      Delete
  18. Hello and thank you for your answer ;-)

    Then the sc board is not defective, only the 2 transistors and the fuse of the power supply board.

    The transistors of the SC board have been ordered from Aswo, so I think they are original.

    I do not know what else to do, it's a shame I will not throw this TV ...

    Thank you again and good Sunday

    Mark

    ReplyDelete
  19. Further up you mention non vector scalable manuals - this one is fully detailed so i hope it helps someone

    https://elektrotanya.com/panasonic_tc-p42gt30a_ch_gpf14d-a.pdf/download.html

    Steve

    ReplyDelete
  20. Hi Hermann,
    thank you very much for posting this "guide" to TX-P42ST30 fixing.
    My Plasma blew up some days ago, and thank to your post I'm going to try to repair it.

    At first, I just replaced the broken RJP30H2A. And obliviously wasn't enough to make TV works again.

    So I decided, due to the looooong and irritating shipping time, to buy and replace all the other components in one time.
    According to your other post, i bought

    6 x FGD4536 to replace RJP30H2A and 30F131
    1 x DAF30A
    2 x RF1501N
    1 x DG302
    2 x CPH5524 and 2 x BD8693 (for Q531 - IC502 pairs)
    2 x R6015

    A total of about 40 €!

    Hope that would be enough to make it work again!
    I'll keep you up to date with the results, if you want!

    And thanks again, for now.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You'll be allright. Be careful with the DG302! Where did you buy it? It can be substituted with the FGD as well.

      I have identified trusworthy sources: http://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.de/2017/03/replacement-of-discontinued-panasonic.html

      Delete
    2. I bought it from an Italian online store, like saying from an UNtrustworthy Cinese source...
      In fact I bought two more FGD4536 (8 in total) for that reason.

      Get ready to share your Paypal account! If my TV will works again, I'll offer you a coffe!

      Delete
  21. Hello,friend! To repair PANASONIC TX-PR42ST30 (chassis GPF14D-E ) .
    Was error 7.Repaired the PSU (R6015ANX,R6015ANX,UCC25600D ) .Replaced Q421,Q422?Q423 +Q401,Q402,Q403
    on the Board TNPA5330 . When feeding 220V green led flashes and then red 6 times . Measured the voltage
    on the C631 relative to the chassis - 90V .You write that should be 120V . Not working one of the DG302 ?
    What would you recommend to check ?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The measurement across C631 can be deceiving if your multimeter is not quick enough. 90V is not too low, thus it probably goes too high and you don't see it. The 42 inch model always requires a replacement of Q531 and IC502. Cannot see those on your list.

      Delete
    2. Q531 not suspicious ,but IC502 (determined using the oscilloscope today) does not work .Can't find information on BD8693FVM ,is it possible to replace BD8693MKO ?

      Delete
    3. Can't say, really. I don't know the difference between FVM and MKO.

      Delete
    4. Hello, friend ! I have a positive result:). Replaced Q451 and .... the machine started working .Now glued the radiator on Q451 .Tomorrow shall put on the run .I hope everything will be fine . PS Q451 was checked as the worker ! Thank you so much for your work ,very helpful article !!!

      Delete
  22. Hello!
    Did you use your hot air gun for the CPH IC's and the gate driver chips? They are so small that I found it difficult to stop them moving while heating, and also concerned about overheating (max op for the little driver is 150C).

    ReplyDelete
  23. Hello Hermann,

    I want you something to the Panasonic Tx-p42ut30e 12 flashing

    Sound SOS H board ask. is it necessary to change it? because

    I have already changed the power supply and still that

    Problem with sound my tv has no fan instead

    Sound 12 flashing. I also read in google, that can be the network part

    What do I have to do,? Thank you very much

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The service manual says that either the A-Board or the speakers are defect. If the speakers have no short you need to change the main board. I guess the amplifier chip IC4900 is dead or something is wrong with its 15V supply. As you have swapped the power supply already, the latter is not likely.

      Delete
  24. hello Hermann, thank you
    where can I order this, please have a link?
    When I turn on the TV, I have very bad sound, simply incomprehensible after about 3 to 5 minutes, that goes out, I try this time :-)
    Thank you very much

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That my friend you have to find out yourself :-)

      Delete
  25. I forgot something, I had also tried the same problem with headphones
    thank you again
    Have a nice day

    ReplyDelete
  26. Привет Германн !!! Спасибо тебе за большую статью в помощи найти виновников , я сделал 1 раз большую ошибку когда заменил все компонеты даже и не подумал что подгоревшие контакты оказались и у меня, сейчас опять меняю все заново , у меня так же телевизор проработал пару секунд и выбило опять транзисторы все из-за плохого контакта 5330 к панели плазмы , DG302 у меня не на коротком, возможно как то определить исправность DG302?

