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2017-06-19

Reading Philips TV logs with an USB-UART adapter

With my Philips TVs I never had the requirement to read the log, as they all had measurable faults or the Service Default Mode revealed everything I needed to know. In case of a two blinks error code, which points to the mainboard, or when the TV won't boot at all, it can be beneficial to peek into the log.

You need

  • An USB-UART Adapter. This device maps a serial  (UART) connection across USB to a serial port (COMx on Windows). Device drivers are required.
  • A terminal program, which can handle serial ports.

The hardware


There are various types of USB-UART adapters on the market (eBay or AliExpress). First I tried this type:

Those are garbage. They contain an illegal copy of a Prolific PL2303 Revision A chip, which is discontinued since 2012. Read HERE. The problem is that the latest Windows 8 & 10 driver won't work with it anymore. Some articles in the net say that Prolific has changed the device signature in their later revisions to lock out the copies. You need to install an older version of the driver. I wasted way too much time with this rubbish.

I opened mine up and the chip had no marking on it. Sure sign of a copy. Also, the USB plug already started to come off the board.

So I tried another one with the Silicon Laboratories CP2104 chip:


This one's legit. No driver problems, Windows found the driver itself and the device worked.

The software


On the PC you can use PuTTY. A more sophisticated program is RealTerm. It can record sessions, which is quite useful, and has more features than you'll ever need. Both are free.

The Android app Serial USB Terminal by Kai Morich also works fine. You can read the log on your tablet or phone quickly without a bulky laptop. Just put a micro USB adapter in front of the UART device.


The connection


Now this kept me busy for a while due to my own incompetence.

The UART / service socket on the TVs is a stereo 3.5inch type like for headphones. The connections are as follows:


Here is the rub: you need to cross RXD and TXD. Don't connect the RXD on the adapter with the RXD on the TV. Makes total sense once you understand it :-)

A schematic from a ComPair device manual put me on track:


And that's how I built the thing. I attached a 3.5 inch stereo socket to the adapter and used a stereo cable I had lying around:



First tests


I had a working 42PFL9803 sitting in my living room and I tested the device with it. To my surprise I could not get any useful log. The service manual says 38400bps 8N1. I configured everything accordingly and all I got was garbage. The TV sent data but it wasn't readable. I tried many bps setting with no luck. This TV fooled me for quite some time. I thought something was wrong with the UART adapter :-/ I think the older boards use a lower UART voltage level and won't work with this adapter.

Yesterday, I picked up a 32PFL9606 and with this one it worked flawlessly. 





Sweet! I can add one more diagnostic tool to my repertoire. I currently have a 46PFL8007 with the dreaded QFU chassis, which doesn't show any signs of life even though the standby voltage is good. It's not writing a log either. But that's the subject of an upcoming blog post once I have reprogrammed its boot EEPROM, which I suspect.

In the meantime, I glued it into a nice blue box:


49 comments:

  1. Well ,any progress on this subject?

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  2. 42PFL9803 maybe really accepts rs232 levels like my old dvdr I got to read out using rs232 on board directly.

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    Replies
    1. Yes, I also think it is a hardware issue. The 03 series ist just too old for this adapter. Well, for the dreaded QFU chassis it has proven to be very useful.

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  3. Did you try to flash the 256 byte spi ? I read some translated russian site where that provided to be the fix.

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    1. Yup! I fixed the sucker. Finding the right software was not easy though. I'll rewrite the post about the 46pfl8007 soon.

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  4. Did I just help you ? ;)
    I never picked up a qfu yet, but read about this SPI 256 byte issue that even the latest PUS range can have..

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    Replies
    1. Sorry to disappoint you :-) Had the SPI reflashed weeks ago and due to a problem with a flat cable it had no image. I've rewritten my post and explained everything.

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  5. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  6. Looking forward to your post about programming the boot EEPROM.
    I've picked up an 'EZP2013' EEPROM programmer for 8 euros on e-bay, which clearly helped me to diagnose a faulty EEPROM of my 32PFL3606.

    I was wrong by thinking that an empty EEPROM would work, apparently I need to preload it as you mentioned.
    Now the TV is giving me a blinking red error and I haven't mastered the art of reading the error code yet. which is why I've ordered another SSB...
    thanks for your great articles

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  7. FOR THIS CHASSIS YOU CAN PRE ORDER ONLY MEDIATEK BASED SSB BECOSE THE PROBLEM WITH THIS MODELS IS A FAILING SIGMA FUSION CPU ;)