    ReplyDelete
  27. Германн можно вам вопрос ? Вы замени смотрю RF1501 он был у вас коротком замыкании ? я пока не стал нго менять , показания мультиметра у меня на нем на прозвонки 339 , какие у вас были проблемы с RF1501 вы его обвели красным на схеме ! Спасибо Герман

    ReplyDelete
  28. Anatoly, I am very sorry, but I don't speak Russian and Google Translator is too imprecise for those technical matters. I don't understand your questions.

    ReplyDelete
  29. RF1501 у вас был в коротком ?

    ReplyDelete
  30. Hi Hermann,

    I'd just like to say, thank you very much for this blog.
    My TV had the exact same problem and it felt like you were holding my hand through the repair :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That's sweet, thank you :-) Glad to help!

      Delete
  31. Tu est vrément un genie mec

    ReplyDelete
  32. Hi I have just used the reparation I got from eBay but I still have seven blinks any ideas what I have done wrong
    Carl

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I have written down everything I know here:
      https://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2017/04/panasonic-tnpa5330-sn-board-7-blink.html

      Delete
  33. Hello Hermann,
    first of all, congratulazion for your forum.
    My panasonic with TNPA5390 and TPA5330, was resumed from 7 blink led after replacing these components:

    TNPA5330
    Q421,Q422,Q423,Q401,Q402,Q403
    D401

    POWER SUPPLY TNPA5390
    Q300,Q301,F102

    After these change I got 6 LED blinking. After remplace the
    Q531,D421,IC502
    The TV was ON for a few hours now again 7 blinking LED.
    This times, no previous components are in fault/short.
    I noticed that on SN2 connector I do not have Hight voltage and Q300, Q301, F102 are OK. I have checked also the 5V (C561) and 15V (on TP82) near the connector SN20 and I read both.
    What you suggest ? Thanks and regards

    ReplyDelete
  34. hello I have a problem with my tnpa5330 card I changed all the dead transistors but the problem is that when I connect the plug the green diode of the sn card lights up directly whereas it should not thank you for help me

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Why should it not? It tells you that the scan voltage is present. I'm afraid I cannot say much more about this symptom - if it is one at all.

      Delete
  35. the card lights up while the others are not on. I had this problem on a tnpa5335 and it exploded

    ReplyDelete
  36. Hallo Hermann,
    ich schreibe jetzt mal in Deutsch, hoffe das ist ok.
    Auf dem geplanten Weg zum Recyclinghof habe ich einen TX-P42VT30E gerettet. Er dankt es mir mit 6 Blinks :-)

    Dank Deiner Vorarbeit würde ich jetzt IC502 und Q531 (Switcher IC & double transistor) tauschen, dazu noch sicherheitshalber Q451.

    Bei meinem Gerät hängen die Kühlkörper von Q441 und Q451 schon auf Halbmast. Ob da einfach die Temperatur zu hoch war oder schon jemand rumgedoktort hat - keine Ahnung. Welchen Kleber würdest Du aktuell empfehlen?

    Last but not least: Du bietest ja Austauschteile an, ich würde die lieber bei Dir als bei Ali bestellen. Wie kommen wir da zusammen?

    Vielen Dank für Deine Unterstützung, ich bin sehr zuversichtlich bald wieder ein Bild zu sehen.

    Grüße aus Nürnberg
    Klaus

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hallo Klaus,

      hast du die üblichen Verdächtigen alle durchgemessen? Insbesondere die DAF30 Diode? Ich habe noch keinen 42er gesehen, der nicht dort defekt war. Vielleicht hat auch jemand Chinesische Fakes eingebaut und danach den 6er kassiert. Geräte mit unbekannter Historie sind immer ein Risiko und können Kollateralschäden durch Basteleien haben.

      Als Kleber geht jeder Silikon-Wärmeleitkleber.

      Dass ich Austauschteile anbiete, ist allerdings ein Missverständnis. Angesichts der inzwischen sehr verschlechterten Versorgungslage behalte ich meine Reste für gelegentliche Reparaturen bei denen der Fall klar ist, und als Backup für meinen eigenen Plasma. Die 42er fass ich gar nicht mehr an.

      Grüße
      Hermann

      Delete
  37. Hallo Hermann,
    die Transis habe ich gecheckt, die sind alle ok (im Sinne von: kein Kurzschluß). Die DAF30 checke ich aber auch nochmal, schadet ja nicht.
    Mein Blick in die Glaskugel der Vergangenheit meint zu sehen, dass vor dem 6er das Gerät tadellos funktioniert hat. Ich werde den Vorbesitzer aber nochmal befragen.

    Wegen der Austauschteile: hatte das dann wohl falsch verstanden, kein Problem. Da findet sich schon was.

    Ich werde hier berichten wie es weitergeht - je nach Ersatzteilbeschaffung dauert das aber natürlich. Kennst Du sicher.

    Grüße
    Klaus

    ReplyDelete
  38. 1. Erkenntnis: Q451 hat Kurzschluss
    2. Erkenntnis: als Transis sind durchweg RJP63K2 verbaut. Ob die nun ab Werk so war oder doch jemand gebastelt hat - (noch) keine Ahnung. Muss aber ja mal gelaufen sein. Die sind in jedem Fall zu besorgen.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Das ist bestimmt nicht die Originalbestückung. Der Q451 ist ein DG302. Der RJP ist normal nur an einer Stelle Q661 verbaut. Jetzt ist die Frage, ob die Transis alle Originale oder Pfusch sind.

      Delete
    2. Ich tippe auf erfolgten Austausch - von wem auch immer. Die Löstellen sehen nicht allzu maschinell aus, aber auch nicht wirklich amateurhaft. Ich habe mal welche bestellt, dann sehen wir weiter.

      Delete
    3. Muss gestern blind oder nicht wach gewesen sein.
      Fakt: auf dem Board wurden reihenweise die Halbleiter getauscht.

      Unsere D421 (eigentlich DAF30) ist eine RF1501. Und die ist auch in Ordnung bei Messung im eingebauten Zustand.
      Q531 - der Doppeltransi - ist im Vergleich zu anderen auch ok.

      Bleibt also noch als primärer Unsicherheitskandidat IC502. Ich finde dazu auch kein Datenblatt, kann ich die Funktion irgendwie isoliert prüfen?

      P.S. habe mal versucht, direkt über meinen Panasonic-Kontakt an bessere Unterlagen zu kommen. Leider Fehlanzeige :-(

      Delete
    4. Au weia...
      Die RF kann man nehmen statt der DAF.
      Ich hab dier hier https://drive.google.com/file/d/1is2Dif7h3P-ZFinbLIDUEiSHJKHjS7Rz/view?usp=sharing
      ein Trainingsmanual für die Reparatur der Boards abgelegt. Da stehen Messungen für das IC501 drin in eingebautem Zustand. Das reißt es aber eigentlich nicht, ohne dass der Doppeltrans auch mit geht. Aber schauen schadet nie.

      Delete
    5. Ergänzung: Die Steuerung der IGBTs ist immer gleich. Heißt: per A-B-Vergleich mit einem anderen IC kannst du auch schauen, ob es sich identisch misst. Das muss es, ohne wenn und aber.

      Delete
    6. Hallo Hermann,
      wollte nur mal kurz Zwischenstand liefern.
      TV ist aktuell geparkt und ich überlege, wieviel Energie ich da noch reininvestiere. Aber solange die Kiste kein Brot futtert darf er im Keller stehen. Stay tuned if you like!
      Grüße
      Klaus

      Delete
  39. RJP63K2 waren/sind in repair kits enthalten. Das Manual panasonic_tc-p42gt30a_ch_gpf14d-a ist eigentlich erstklassig, auf jeden Fall voll zoombar.
    IC501/2 = C0ZBZ0001822 = (B)D8693 und eigentlich ein simpler Buffer, weil ja nur 2 der 8 Pins aktiv verwendet werden, plus Vdd und GND logischerweise. Aber wohl kundenspezifisches Design für Pana von Rohm.
    Gruß,
    Dieter

    ReplyDelete
  40. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  41. Всем привет. Спасибо за статью, благодаря ей мой телевизор ожил. Указанные детали заменены, помимо их также заменены IC16522, Q16551, R16451.

    ReplyDelete

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