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  8. First of all, I need to say that the contents on this blog are awesome: well laid down and very informative. Thanks for your effort! :)
    I'm trying to troubleshoot a 46PFL7007K/12 (QFU1.1E LA) that doesn't turn on anymore. All the voltages are fine but I get the two blinks pattern from the led a while after the tv set is connected to the wall outlet. I've tried to put it in MDM mode and there I get the 53 pattern.
    According to what I've found around, it means software error. I've tried to connect a pendrive with the official update and plug the tv set in the wall outlet but unfortunately it didn't help. I didn't even exepct something to happen because I'm confident it isn't searching for the software update but something like a bootloader, something much more low level...
    Then I've thought I could understand something more by connecting a serial interface and I've built one thanks to your advices. I've tested on another Philips (a 37PFL9604H/12) and there it works perfectly fine (apart from the fact that at 38400bps I got only garbage and I was forced to put the port speed at 115200bps to get a readable output) but on the one I'm trying to troubleshoot I get NOTHING, nothing at all, garbage neither.
    The serial seems completely dead like everything else. Maybe I need to put the tv set in MDM mode to get something from the serial? It makes sense but I haven't had the chance to try.
    Thanks in advance for your advices and have a good day! :)

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    Replies
    1. I was wondering... Should it be the bootloader, is it the M24C64-WDW6 to be reprogrammed? I'm taking a brief look to the service manual and it seems so or at least it seems the only eeprom on board but I can be mistaken about that: I've to find the time to look at it more carefully.

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    2. If there is no log at all, the boot program is corrupted. You can read all about this here: https://alpengeist-tvrepair.blogspot.com/2017/05/philips-46pfl8007-qfu11e-la-no-standby.html

      However, one thing is confusing me here. The error 52 is actually detected by the boot software according to the service manual. Therefore, you should see a log.

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    3. Hi and thanks for your reply! :) Thanks for pointing your other topic to me.
      The error is 53 but yours is certainly a typo... ;) Yours is exactly the same thought I've done and that's why I was wondering if entering SDM (not MDM, another typo this time by me!) was needed to get some output on the serial from a bricked tv set.
      I'll try to do it ASAP. Thanks again and have a good day! :)

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    4. The SDM only helps if the TV enters certain protection states or if you like to read out the level 2 error (here: the 53). It does not magically revive a bricked device which has a software problem. I think, in your case either the boot SPI Eeeprom or the NVRAM is broken. Or the processor broke some solder balls. You definitely need a infrared remote to continue the repair. A cheap copy for 10$ does the job here.

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    5. Hi and thanks for your advice. Please excuse me for not replying before but I couldn't.
      I've never thought SDM could help me with anyyhing more than pinpointing the kind of error, certainly not resolving anything. I think the processor is at fault otherwise I should get something on the serial interface though, as you, I'm puzzled about how a faulty CPU could produce even the blinking pattern...
      In the meantime, I've tried with another television (a Philips 37PFL6007K/12 which by what I've understood is almost the same family and with EXACTLY the same symptoms, 2 blinks in normal mode, 53 in SDM mode) but this time with the same setup and the same settings, I've got an output on the serial:

      95 00 unit:
      12:45:47.695
      12:45:47.701
      12:45:47.701 waiting ECC result ready
      12:45:47.701 00 bits error in the unit.
      12:45:47.701 01 unit:
      12:45:47.701
      12:45:47.708
      12:45:47.708 waiting ECC result ready
      12:45:47.708 00 bits error in the unit.
      12:45:47.708 02 unit:
      12:45:47.708
      12:45:47.714
      12:45:47.714 waiting ECC result ready
      12:45:47.714 00 bits error in the unit.
      12:45:47.714 03 unit:
      12:45:47.714
      12:45:47.720
      12:45:47.720 waiting ECC result ready
      12:45:47.720 00 bits error in the unit.
      12:45:47.720
      12:45:47.734 Hashed data:
      12:45:47.734 0xB5035438 42 4C 2B 00 26 48 C9 03 82 F2 0B 00 26 48 3E 01
      12:45:47.734 nand.c:nand_readwithinpage

      a similar pattern repeating a lot of times with only the memory addresses and unit # changing.
      I don't understand anything out of it. It seems something like an ECC error but I'm not certain about that. This time the serial talks at least, not a great deal cause I don't understand what it's saying! ;)
      What about the remote? Is there a post on your blog where you talk about it? I've read elsewhere about a Philips yellow remote (I may be mistaken) but I need to check again. Thanks for everything and have a good day!

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    6. About the remote: a simple IR does the job. You just need the OK or DOWN key. The original two-sided is useless when the TV doesn't boot up because the software for it is not loaded.

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    7. Hello again. I suppose the remote should work on the right frequency for the philips, not just any. By the way, I don't know what to do with OK and DOWN keys. I would need to inform myself.
      What about the serial output I've posted? Is a nonsense for you too or have you seen anything similar in the past?

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    8. I was wondering if the remote from the 37PFL9604H/12 could be useful... I think so because it should be a simple IR remote but I don't know...

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    9. Please see my latest Philips repair blogpost about the ok and down keys. The remote from the 04 series should fit.
      As for your log, I cannot see anything which helps with the diagnose.

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    10. Hola Guy: ya probaste encender el aparato presionando en el teclado del tv volumen - y canal - y conectar la clavija a la c.a. suerte con este truco

      Delete
  9. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  10. Hello again. First of all please excuse me if I haven't given any update before but I couldn't make the verification with the remote before. Bad news though: both with the 37PFL6007K/12 (the one which gives the useless output above on the serial interface) and the 46PFL7007K/12 (the one which seems completely dead, no serial output in spite of the 53 level 2 pattern as the other one) no signs of life on the display (by what I've understood it should light up with a service menu or something similar, shouldn't it?), just the red light blinking to the pression of the key on the remote, both with OK and arrow down.
    Do you think I should give up on these two?

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  11. Hard to say, those QFU devices have so many trouble spots. Both probably needs a new SPI boot ROM or a processor reflow. If the OK or DOWN key trick doesn't work, there is something seriously wrong. From my experience a NAND flash failure at least allows me to get to the recovery program.

    These Philips need investment in time and tools if you like to get to the core of the problems. Basically, you need two types of flash programmers and a BGA rework station to takle the most common issues. I am considering buying a BGA station because this type of repair is becoming more common. It's another big piece of expensive equipment standing around most of the time, though.

    It's up to you :-)

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  12. Thanks for your time as always. I would be honest: I've bought these two tv sets for parts (in two separate moments, one more or less six months prior the other) for me because I liked them but couldn't afford buying them used so I've tried, even because (I have to say) I really enjoy fixing things (I do it even for friends when I can do it in a safe way and I'm absolutely certain of what I'm doing) so it isn't my work, I haven't the necessary insight and last but not least the funds to afford expensive tools.
    If I had known this family of devices was so prone to motherboard issues, I hadn't wasted my money but I have learnt something at least...
    My idea is that the 46PFL has the CPU deballed (no signs of life at all, no serial, nothing apart from the led) though I wouldn't ever understand how a deballed CPU could produce a diagnostic pattern like it does while the 37PFL could have something less severe like an SPI boot ROM failure. My idea is to give up on the first one (though it is a real pity as it is a wonderful tv set) and try to do something on the latter. Is it anything I could try with the low resources I have and could you give me some advices on what to do or do I have to give up on this one too?
    I've read you've done something similar (just to know the problem lied elsewhere) and the main problem was finding the right image to program (apart from having the right programmer to flash it and this could be expensive).
    I've also thought about buying replacement SSBs but they couldn't be found anywhere and I'm condident that even if I could find them their price would make everything unaffordable so I don't see much options.
    Have a good day! :)

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  13. SSBs for the QFU chassis are rare. They all break sooner or later, thus buying a used board will not make you happy for long. The processor chip are actually two processors in one. The standby proc and the main proc. The stdby might work and fail to start the main. That's the 2-53 blink.

    I am pretty sure that the 37 also has some flaw around the proc or the flash chips. They all do, some way or the other. Without the proper (costly) tools you won't have luck.

    The QFU series Philips are no easy fix.

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  14. VERY GOOD VERY GOOD ?????

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  15. Salve ho un programmatore FT 2232 , posso usarlo per diagnosticare Philips 55PFL8007K12 .

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    Replies
    1. Non so. Non conosco questo programmatore.

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  16. Danke für die Anleitung. Hatte mich mal in das Service Manual eingelesen. Bei meinem defekten 55PUS8809/12 (Bootloop bis zum Philips Logo) habe ich jetzt auch eine Verbindung mit UART hergestellt über Putty, jedoch zeigt er mir teils wirre Zeichen an:
    ▒et ▒cpu ▒o!127=mv
    seu!▒koze to 1175mv▒▒▒▒▒▒1▒▒5!m▒/JMkosu!▒{omcw:03▒▒oHlmmح
    set ▒core to ▒5▒1mv
    flesh_ts_init(i`▒uccess.

    Die "Übersetzung" hab ich auf UTF-8 gestellt, mit anderen habe ich keinen Erfolg.
    Mit der oben genannten App und den Einstellungen der Übertragung bekomme ich Überhaupt nichts brauchbares heraus. Was kann ich da tun? Oder habe ich eine Übertragungsstörung?

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    1. So, der Fehler wurde gefunden. Hab mir nochmal den Schaltplan angeschaut, da sind ja 5,1V Z-Dioden drin, also die Pegel auf 5V umgestellt und siehe da es funktioniert jetzt einwandfrei. Hab mir den Log Mal angeschaut, letztendlich steht da drinn: "FATAL ERROR! There is no bootable image on this machine!".
      Irgendwann hören die Bootloops auch auf und er gibt nur noch bescheid das der Soc am leben ist un die Temperatur, aber das Philips Logo bleibt da.

      Blöd nur das ich mit dem Kreuzschalter nach unten drücken nicht ins Recovery komme. Was kann ich jetzt noch tun? Über Ethernet oder USB bekomme ich ja mit ADB auch keine Verbindung hin.

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    2. Die PUS Serie hat eine andere Architektur als die PFL/QFU Serie. Kenn ich mich leider nicht aus.

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    3. Ah okay, alles klar. Hab im Log noch folgendes gefunden:
      "recovery partition image is not proper !!!"
      Demnach ist hier nichts mehr zu machen.

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    4. Autsch, ja, hier ist offenbar das ganze Flash ROM kaputt. Das bekommt man nicht wieder hergestellt. Neues Main ist die einzige Rettung.

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  17. Hello again Hermann! :) I'm very glad to be here reading and writing again after so much time has unfortunately passed. As I was writing just some minutes ago elsewhere, I've been away for long and, apart from a successful repair for a friend, everything is exactly like it was almost a year ago.
    The only news are that I've bought a second 46PFL7007K/12 to troubleshoot the first one (quite expensive way, I know but it was my last resort: I'm not as good as you unfortunately). On the first one, the panel is fine as the PSU and I believe all the rest apart from the motherboard. Also the motherboard from the second certainly has developed (or is developing) a similar fault: with both the PSUs the set stays on for seconds to a couple of minutes then the image goes away and I start to see a greysh square shadow with a quarter of the screen height moving horizontally very fast on the screen, nothing else.
    It is certainly an overheating issue and I was thinking about renewing the thermal paste on the ceramic heatsink (and maybe adding a fan) but it seems glued. I didn't expect it as the heatsink also has plastic retaining clips so I don't see the point with glueing it but it seems so.
    Do you know a reliable way to remove it? I've also tried with some dental floss but to no avail unfortunately... What's certain is that I'm not going to pull hard! ;)
    Just a last thing. I've some motherboards lying around (the ones for the tv sets I've talked about here so one for a 46PFL7007K/12 and the other for a 37" model of the same family I don't recall in this moment) and they're beyond my knowledge and skills: would you like to take a look at them? I'm talking about a gift, I don't want nothing nor I want them back: I'd just like to know the results (if any and if you want to take a look at them). In my hands they're just wasted, in yours they could certainly be in a better place! ;)
    Thanks as always and have a good day! :)

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  18. The other motherboard is for a 37PFL6007K/12, I've forgotten I had written about it too above...

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  19. Just a side note. I've obviously tried to heat the heatsink up: it was almost untouchable but still stiff in its position without the minimal sign of loosening... I don't know.

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    1. Geez, you keep them coming :-D My reliable procedure for removing those suckers is to wear gloves and fire a heatgun until the pad, which sits between the sink and the CPU, finally gives way by gently twisting the sink (no pulling!). They all come off, trust me. It must be around 80°C or so. Too hot to touch with bare hands.

      As for the Philips xxx7 & xxx8 motherboards: I gave up on them and came to the conclusion that it is the CPU itself, not the soldering. You can try the following:

      - Remove the heatsink
      - Wrap all plastic parts and the electrolytic caps in tin foil.
      - Preheat(!) an oven to 215°C
      - Put the board into the oven for 5-7 Minutes. If some smoke appears, that's actually good (burning flux) and a sign to end the session.
      - Let the board cool down *slowly* (open oven and let it sit for a while)
      - Test the cool board quickly. If TV boots, switch it of immediately and glue the sink on the CPU with thermal glue - or order some adhesive pads.
      In case it doesn't: trash it.

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    2. I have a 55PFL700K/12 and the TV seemed to work after this. All lights went on but upon turning it on it failed again. Now it's back to blinking twice again. It seems kind of wasteful to trash this big TV because of a dead CPU.

      Delete
  20. Hi,

    how can I find out the voltage of the UART signals?

    Alex

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  21. I have a problem with 40hfl5008d/12
    Won't turn on. LED is reacting on remote but won't power on. Can You help how to "reset" tv. Is possible via uart cable to do it?

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    Replies
    1. With UART you can only read the log, it does not accept any commands that you could type into the terminal.

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    2. do U have any idea what can be wrong with this TV? friend of mine mix something in service menu ( is hotel tv ) and now after rebooting does not work. Just reacting on pushing buttons on a tv or remote ( LED is blinking ) but won't turn on.

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  22. A todos los amigos y colegas de esta linda profesión así como los aficionados , les hago mención que casi todos los modelos de philips encienden con una combinación de botones en el caso particular de la pfl5322/d y otros muchos modelos mas es presionando el botón vol- y ch- juntos y conectar el toma corriente , y ya encendida y trabajando es mas fácil diagnosticar o cargar software , espero les sirva este comentario por su atención gracias

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    Replies
    1. This helps in cases the firmware is corrupted. If anything else is broken the log is the way to go.

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